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Audio Upgrade


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Think my last post got lost in the way I tried to post it.

So, here goes again.

So, Andy, are you happy with the Bass output from the DKE-116s or would you recommend going the Kicker CompVT route and let the dash speakers provide the mids?

Andy,

Got most everything together (need to install passenger door speaker). Running door speakers as sub (thinking that maybe should have gone the Kicker speaker route) and system sounds very good. One small problem, though, AM reception is nil. Do I need to get an antenna amplifier?

Joe

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"But the guy in the Radio-store advised me not to do so when it comes to full-range speakers."

he is absolutely rite, for an example U dont want the speaker output to be crossed over for your 4"RFs since they are 3 way full range speakers with built in capacitors.

I dont know what kind of MB quarts U got but those MB 5-1/4 should be a component set? should've came with its own passive x over,,,like this

post-23680-1218520984.jpg

if still going to use your cdr220, U will probably need some sort of way to convert the speaker level output to RCA input.

And I think that is what U were talking about. I thought U meant the low level like 180HZ~250HZ which those MB mid ranges should be crossed at...

however U will need a signal converter like this 1

post-23680-1218521619.jpg

also wondering what is going to push your RF4s, flat sub,rear speaker kit?

Ok! Thanx!

Sorry for not really understanding English....but with X-over, do You mean what we in Sweden call "High-level"???

To steal that signal from the Speaker-outputs??

In that case I have an amp with X-over......I have used that to drive a Sub with.

But the guy in the Radio-store advised me not to do so when it comes to full-range speakers. That is why I wanna use a low-level signal.

//Mats

U will need either passive or electronic x-over,,,

best to get a multi CH amp with a built in X-over

Hey!

I´m finally ready for my stereo-upgrade.

After a trip to the states I have purchased the PNP rear-system a flat sub and a MB QUART 5,25" SYSTEM for the doors. Thanks a lot to Andy M for a great stereo-upgrade guide!!!! Will also change the fronts to 4" Rockford Fosgate.

My Question before I start is this:

I wanna drive the door speakers with an amp. How do I get a low-level signal for this?? Is it possible from the CDR-220??

( I have no door speakers now, so I dont have the original amp....JUST the CDR-220)

Thanx!

//Mat

Edited by juniinc
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Think my last post got lost in the way I tried to post it.

So, here goes again.

So, Andy, are you happy with the Bass output from the DKE-116s or would you recommend going the Kicker CompVT route and let the dash speakers provide the mids?

Andy,

Got most everything together (need to install passenger door speaker). Running door speakers as sub (thinking that maybe should have gone the Kicker speaker route) and system sounds very good. One small problem, though, AM reception is nil. Do I need to get an antenna amplifier?

Joe

I didn't have any issue with the antenna....not sure what's up there. FM reception ok ?

Don't recall the HU you selected but if Alpine, you can play with the crossover Freq to the doors a little, and with FR speakers in there it will sound fine if you put it up at highest freq available - probably 250hz.. I had the same thought about the Kickers, but I decided to keep the mid bass fill from the Polks in the doors and add a Kenwood KSC-SW10 behind the pass seat. Charlestonboxster gave me a great deal on the older Kenwood KS1 he had around so I will be using that. Putting it in this weekend I hope...... had I not done that I would have tried the Kicker route. I tried not running the doors as subs and found that at lower volumes it made the sound way to bright for my liking. I run the doors as subs with the high pass set as high as I can set it. I like the balance that gives the music at any level. Adding the KS1 is just going to fill out the bottom a little.

Edited by Andy_M
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  • 1 month later...

I finally replaced MB Quart 5.25" door speaker (QSD 213) with Kicker CompVT 65 (see pictures below)

They are connected in // to the MB PAB 5400 amplifier (4 Ohm/2)

BIG bass for 6.5 speakers!

I now need to fix vibration issues.

Anybody used Dynaplate to fill the gap behind the glove box?

my config (2001 996 3.6l):

MB QSD 210 as Dash speaker

MB RVF 210 as rear speaker

MB Quart PAB5400

Clarion MAX983HD

Kicker KQ9 preamp equalizer

post-29307-1222891230_thumb.jpg

post-29307-1222891240_thumb.jpg

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  • 6 months later...

Hi @all,

After summarizing all the different thoughts and recommendations I still can’t decide between the following setups and hope you guys can help me ones more! I’m using a Pioneer DEH-P6000UB as HU and replaced already the CDR23 and Becker amp. What I expect is a crystal clear sound with a crisp good bass. My music ranges from electro over independent to house.

