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How to change power steering pump

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1. Removing air cleaner assembly

2. Removing air cleaner assembly

3. Loosening belt pulley of the hydraulic pump

4. Relieving and removing drive belt

5. Loosening three-phase generator

6. Loosening air-conditioning compressor


7. Loosening air-conditioning compressor

8. Removing throttle body

9. Removing supply tank of the power steering system

10. Removing supply tank of the power steering system

11. Detaching steering return line

12. Detaching steering return line from the supply tank with tool

13. Detaching hydraulic pump and steering supply line


Removal Procedure:

1. Removing air cleaner assembly. Undo the hose clamp on the throttle body. Remove connector from hot film mass air flow meter. Unclip electrical lead on throttle body.

2. Removing air cleaner assembly. Unclip oil filler neck. Undo hexagon-head bolt M6 x 20 and remove entire air cleaner assembly.

3. Loosening belt pulley. Undo three hexagon-head bolts (M8 x 12) by approx. one half turn. Note: The belt pulley can also be loosened with a restraining strap after removal of the drive belt.

4. Removing drive belt. Mark belt travel direction with a colored pen. Slacken belt by turning the tensioning pulley (wrench size 24 mm) clockwise, hold still and simultaneously take the belt off the drive pulleys.

5. Loosening three-phase generator. Undo right-hand fastening screw (in direction of travel) and unscrew. Undo left-hand fastening screw (with deflection roller) by three turns. A gentle tap on the fastening screw loosens the threaded bushing in the generator arm (use aluminum mandrel).

6. Loosening air-conditioning compressor. Undo front compressor fastening screws (2 ea.) and disconnect electrical plug connection. Lift generator up and out of the slotted generator bracket. Unscrew fastening screw and remove with deflection roller. Note: Do not disconnect electrical connections or plug connection.

7. Loosening air-conditioning compressor. Undo compressor fastening screw between the intake pipes of cylinders 4 and 5.

8. Removing throttle body. Disengage accelerator cable and remove throttle body. Pull off vacuum check valve.

9. Removing supply tank of the power steering system. Suck fluid out of the upper supply tank until the level is below the joint. Turn bayonet lock ring counter-clockwise.

10. Removing supply tank. Detach bracket from supply tank and B+ disconnection

point and set aside. Pull supply tank up and off. Suck off fluid level of the lower supply tank and then immediately close the opening with a suitable plug.

11. Detaching steering return line. In order to detach the line from the supply tank, push the red unlocking ring forward (arrows) and simultaneously pull out the line. Use two plastic spatulas to press the unlocking ring.

12. Detaching steering return line from the supply tank with (special) tool. The line can also be detached using a commercially available tool. The removal tool from Snap-On, for example, is recommendable. Insert tool between line and the red unlocking ring and unlock. Pull line to the rear and simultaneously press the tool against the red ring. Carefully protect the line against dirt and scratches with a cap.

13. Detaching hydraulic pump and steering supply line. Undo steering supply line (wrench size 17); simultaneously counter at the body (wrench size 27). Undo three hexagon-head bolts (M8 x 12) and remove

hydraulic pump to the rear. Note: If coolant hoses come into contact with Pentosin, clean them thoroughly without delay.

14. Removing bracket with tensioning element. Undo flange for oil filler neck at the left rear bracket fastening screw. Immediately seal bore on the crankcase. Undo four hexagon-head bolts and remove bracket with tensioning element.



1. Installing hydraulic pump. Fasten bracket with tensioning element on the crankcase. Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb.). Insert hydraulic pump from the rear and fasten. Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb.).

2. Fitting steering return line. Insert line into the plug-in coupling in a straight line. Then pull slightly to ensure that the connection is properly locked.

3. Fitting supply tank for power steering system. Turn bayonet lock to its initial position.

4. Fitting supply tank for power steering system. Remove plug. Position tank (observe markings). Lock bayonet lock.

5. Fitting drive belt. Fit belt pulley of the hydraulic pump and screw in hexagon-head bolts. Fit drive belt. (See the DIY on changing the polyrib belt).

6. Fastening belt pulley for hydraulic pump. Tighten three hexagon-head bolts. Tightening torque 23 Nm(17 ftlb.). Note: The belt pulley can also be held and tightened with a restraining strap before the drive belt is fitted. Fasten air-conditioning compressor. Tightening torque 28 Nm(21 ftlb.).

Fasten generator. Fit throttle body and air cleaner assembly.

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  • 6 years later...

On my 4S, I couldn't even get a socket with a swivel joint on the rear A/C compressor bolt in steps 6 and 7, because an A/C line was immediately above the bolt. Here's how I did it:

  1. Get a 13mm flex-head ratcheting wrench.
  2. Remove the throttle body, T-shaped intake plenum, and sensors - slide the rubber hoses away from the T-shaped plenum, pull off one side, then the other.
  3. With the wrench on top of your hand and your palm up, stick you hand into the area the plenum was, and to the back side of the A/C compressor.
  4. Feel around, and use your thumb to place the ratcheting end of the wrench on the bolt head - break the bolt loose.
  5. Reach back behind the part of the intake that goes to the cylinder closest to the rear of the car on the passenger side (between cylinders 4 and 5) - remove the sensor from its bushing by pulling up.
  6. Remove the bushing that held sensor from previous step in place by sliding towards passenger side.
  7. Bend the flex-head of your ratchet 90 degrees and use your right hand to insert into the space the sensor and bushing from the previous steps were located.
  8. Use your left hand to locate the ratcheting end onto the bolt head.
  9. Use your thumb and forefinger on your right hand to rotate the wrench and loosen the bolt more.
  10. Keep ratcheting until the bolt is completely loose - mine can't actually be removed entirely without removing the A/C line immediately above the bolt.
Edited by John Matthias Syrinek
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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Hi Loren


I have a question about the RED locking o'ring for the return line. 


1. Removal was straightforward.  I pushed the Red Plastic Locking o'ring toward the back of lower reservoir and the return line came right out smoothly.

2, Installation problems.  I had to transplant the RED locking O'ring from my old PS Pump/Lower Reservoir to a replacement pump/Lower reservoir because it was missing on the replacement reservoir..  The plastic Locking Red O'ring popped right out.  Inside the return line cavity where it came out from was a regular rubber O'ring.  The Question is: Does the rubber O'ring FIT around the latching gripping arms of the plastic Locking RED O'ring  then the RED locking O'ring is inserted in the cavity of the return line OR does the extra rubber O'ring go in first, and then the RED Locking plastic O'ring goes in next? 


I tried the latter option and the Return line did not go in as smoothly as it came out and stopped about a quarter inch from its expected final location.  Also, when I pushed on the Red Locking O'ring to re-remove the return line, it did not feel as it felt when I originally pushed it when I removed the return line from the old reservoir. AND the return line is STUCK and can no longer be removed.    I  don't want to force the return line out of the reservoir because it looks like it is too fragile and breaking it will turn into a nightmare of towing the car to a Freon removal facility, removing the AC compressor, replacing the line, reassembling, re-charging the AC system.  etc...


Any suggestions are much appreciated..  


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The Problem was solved!!! 

The way I had the o'rings was correct!  However, the problem was that the return line pipe was slightly kinked.  I was able to finally remove it by positioning an 11mm wrench around the red locking Oring and pushed.   

After straightening the return line, it went in all the way, with a lot of small little pushes and a lot of silicon spray on both ends.

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  • 1 year later...

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