Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

-B-

Nice installation.

Tell me, how did you get rid of the Pioneer logo and copyright information on the start-up splash page? I've got an AVIC-Z3 in my MY02 Targa. I up loaded a Porsche logo similar to yours but it just serves as a background to the Pioneer logo.

If you cleared the Pioneer logo from the unit, please share the steps you took.....preferably in terms an analog man can understand.

Thanks,

Bill

Bill,

I'm not sure why you are still getting the Pioneer information. I didn't do anything special other than to change the background from the SD card, exactly per the prompts on the HU. I don't get any sort of Pioneer information on mine. Can you take a picture of yours booting up, and post it?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

  • Replies 281
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Well, I have used many DIY & it's about that time to give back. So without any further delay, here you go...

Posted Images

Just installed the Z110BT in my 2002 C4S with Bose. Since this seems to be the reference thread, I'll post comments here instead of on the 996 forum...

dbnichols' and others' observation about there being no good way to securely mount the cage applies to the Euromotorspeed kit as well. There is a plastic ridge on the sides, but none on the top and bottom. After looking around for suitable spacing material, I found that the top and bottom bars of the CCU bezel are the right size and center the cage perfectly. The bars are also the right depth to bend the metal mounting tabs around for a tight and secure fit.

The gaps:

996_avic1.jpg

The plastic bars glued in place:

996_avic2.jpg

The final fit:

996_avic3.jpg

Thanks to dbnichols for the splash screen.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job! And you're welcome for the splash screen.

Just installed the Z110BT in my 2002 C4S with Bose. Since this seems to be the reference thread, I'll post comments here instead of on the 996 forum...

dbnichols' and others' observation about there being no good way to securely mount the cage applies to the Euromotorspeed kit as well. There is a plastic ridge on the sides, but none on the top and bottom. After looking around for suitable spacing material, I found that the top and bottom bars of the CCU bezel are the right size and center the cage perfectly. The bars are also the right depth to bend the metal mounting tabs around for a tight and secure fit.

The gaps:

996_avic1.jpg

The plastic bars glued in place:

996_avic2.jpg

The final fit:

996_avic3.jpg

Thanks to dbnichols for the splash screen.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

A couple things I wanted to clear up and hopefully will make life much easier for folks who install our kits in the future. We've included a cage sleeve for quite a while now with our kits, and it is usually already slid onto the cage for buyers. I guess it would help to understand how it works right...as it is not in our DIY which was based on the very first install we did on my '00 Boxster.

The purpose of the cage sleeve is to create a lip on all sides of the cage (the sides, top and bottom). This lip stops the cage from falling through the factory opening, and sits flush to the factory opening. This effortlessly allows you to set the depth and height of the cage, so that you don't need to do any measuring like in the original DIY.

Anyhow, I have included some photos to show how everything comes together...in pictures of course! Just a little preface, this was my Saturday afternoon project converting the '00 Boxster radio surround area to the 03-04 version with the thin cup holder option. The install is complete and it looks awesome and I love my new cup holder, I just have to clean up my car and I'll have some pictures to show in the weeks to come.

Just installed the Z110BT in my 2002 C4S with Bose. Since this seems to be the reference thread, I'll post comments here instead of on the 996 forum...

dbnichols' and others' observation about there being no good way to securely mount the cage applies to the Euromotorspeed kit as well. There is a plastic ridge on the sides, but none on the top and bottom. After looking around for suitable spacing material, I found that the top and bottom bars of the CCU bezel are the right size and center the cage perfectly. The bars are also the right depth to bend the metal mounting tabs around for a tight and secure fit.

The gaps:

996_avic1.jpg

The plastic bars glued in place:

996_avic2.jpg

The final fit:

996_avic3.jpg

Thanks to dbnichols for the splash screen.

post-25824-1252808466_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808478_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808492_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808507_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808519_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808553_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808566_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808578_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1252808589_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

I have purchased an older version kit from you before and would like to upgrade. Can you sell me only the following parts:

# High Grade Aluminum Bezel - Powder coated in a factory textured finish (NOT PIANO BLACK)

# Custom Support Bracket

# 2-Din Housing (cage sleeve) & Housing

# Custom Porsche 2-Din Housing (cage sleeve) Setter

I have sent the same question to your ebay post but I have received no reply.

Please note that my car is a MY02 911 Turbo originally with a 2-DIN slot already.

Best regards,

Luis Alves

Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the newer version of the kit, that has the thin sheet metal surround (setter?). There were no instructions included but I got the general idea after trial and error fitting it a few times.

