Rumbling rear suspension

[thumpers]

Hi folks!

First post so I hope you can help me with a problem that is ruining my joy of Boxster ownership. Firstly car is a 2001 S with 73,000 miles on it. Problem is when driving over lateral undulations in the road at low speed the rear of the car makes a terrible rumbling noise- best described as something loose in the rear luggage compartment or a loose ball and socket joint type of rumble. Seems more pronounced on the drivers side.

Have been to the OPC who have replaced lower suspension control arms first which didnt solve the problem, then returned to them and they replaced the rear anti-roll bar which made no difference and then the drop links all round which tightened the car up but alas didnt sort the problem. Am quickly running out of patience (and money!) trying to solve this problem and hope that somebody could offer some suggestions to a solution?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[jlow]

I have the same problem. Dealer reported that the rubber bushings on both long control arms were broken and both needed replacing. The bushings are built into the arm and therefore the whole arm needs replacing. About $800 for parts and labor.

[thumpers]

Cheers for the reply!

Is the long control arm different to the lower suspension arm? as Ive had that replaced. Excuse my ignorance of the suspension structure.

[jlow]

The part number he gave me was 986-33104307. The same part is used for either side. I'm sorry, I don't know if it is also called lower suspension arm.

[Loren]

Item 8 - Lower control arm -- US MSRP $335.41 (each)

Check with Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) for better pricing.

[thumpers]

Thats for that folks!

Am based in Ireland so the terminology is slightly different with part number 8 called the rear lower tie bar over here. Will go back to the dealer who fitted the rear" lower suspension arm" and find out exactly which part was fitted and compare it with the above diagram.

Hopefully it was a different part and the above suggestion will sort my problem out.

With thanks

[jlow]

Does anyone know if this R/R is a DIY job? The Bentley book says you need to have the rear alignment check/adjusted after the replacement. Is this job best done by the experts?

[RFM]

There is no need for a alignment after changing the lower control arm ( item 8 ), the replacement itself is piece of cake.

[Boxsterfahrer]

There is no need for a alignment after changing the lower control arm ( item 8 ), the replacement itself is piece of cake.

Check my new post regarding possible repair of the control arm dated 6-6-08.

[rick3390it]

Hello,

i also need to replace the 986 3104307 on my boxster S, but first to buy the original parts i've found these on ebay

Visit My Website

Visit My Website

anyone have experience whit these arms?

as always any help is greatly appreciated

[GAT911]

I want to say thank you to Boxsterfahrer. I also had the rattle from the left rear of my 2001 Boxster S that was ruining my Joy of ownership. I did the fix with the 1/8" punch and no more noise!!!! It all took about 1 hour.....

Regards,

George Toomey

There is no need for a alignment after changing the lower control arm ( item 8 ), the replacement itself is piece of cake.

Check my new post regarding possible repair of the control arm dated 6-6-08.

[fitsintite]

Hi Boxsterfahrer, Thanks for the DIY great idea, I'm wondering if there is a way to verify this arm before removing it, I'm getting the same noises as if something is dancing around in the trunk.

Thanks to all

Frank

[fitsintite]

Hi, Anyone have an idea.

Thanks

[Loren]

Hi, Anyone have an idea.

Thanks

Have you checked the sway bar mounting bolts - that is the most common cause of sounds from the rear.

[fitsintite]

Hi Loren, I will do that after work.

Thanks

[zappbranigan]

I'm kind of with "fitsintite" on his question: How do we verify the part is damaged?

Thanks for all your suggestions in advance!

[fitsintite]

Hi, Anyone have an idea.

Thanks

Have you checked the sway bar mounting bolts - that is the most common cause of sounds from the rear.

The sway bar mounting bolts are nice and tight, now to verify if there is any loose in the long arm not that easy. :cursing: :unsure:

[Stefan]

Loren, are you sure you've quoted the correct part? Part #9 is the lower control arm and I thought part #8 was something like "transverse control arm", which IIRC is cheaper.

[Loren]

Loren, are you sure you've quoted the correct part? Part #9 is the lower control arm and I thought part #8 was something like "transverse control arm", which IIRC is cheaper.

I quoted the part number he gave me (986.331.043.07) which is called "control arm" in PET.

[Stefan]

I quoted the part number he gave me (986.331.043.07) which is called "control arm" in PET.

I'm seeing it as "AS TRAILING ARM" but the part number you gave does appear to be correct so I suppose it doesn't matter.

[Loren]

Maybe my PET is newer...

[Boxsterfahrer]

]

Maybe my PET is newer...

I just completed the repair of my left rear control arm ( item #8 on parts fich) . The right one was done about 6 month ago and now no more noice from the rear. Pictures of the repair are attached for your review

attachment=14025:Control_Arm_001.jpg]

Edited September 20, 2008 by Boxsterfahrer

[Boxsterfahrer]

Hi Boxsterfahrer, Thanks for the DIY great idea, I'm wondering if there is a way to verify this arm before removing it, I'm getting the same noises as if something is dancing around in the trunk.

Thanks to all

Frank

I know of no sure way to test the control arm other than to measure the side play of the teflon or nylon insert. I tried it on my left rear control arm and found about 0.005" of side play under haevy pushing. The best way to check is to do the repair, reinstall and listen if there is an improvement. See the pictures of the repair dated 9-19-08. My two repairs have been successful and saved me about $600.00 in parts alone.

[pomocanthus]

Loren,

Is there a trick to removing the bolt (#12) holding the lower control arm to the frame? There is a notch cut into the threaded end of the bolt that matches the notch in the eccentric washer (#13). After the nut has been removed, can I simply but carefully pound the bolt out with a hammer?

TIA,

Hung

Edited October 18, 2008 by pomocanthus

[Boxsterfahrer]

Loren,

Is there a trick to removing the bolt (#12) holding the lower control arm to the frame? There is a notch cut into the threaded end of the bolt that matches the notch in the eccentric washer (#13). After the nut has been removed, can I simply but carefully pound the bolt out with a hammer?

TIA,

Hung

To remove the lower control arm #8 remove only bolt #10 and #15. If you remove bolt #12 you will need a realingnment.