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mhall2kbox

CV Boot Replacement

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I have a 2000 Boxster S 6 speed with 40K miles and noticed the passenger side rear cv boot is split open. There's not much grease showing in the under carriage so I'm guessing this recently occurred. How difficult would it be to replace this myself?

thanks, mike

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It doesn't appear to be a trivial task - search this forum for "cv joint" (in quotes to exceed the three-letter minimum).

I just got a $845 estimate from the dealer to replace mine. I priced out the parts at about $200 for the boots, clamps, and grease.

Good luck

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I have a 2000 Boxster S 6 speed with 40K miles and noticed the passenger side rear cv boot is split open. There's not much grease showing in the under carriage so I'm guessing this recently occurred. How difficult would it be to replace this myself?

thanks, mike

I just had the same thing happen to my 2002 S. Only one had torn, but the other 3 were very hard. I have learned that the CV Boot is a vary common failure on the 6 speed transmissions because of the angle of the axles.

I toyed with doing it myself, but decided to price it out as well.

I have a good Indie shop who charged me $200 for labor for each axle. I provided the parts since I had already ordered them thinking I would do this myself. I ordered from Vertex.com. They had a boot kit (boot, clamp & grease) for about $10 each and if you need the CV joint as well it was $85 (I did not need the joint).

So total for the replacement of all 4 boots was $440. This was worth it for me after doing some research and realizing all the work that was involved.

Hope this helps!

Colin

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I thought someone had found some after market split boot kits for these things. I wwas alweays a little leary about the concept in that they might throw the axles out of balance, but they've been around for a good long time...

Regards, PK

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I thought someone had found some after market split boot kits for these things. I wwas alweays a little leary about the concept in that they might throw the axles out of balance, but they've been around for a good long time...

Regards, PK

Seems like a good temporary fix, but replacing them seems like it isn't too bad if you find a decent indie to do the work.

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The dealer ( Sunset Imports) quoted me $350.00 per axle, replacing both inner and outer.

Not sure I'm up for the challenge.... $350 may be worth it.

appreciate the feedback ... mike

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I have a 2001 S. I have now done both right and left sides at 44k and 57k. It is about a 3 hour job per side with a good half hour saved by doing both at the same time. That is actual saved time because you will save more doing the second side based on the knowledge you gain with side one and don't forget by the time you get to side 2. It is a dirty job but the if you save $400 to $700 it may be worth it to you. The cost of the parts, boot kits, axle nuts (they say they should be replaced) and band aides is less than $70. Also get you to know and love the bottom side of your Boxster.

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Previous poster is correct. The boots are not that expensive. I got four boots (two inners, two outers) plus all the metal band clamps for less than $200. Had to pony up that much cash at the local dealer because I had no other choice. Apparently you can get all the parts for much less if you buy them as a "kit" which I believe is intended for a 928.

Getting the axles out isn't too bad. You remove the camber eccentric, pop off the toe link, remove the axle, rinse and repeat.

Edited by John V

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you can get the CV boot kits off ebay for under $20 each. replacing the boots is fairly straight forward. do both on the axle since you'll have it out of the car. here's a quick instruction set:

1. with the car on the ground, remove a wheel center cap

2. parking brake on, insert a 32mm socket with a short extension into the wheel center (axle nut)

3. remove the axle nut using a breaker bar on the 32mm socket (i jump up and down on mine)

4. jack up the car at all four corners. jack the rear up pretty high.

5. remove the diagonal braces from under the car (15mm nut x 3, 15mm bolt x 2)

6. remove the shear plate (15mm nut x 2, 15mm bolt x 2)

7. loosen the nuts (13mm) on the exhaust sleeve just aft of the catalytic converter on the side of the axle to be replaced

8. spray some PB blaster on the exhaust sleeve

9. remove the nuts (13mm x 3) on the flange between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter

10. slide the exhaust sleeve onto the catalytic converter to separate it from the muffler

11. remove the bolts (8mm hex x 6) from the drive shaft flange (have a partner operate the brake pedal to keep the shaft from turning)

12. slide the axle off the flange

13. use a brass bar and hammer to pound the axle from the wheel carrier

14. mount the axle in a vice

15. tap the metal cover off the inner CV joint

16. wipe out the grease

17. remove the snap ring

18. cut off the CV boot clamps

19. slide the inner CV boot back onto the axle

20. use a drift pin to tap the CV joint off of the axle

21. slide the CV boots off the axle

22. wipe out excess grease w/ clean cloth

23. slide the new outer CV boot onto the axle

24. pack the outer joint w/ grease

25. seat the outer boot & clamp it on with the supplied clamps (need special CV boot pliers)

26. slide the inner CV boot & clamp onto the axle

27. tap the inner CV joint onto the shaft (it only goes on one way)

28. replace the snap ring

29. pack the boot side of the inner CV joint w/ grease

30. seat & clamp the inner boot

31. pack the outside of the inner CV joint w/ grease

32. replace the metal cover

33. thoroughly clean the six hex bolts

34. insert the clean hex bolts and their little spacers through the inner CV joint

35. add loc-tite (strong / red) to each of the six bolts

36. insert splined shaft into hub

37. mate inner CV joint to flange at transmission

38. install the six hex bolts hand tight

39. use a partner operating the brake pedal; torque the flange bolts to 30 ft-lb

40. install the cat / exhaust section with a new flange gasket

41. install the shear plate

42. install the diagonal braces

43. lower the car w/ e-brake on

44. add loc-tite to axle nut

45. tighten axle nut to 400 ft-lb (i jump up and down on a breaker bar here)

46. replace wheel center cap

47. drive

if you've never done this and are reasonably handy, plan on four hours. if you are more or less a mechanic, plan on 1.5 - 2.0 hrs.

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Nice write up Insite... sounds pretty streight forward.

it's really not tricky at all. if you can find one, get a LONG 8mm hex socket for the CV joint flange. the boot gets in the way of a regular socket and makes it a little tough to R&R the bolts. other than that, this is a pretty easy job.

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If i am going to replace these things every few years, i am sure these will do the same as the oem ones. I thought that gkn was oem anyway.

i found a gkn cv boot kit on rockauto. I'm not sure if anyone else has used GKN Part # 92833292402 before. It tells me that it will work for an 02s

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If i am going to replace these things every few years, i am sure these will do the same as the oem ones. I thought that gkn was oem anyway.

i found a gkn cv boot kit on rockauto. I'm not sure if anyone else has used GKN Part # 92833292402 before. It tells me that it will work for an 02s

Hey guys, great info. But I've got a related question. If I want to raise the Boxster on all four points using jack stands, won't those stands damage and mar the underside of the car? I don't see how they would fit cleanly near the jack points. Any advice?

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