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I’m looking at having my local QuickLube place change my oil.

I’ll buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart.

I’ll have the QuickLube guy drain the oil, change the filter then fill the car.

I usually change my own oil in my other cars (It’s kinda fun), but I don’t want to spill the 8 quarts in the garage. So I think I’ll let the QuickLube guys deal with that.

Where do you guys buy your oil filters? What’s the brand / number?

THANKS

05 Carrera S - 21,000 miles

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Buy your filters from our site sponsor- Sunset Porsche. Great pricings and service. 503-641-8600.

I sure hope the Lube Guys know the proper torque settings for the drain plug, and the filters. Are they going to be willing to wait around about 30 minutes for the last drips of oil to come out?

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Hi,

If you drain the car with the front up just a little you will need nine quarts.

Get your filter at Sunset or a dealer.

Paul

Edited by PAULSPEED

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My car says it needs service in 15 days and has a wrench on the info screen. I took delivery 13 months ago and the car has 6,500 miles. I planned to do an oil change myself at 10k miles. My dealer says it needs the one year service / oil change for $600! If I do the oil change myself will the service light go off? Appreciate any advice.

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My car says it needs service in 15 days and has a wrench on the info screen. I took delivery 13 months ago and the car has 6,500 miles. I planned to do an oil change myself at 10k miles. My dealer says it needs the one year service / oil change for $600! If I do the oil change myself will the service light go off? Appreciate any advice.

You can reset it with the Durametric Software, a PST2, or PIWIS tester.

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Not to sound snobby or anything, but I wouldn't trust those guys with my car. I have seen them mess up Accords. You paid all that money for your car and you only have to pay for an oil change once every 10,000 - 12,000 miles. Why not pay a little more and let the professionals do it? Besides, I like for my car to be "looked at" while its up to make sure that everything is going well. The last time I got an oil change, they tightened some loose screws and did some sort of quick fix update for my computer.

I believe that it's totally worth it take your car to the dealership.

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I believe that it's totally worth it take your car to the dealership.

For oil changes?

I'm afraid I disagree - perhaps the largest ripoff in the industry.

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I believe that it's totally worth it take your car to the dealership.

For oil changes?

I'm afraid I disagree - perhaps the largest ripoff in the industry.

I agree with Loren and others. Buy what you need, search the forum for oil changes instructions, and DIY.

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I believe that it's totally worth it take your car to the dealership.

For oil changes?

I'm afraid I disagree - perhaps the largest ripoff in the industry.

How is it a rip off? You pay them to do a service and they do it.

Technically a car wash could be considered the biggest rip off. You pay somepne $30 to put water and soap on your car, take a rag, and move their arms around in a circular motion. Then put more water on your car. I'm sure that the cost for parts for a car wash is less than $3.00. That's a 1000% mark up. Not to mention that this person is probably some dude who walked up and got a job and doesn't know anything about your car, let alone how to properly wash it. And how many times do you get your car washed per year? 20? That's $600 in car washes that you could have done yourself. And car washes are a lot less technical than actually working on your car and a lot less idoit proof.

At least the oil accounts for 70% of the cost of an oil change. The other 30% is labor and like I said, I don't mind a certified Porsche tech "looking" at my car once a year just for the heck of it. You never know what they may see while they are under there.

An ounce of prevention equals a pound of cure.

So why would someone take their car to a hand car wash, but feel the need to change their own oil?

Edited by nastinupe1

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Not to sound snobby or anything, but I wouldn't trust those guys with my car. I have seen them mess up Accords. You paid all that money for your car and you only have to pay for an oil change once every 10,000 - 12,000 miles. Why not pay a little more and let the professionals do it? Besides, I like for my car to be "looked at" while its up to make sure that everything is going well. The last time I got an oil change, they tightened some loose screws and did some sort of quick fix update for my computer.

I believe that it's totally worth it take your car to the dealership.

I believe it's totally not worth it to do an oil change at the dealership. Or at a quick lube place.

If you think they're torquing every fastern to spec, think again.