It does not work as illustrated. Two major issues:

1) The cage is not securely located in the opening. The setter does not make up for the fact that there is not enough plastic to support the cage. I think my photo shows that pretty clearly. Bending a few tabs (which need customizing/trimming by the way) around the small bit of side plastic still allows quite a bit of up and down motion of the cage.

2) The depth, which is fixed when using the setter, is wrong. I put the whole **** thing together another time, and discovered that the trim wouldn't fit since the front of the head unit stuck out a couple of mm too far. I double checked it, and the setter was perfectly flush with the plastic. I even tried dremeling away a bit of the plastic, but once I realized I would have to cut away a precise amount of the skimpy remaining plastic to make it fit and keep it level--thereby making the installation even less stable--I removed the setter and added the plastic bars, which positioned the cage perfectly and securely on all three axes.

And about the tabs--I have to say that trimming, bending, unbending, adjusting and rebending soft metal around the small remaining strips of plastic is a very kludgy way of securely mounting the cage. It's clear that there are significant differences between the Boxster, 996 (and for Luis, I'm sure the double DIN 996 as well).

What would be best is a truely fitted, drop-in solution.

Perhaps the Porsche PCM version of the plastic support frame is a better starting place?

Perhaps you should provide a fitted plastic spacer that takes up the gap between the metal sleeve and the plastic support frame? That might allow enough depth and area for a couple of holes so the D-I-Yer could screw it together and ensure precise fitment.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
I got the newer version of the kit, that has the thin sheet metal surround (setter?). There were no instructions included but I got the general idea after trial and error fitting it a few times.

It does not work as illustrated. Two major issues:

1) The cage is not securely located in the opening. The setter does not make up for the fact that there is not enough plastic to support the cage. I think my photo shows that pretty clearly. Bending a few tabs (which need customizing/trimming by the way) around the small bit of side plastic still allows quite a bit of up and down motion of the cage.

2) The depth, which is fixed when using the setter, is wrong. I put the whole **** thing together another time, and discovered that the trim wouldn't fit since the front of the head unit stuck out a couple of mm too far. I double checked it, and the setter was perfectly flush with the plastic. I even tried dremeling away a bit of the plastic, but once I realized I would have to cut away a precise amount of the skimpy remaining plastic to make it fit and keep it level--thereby making the installation even less stable--I removed the setter and added the plastic bars, which positioned the cage perfectly and securely on all three axes.

And about the tabs--I have to say that trimming, bending, unbending, adjusting and rebending soft metal around the small remaining strips of plastic is a very kludgy way of securely mounting the cage. It's clear that there are significant differences between the Boxster, 996 (and for Luis, I'm sure the double DIN 996 as well).

What would be best is a truely fitted, drop-in solution.

Perhaps the Porsche PCM version of the plastic support frame is a better starting place?

Perhaps you should provide a fitted plastic spacer that takes up the gap between the metal sleeve and the plastic support frame? That might allow enough depth and area for a couple of holes so the D-I-Yer could screw it together and ensure precise fitment.

Has everyone with a 996 found the above to be true?

I just bought one - waiting for it to arrive. Should I toss the "setter" and use the plastic bars?

If I toss the setter how do I screw the HU in?

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
Has everyone with a 996 found the above to be true?

I just bought one - waiting for it to arrive. Should I toss the "setter" and use the plastic bars?

If I toss the setter how do I screw the HU in?

Thanks

There is no difference between the 986 and 996 in this regard. Only model year differences, and w/wo nav. On my 99 the setter worked as advertised - centered the cage both horizontal, vertical and to the correct depth. Made the whole process very easy. This was for a Kenwood HU.

I did have to bend out a lot of taps on the cage to get it to secure to the frame, though. Using the plastic bars is probably a good idea even when using the setter.

Atle

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

I installed this kit on a double din AVIC unit couple of weeks ago.

My car is a Mk2 C4 996 PRE-MOST w/Bose.

IT WORKED PERFECTLY.

Wiring = 10 mins

Trim removal = 30 mins

AC control module re routing = 30 mins

Microphone wiring = 5 mins

Nav antenna install = 15 mins

Installing cage, setter etc = 10 mins

Installing unit = 10 mins

Putting everything back = 30 mins

Putting on beautiful trim plate that came with this kit = 5 mins

I made 3 phone calls and exchanged 3 emails with Troi - who I believe is the owner of Eurospeedmotors

UNBELIEVABLY helpful. Excellent support.

My wife couldn't believe the look and finish.

Also btw, I have confirmed (as others have as well) the stock headunit from Becker is horrible.

Using all stock bose amp and speakers with my new headunit, everything has 'woken up'.

ONE note: if you have 02 996 w/ factory cupholder, ditch the heat shield that comes with the kit. It won't fit. The cupholder is on a metal frame and performs the role of the heatshield.

post-49722-1258114742_thumb.jpg

post-49722-1258114754_thumb.jpg

post-49722-1258114769_thumb.jpg

post-49722-1258114781_thumb.jpg

post-49722-1258115144_thumb.jpg

Edited by roadsession
Link to post
Share on other sites

Greetings everyone! We hope everyone had a great weekend!!! Well, after a lot of reviews from our customers, we've been taking notes & decided 3 months ago to make a few enhancements to our 9X7 2-Din Kit. Our Version 2 kit was finally completed as of just late last week. We think some of modifications we've made will aid the efficiency of the overall installation of our kits. We posted images to illustrate the modifications and its function(s). Check out the link below and tell us what you think, we would love to get some feedback (good or bad :huh: ). Again, thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread and many others on Renntech.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...#ht_2045wt_1167

For those of you with the Bose set up, we will have an upgraded kit which includes an additional harness adapter for use with an aftermarket amp or other various set ups using resistors. The adapter will allow you to connect to the factory speaker wire harness without any need to cut, splice or wire tap these wires at all. Attached are a few pictures of the adapter and the vehicle's speaker wire harness that plugs into it. We'll have these adapters solddered with the appropriate factory matched wires in the near future but for the time being they will provided as shown.

Sincerely yours,

Trieullionaire

Euro MotorSpeed

:drive:

post-25824-1258334003_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1258334022_thumb.jpg

post-25824-1258334038_thumb.jpg

Edited by trieullionaire
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Hi,

I bought the bezel for my car (Id already installed the unit when I saw this thread). The bezel looks great but my head unit's face is larger than the aperture in the bezel. Have you any tips for cutting it?

Thanks

Andrew

Hi Andrew,

I am assuming you had purchased one of our powder coated aluminum bezels. Just out of curiosity what brand and model head unit did you purchase, as we have rarely ever come across this issue it would be helpful to know. As for cutting the bezel, that will be a huge bear even for us to have it custom cut. You may be better off using the MDF material to fabricate a bezel to the specs of your head unit in this instance. You can just use the aluminum bezel as a template for the outer dimension to make life a bit easier.

If you go the MDF route, just email, call or PM us should you want to return the bezel you had purchased. We have a 30 day return policy for unused components, so that you're not stuck with an item you can't use.

Happy holidays!

-Trieullionaire

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi,

I bought the bezel for my car (Id already installed the unit when I saw this thread). The bezel looks great but my head unit's face is larger than the aperture in the bezel. Have you any tips for cutting it?

Thanks

Andrew

Hi Andrew,

I am assuming you had purchased one of our powder coated aluminum bezels. Just out of curiosity what brand and model head unit did you purchase, as we have rarely ever come across this issue it would be helpful to know. As for cutting the bezel, that will be a huge bear even for us to have it custom cut. You may be better off using the MDF material to fabricate a bezel to the specs of your head unit in this instance. You can just use the aluminum bezel as a template for the outer dimension to make life a bit easier.

If you go the MDF route, just email, call or PM us should you want to return the bezel you had purchased. We have a 30 day return policy for unused components, so that you're not stuck with an item you can't use.

Happy holidays!

-Trieullionaire

Hi, and happy holidays to you too.

Yes its a powder coated aluminium bezel. As a product however it is great and Id love it to fit. The head unit is a generic double din unit from China chosen for the matching orange lights and absence of brand markings (its very good I have to say).

The bezel is almost perfect width-wise although very slightly too small. A little sanding of the lower, invisible, edge of the head unit should sort that out without having to touch the side of the aperture of the bezel.

The vertical gap however is roughly 5mm (1/5 inch) too small. The finish of your bezel is excellent and Im keen to use it if the piece can be cut down a little on the lower edge. I have thought about drilling the lower corners and jigsawing the bezel with an aluminium cutting blade. The aluminium of the bezel is 4mm thick. Is this method realistic in your view? (or anyone else's view for that matter). Im fairly handy.

If it is I would give it a go - although the consequences are obvious if it goes wrong. Depending on the answers I might have to (very reluctantly) take you up on your return offer and fabricate one myself.

Andrew

Edited by AndrewM
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't believe you'll be able to get good lOEM ooking results with any sort of manual tool. If you have access to a milling machine and to someone who knows how to operate it, then yeah, it is more than feasible with excellent results. Otherwise forget about it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't believe you'll be able to get good lOEM ooking results with any sort of manual tool. If you have access to a milling machine and to someone who knows how to operate it, then yeah, it is more than feasible with excellent results. Otherwise forget about it.

I think on balance that's probably right. Just too specialist an adaptation.

With great reluctance Treu I fear Ill have to return. Heartily endorse the quality of the product though.