If you think they're putting exactly the fractional amount oil in, instead of overfilling to the next even liter, think again.

If you think that they're inspecting everything on the service checklist, think again.

You have one car to do, and you've marked off the whole afternoon. The more they can do, the more money they make. And oil changes aren't done by the most experienced tech in the shop either.

1. Download the service checklist from here.

2. Go to Harbor Freight, and for less than $150 you can get a jack, chocks, jack stands, metric sockets, a hex socket, a torque wrench, an oil filter wrench, and a 15 qt oil drain pan.

3. Go to an auto parts store and buy 10 qts of oil, for about $60.

4. Get online and buy the oil filter and crush ring. While you're at it, get a charcoal cabin filter and an engine air filter too, all for about $100.

5. Buy the Durametric for $250.

6. Do the oil change and change your filters yourself. Take your time, bring your computer to the garage or print the instructions.

7. While there, check things out. Get to know and appreciate the car. Leaks are easy to spot because they're shiny and moist where everything else is matte, dry, and dusty.

All told, you've paid about $560 for the first service. You only buy the tools once. The next one will cost you only $160 in consummables. The last dealer quote I got for a 20k service was $750. Even the first DIY results in a financial win. It's not like if I had the dealer do it, I'd be any better off. You better believe I be on the ground retorquing everything and making sure they didn't cross thread things.

Upgrade campaigns can be done during warranty work or for harder stuff. With my pair-of-catcher's-mitts sized hands, I've given up on bleeding the clutch, so I'll pay for that. When the suspension arm bushings go, I'll probably pay for that too. Ditto for engine mount, or clutch replacement. The frequency of that type of work, coupled with the difficulty, do not justify the cost or storage space for the tools. But, I've saved more than enough money doing my own oil changes and brakes to shell out every once in a while.

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Not to sound snobby or anything, but I wouldn't trust those guys with my car. I have seen them mess up Accords. You paid all that money for your car and you only have to pay for an oil change once every 10,000 - 12,000 miles. Why not pay a little more and let the professionals do it? Besides, I like for my car to be "looked at" while its up to make sure that everything is going well. The last time I got an oil change, they tightened some loose screws and did some sort of quick fix update for my computer.

I believe that it's totally worth it take your car to the dealership.

I believe it's totally not worth it to do an oil change at the dealership. Or at a quick lube place.

If you think they're torquing every fastern to spec, think again.

If you think they're putting exactly the fractional amount oil in, instead of overfilling to the next even liter, think again.

If you think that they're inspecting everything on the service checklist, think again.

You have one car to do, and you've marked off the whole afternoon. The more they can do, the more money they make. And oil changes aren't done by the most experienced tech in the shop either.

1. Download the service checklist from here.

2. Go to Harbor Freight, and for less than $150 you can get a jack, chocks, jack stands, metric sockets, a hex socket, a torque wrench, an oil filter wrench, and a 15 qt oil drain pan.

3. Go to an auto parts store and buy 10 qts of oil, for about $60.

4. Get online and buy the oil filter and crush ring. While you're at it, get a charcoal cabin filter and an engine air filter too, all for about $100.

5. Buy the Durametric for $250.

6. Do the oil change and change your filters yourself. Take your time, bring your computer to the garage or print the instructions.

7. While there, check things out. Get to know and appreciate the car. Leaks are easy to spot because they're shiny and moist where everything else is matte, dry, and dusty.

All told, you've paid about $560 for the first service. You only buy the tools once. The next one will cost you only $160 in consummables. The last dealer quote I got for a 20k service was $750. Even the first DIY results in a financial win. It's not like if I had the dealer do it, I'd be any better off. You better believe I be on the ground retorquing everything and making sure they didn't cross thread things.

Upgrade campaigns can be done during warranty work or for harder stuff. With my pair-of-catcher's-mitts sized hands, I've given up on bleeding the clutch, so I'll pay for that. When the suspension arm bushings go, I'll probably pay for that too. Ditto for engine mount, or clutch replacement. The frequency of that type of work, coupled with the difficulty, do not justify the cost or storage space for the tools. But, I've saved more than enough money doing my own oil changes and brakes to shell out every once in a while.