Edited by AndrewM
Link to post
Share on other sites
No problem at all, looking forward to see some interior shots once you figure out a solution that works best for you. Thanks for the positive feedback as well.

Cheers!

Will post them for you in the near future once completed. I spent a few hours yesterday fine crafting one from laminate. Not a bad job if I say so myself and a perfect fit. However - not as perfectly edged as your own piece, texture does not match the rest of the console and Ive yet to spray it. So colour may need some work.

Thanks for your kind offer. Will forward it to you in the next few days though the Christmas post may well mean its the New Year before it arrives. Ive also posted some links to this thread on a UK 911 site so hopefully you may get some extra business. It might be an idea to put the measurements of the aperture on the advertisement so those using head units other than the tried and tested ones can check for fit.

Thanks again

Andrew

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

Just completed my refinish of my Clarion MAX983HD install, which I originally did in 2008. When I saw the upgraded 2-DIN kit I decided to modify my install to take the new powder coated bezel.

Since my car was a PCM1 car, the 2-DIN aperture was not centered in the space available and I couldn't use the previous piano black bezel. I used a mix of the Clarion supplied thin bezel and a strip of Trieullionaire's bezel. The result was less than satisfying, so I bought part of the new kit: the bezel and the cage.

The cage itself is a Pioneer product and is the best I've seen, miles ahead of what I had previously (Clarion Universal kit). It fits, slides and looks way, way better.

That said, I had to cut quite a bit of plastic to fit the cage and setter, since the aperture was not centered. The setter was extremely useful in establishing what to cut, thank you! I installed the setter and the cage and reinforced the lower area with Milliput epoxy.

After installation of the assembly, I slid the HU in just beautifully snug. Then I found that the bezel was a bit too snug.... When I opened the motorised front panel, it either spit the bezel out or just couldn't close...

Took the bezel to my Proxxon milling machine and cut 1.5 mm off the lower strip and voila, perfect! I'll post a couple of photos when I shoot them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Andrew - I bought trieu's piano black trim for my Pioneer. It is very nice in the high-gloss black, but I kept thinking it would look nicer in a satin finish to match the surrounding plastic. I had some vinyl trim tape I bought on eBay for another job, so I took out the bezel, and applied it to the opposite side. The tape wasn't wide enough to do it in one piece, so I did it in two, putting a small gap to match the line in the dash. Trieu had supplied two logo stickers, so I put one on this side too. Now it's reversible if I get fed up!

This is where I got the tape, but I see they now do it in a 6" width: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Self-Adhesive-Black-...emZ360214872974

It might be better than you trying to paint yours.

post-4000-1260828786_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys Ive fabricated my own unit and sprayed it matt black. Looks very well. Am going to alter the cage though to make it more flush to the dash (the head unit protrudes a little at the moment). It may need some slight widening to allow for opening and closing. The 'static' fit is very good. Colour match is actually very good.

Will post pics when complete.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
One question.

This kit is valid to a 986 of 1998 with pcm installed.

Because I see in the diy That there is to cut some pieces, but in models with pcm haven´t it

?¿?¿

Hi Demiano,

It will work for a 1998 986 w/ PCM set up as well.

Happy New Year!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Everyone,

Just completed an install of a Pioneer P3100DVD in my 2002 996C4 Cab. A couple slight differences than installing an AVIC so I thought I would post in case anyone has any questions about installing this particular model using the Euro kit. (thanks trieullionaire!)

This is the only thread I needed to get the HU in, up, and running flawlessly, thanks to everyone who has contributed to the board.

My install was basic, I did not add BT or SAT which are add-ons to this model. I now have full iPod control w/video, DVD video and all the other basics.

The unit itself is a huge upgrade from the Becker. Left everything else stock and it sounds multiple times better. I thought the speakers were weak but not after upgrading the HU!

A couple of differences in the 3100 vs. the AVIC models:

-To bypass you cannot just ground the parking brake wire like other HUs. The two solutions are to install a simple two line switch (run the parking brake wire to it and ground the other one - this is the method I did) Or you can use a 5 prong relay switch (there is a youtube video on how to do this - a little longer to create but no need to flick the switch to start the video!)

-The 3100 doesn't have rca jacks for the speakers, you have to clip off the rca jacks on the euro it and manually connect)

-No need for the heat shield on a 2002 996. The cupholder has a metal base. (saw this on a post here before I installed)

Pretty straightforward install, my only grief was moving the wires for the HVAC down to the lower shelf (not much space in there - but it works and fits great)

If anyone has any trouble with this particular AV unit, let me now!

Warm regards,

Larry

:renntech:

post-46592-1263770395_thumb.jpg

post-46592-1263770410_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.