This is assuming that you do everything right the first time and don't mess anything up. Not to mention the time you spend to do the work. I make more per hour than I pay the techs so I believe that it's worth it to pay someone else to do the work.

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Ok folks back on the subject of this thread and what the original poster asked.

If you want to debate dealer oil changes please start another thread.

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[deleted per Loren's suggestion]

Edited by acao

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for most of us it's the love U have for your car.

on a sunny weekend, haning out in the organized garage, drinkin a couple of Heine, classic jam is playing, pretty girl friend being nosy cuz she is also curious,,, is there anything better in the world? HAHA

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I’m looking at having my local QuickLube place change my oil.

I’ll buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart.

I’ll have the QuickLube guy drain the oil, change the filter then fill the car.

I usually change my own oil in my other cars (It’s kinda fun), but I don’t want to spill the 8 quarts in the garage. So I think I’ll let the QuickLube guys deal with that.

Where do you guys buy your oil filters? What’s the brand / number?

THANKS

05 Carrera S - 21,000 miles

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right.

I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?)

Here is some info on sizes and torque settings:

Oil drain plug: 8mm hex

Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs

Oil filter canister size: 74 mm

Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly)

Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs

You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly.

Edited by rdevillers

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I’m looking at having my local QuickLube place change my oil.

I’ll buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart.

I’ll have the QuickLube guy drain the oil, change the filter then fill the car.

I usually change my own oil in my other cars (It’s kinda fun), but I don’t want to spill the 8 quarts in the garage. So I think I’ll let the QuickLube guys deal with that.

Where do you guys buy your oil filters? What’s the brand / number?

THANKS

05 Carrera S - 21,000 miles

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right.

I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?)

Here is some info on sizes and torque settings:

Oil drain plug: 8mm hex

Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs

Oil filter canister size: 74 mm

Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly)

Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs

You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly.

Ummm... Oil Change Instructions DIY

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I’m looking at having my local QuickLube place change my oil.

I’ll buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart.

I’ll have the QuickLube guy drain the oil, change the filter then fill the car.

I usually change my own oil in my other cars (It’s kinda fun), but I don’t want to spill the 8 quarts in the garage. So I think I’ll let the QuickLube guys deal with that.

Where do you guys buy your oil filters? What’s the brand / number?

THANKS

05 Carrera S - 21,000 miles

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right.

I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?)

Here is some info on sizes and torque settings:

Oil drain plug: 8mm hex

Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs

Oil filter canister size: 74 mm

Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly)

Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs

You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly.

Ummm... Oil Change Instructions DIY

Loren,

I am changing the oil in my Boxster S 3.4 liter engine. When I looked at the oil change instructions you mentioned the 3.6 liter engine oil filter ends in 60 and the 3.4 liter ends in 53. I ordered thee fiilter from Suncoast and they sent me the filter that ends in 60. The only difference I can see is that the 53 that came off of my car is totally flat on each end while the 60 has a narrow part around the opening that is elevated slightly versus the rest of the end piece. So my question is and I probably already know the answer is will this 60 filter possibly cause some problem? If yes should I for now stick the old filter back in so I can drive the car and change the filter only when I get the correct one?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

Mike Siron

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For MY08 987 the -60 filter is what the parts list calls out.

Thanks Loren. The 60 is what Suncoast sent me but the 53 was on the car as the original filter on this '08. I guess the 60 will work then. Thanks again.

Mike

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For anyone not comfortable with doing their own oil change, instead of taking it to a dealer, take it to a qualified shop in your area. An example: my 20k service, which isn't much more than an oil change, cost me over $800 at my dealer (known to be expensive). I called a local Porsche shop recommended by local PCA members, and they would have done the same thing (including cabin filter etc.) for $265.

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I've done my own ever since I've had it....only I made good friends with a fellow who has his own shop with a lift...and I just take the oil and filter to him, he jacks it up, drains it for the specified 20 minutes, puts in the new oil and filter and I give him $25 and buy a pizza for lunch.

I've also done it myself, but I'm getting a bit older and it's becoming more difficult to get under there....especially when I finally get set under there and find out I need a 10mm and I brought a 13!!

In reading over this discussion thread.....I think that nasti has made up his mind and no one is going to change it....although I am having a bit of difficulty with the relevance between a car wash and an oil change. I wash my own cars too!

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I’m looking at having my local QuickLube place change my oil.

I’ll buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart.

I’ll have the QuickLube guy drain the oil, change the filter then fill the car.

I usually change my own oil in my other cars (It’s kinda fun), but I don’t want to spill the 8 quarts in the garage. So I think I’ll let the QuickLube guys deal with that.

Where do you guys buy your oil filters? What’s the brand / number?

THANKS

05 Carrera S - 21,000 miles

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right.

I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?)

Here is some info on sizes and torque settings:

Oil drain plug: 8mm hex

Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs

Oil filter canister size: 74 mm

Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly)

Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs

You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly.

Your torque values don't agree with others I've seen, which are 18 ft lbs for oil drain plug, and 1.8 foot pounds for oil canister. These are what I torqued mine to today when I changed my oil.

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I’m looking at having my local QuickLube place change my oil.

I’ll buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart.

I’ll have the QuickLube guy drain the oil, change the filter then fill the car.

I usually change my own oil in my other cars (It’s kinda fun), but I don’t want to spill the 8 quarts in the garage. So I think I’ll let the QuickLube guys deal with that.

Where do you guys buy your oil filters? What’s the brand / number?

THANKS

05 Carrera S - 21,000 miles

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right.

I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?)

Here is some info on sizes and torque settings:

Oil drain plug: 8mm hex

Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs

Oil filter canister size: 74 mm

Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly)

Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs

You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly.

Your torque values don't agree with others I've seen, which are 18 ft lbs for oil drain plug, and 1.8 foot pounds for oil canister. These are what I torqued mine to today when I changed my oil.

According to the 997 Porsche Service Manual

Drain plug: 37 ftlb. (50 Nm)

Oil Canister: 19 ftlb. (25.8 Nm)

So, rdevillers is correct.

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I’m looking at having my local QuickLube place change my oil.

I’ll buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart.

I’ll have the QuickLube guy drain the oil, change the filter then fill the car.

I usually change my own oil in my other cars (It’s kinda fun), but I don’t want to spill the 8 quarts in the garage. So I think I’ll let the QuickLube guys deal with that.

Where do you guys buy your oil filters? What’s the brand / number?

THANKS

05 Carrera S - 21,000 miles

I would do it yourself. The 911 is the easiest oil change I have ever done. The filter and plug are right there when you crawl under behind one of the rear wheels. No need to jack up the car. I have done it twice on my 2008 C2S. The hardest part, literally, is taking the 8 1/2 quarts of oil to the recycling center and having a big enough drain pan. I purchased filters, an oil filter wrench (used with a socket wrench), and replacement plugs from Suncoast. They were great and the prices are right.

I don't have the part numbers but you will get the right parts if you select your car on Suncoast's web site (http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?)

Here is some info on sizes and torque settings:

Oil drain plug: 8mm hex

Oil drain plug tightening torque: 37 ft-lbs

Oil filter canister size: 74 mm

Porsche oil filter canister removal tool socket size: 27 mm (1-1/16 socket fits perfectly)

Oil filter canister tightening torque: 19 ft-lbs

You also need a torque wrench to be sure and get everything tightened down properly.

Your torque values don't agree with others I've seen, which are 18 ft lbs for oil drain plug, and 1.8 foot pounds for oil canister. These are what I torqued mine to today when I changed my oil.

According to the 997 Porsche Service Manual

Drain plug: 37 ftlb. (50 Nm)

Oil Canister: 19 ftlb. (25.8 Nm)

So, rdevillers is correct.

Thanks for clarifying this. I'll pass it on to the member who provided the other numbers, and I'll re-torque my items!

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