Dash – MB Quart PVI 210 2-way component (I bought already)

Doors – MB Quart PVI 164 Woofer @4ohm 70wRMS (to get the same brand for the stereo at all with high quality?)

or Kicker CompVT 08CVT654 Subwoofer @4ohm 50 – 150wRMS (seems to be perfect driver but I didn’t saw any proper review yet)

Amp – MB Quart PAB 5400 4x55wRMS + 1x200wRMS

or Alpine PDX-5 @4ohm 4x75wRMS + 1x300wRMS or is maybe a Alpine MRP-F300 4x50wRMS already enough to power it all?

I’m concerned about the power of the amp because I had already installed Pioneers GM-5300T @4ohm 2x125wRMS to power the factory door speaker and realized that it has too much power for the alternator (please don’t ask me how that can be but according to the body shop the alternator and battery are good and I’m not that expert). However, the output of that combination wasn’t even worth it, so I put it out.

Thanks and cheers!

Virzn

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Something that I haven't really seen anyone mention on amplifiers, is physical size. When I bought my used Boxster it had a giant amplifier that took up the entire front trunk floor. I wanted something that would fit into the general area of the stock amplifier. I found 3 that looked good:

Alpine PDX-5

Infinity Kappa Five

Blaupunkt THA 555 PNP

They are all very compact 5 channel amplifiers. Alpine was a bit expensive. I would have preferred the Infinity, but nobody had it in stock. So I went with the Blau.

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They are all very compact 5 channel amplifiers. Alpine was a bit expensive. I would have preferred the Infinity, but nobody had it in stock. So I went with the Blau.

Blaupunkt still make great stuff though - I would have chose them over the Infinity (if choosing just by brand) - anyway how does it sound? Also a picture of how well the amp fits in the stock location would be excellent.

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I'll take a photo of the installed amplifier tonight. Plenty of power (for me), and sound is good, but the speakers are still a work in progress. The car originally came with the high-end Bose setup, and still has those speakers in the dash and doors. I'm planning on replacing the dash speakers with Boston Acoustics separates. The door Bose speakers are excellent (low pass at 250Hz), so I'm probably keeping those. The rear Bose sub box has had the drivers replaced with Focal 5" subs (crossed over at ~120Hz). I think this will end up being pretty good, but may feel like it's missing the presence of mid and high frequencies from below (250Hz and up is only coming from the dash). But we'll see. One change at a time, and then adjust. It's easy to get a great sounding stereo with the top up. The difficult part is getting it to sound good on the freeway with the top down.

Edited by demick
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Here's the Blaupunkt 5 channel amp in the stock amp location. I made an aluminum bracket that tilts the amp back so that the lower surface is accessible (that's where the controls and connections are). It mounts using the same two bolts and lower friction clamp as the stock amplifier.

post-39135-1240021863_thumb.jpg

post-39135-1240021873_thumb.jpg

Edited by demick
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I think this will end up being pretty good, but may feel like it's missing the presence of mid and high frequencies from below (250Hz and up is only coming from the dash).

Do you mean from behind?

Thanks for the pictures, that unit fits there quite well it looks!

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I think this will end up being pretty good, but may feel like it's missing the presence of mid and high frequencies from below (250Hz and up is only coming from the dash).

Do you mean from behind?

Thanks for the pictures, that unit fits there quite well it looks!

Having been through several iterations of upgrades, which include upgrading the head unit, amp, dash speakers, door speakers with baffle, and finally a custom sub, I can tell you that getting a good custom sub in your car is definitely what you need if you want awesome clear sound with good tight bass while you're driving 80mph with the top down. I spent a lot of time trying to avoid the expense, but now I couldn't be happier. Techno, house, rap, 80's hairband, all sound fantastic when the music is pumped up and you can feel it in your chest but still hear crystal clear vocals. I used to spend 6-8 hours a week on the interstate in the car, so I definitely know this particular issue well. A lot of upgrades sound *good*, but if you want awesome, you have to get a good sub.

In my opinion, and the problem that I haven't quite solved yet, is that getting great mids is probably the hardest part of getting the Boxster to sound perfect. There is definitely certain music that is heavy on the mids that don't sound great at lower volumes...I put in the rear Bose Sounddeck which has helped, but I still haven't gotten the mids right where they should be. Not sure if it can be done.

Bhavesh

Edited by veshman
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I just finished today the small sound upgrade on my '03 buddy. I finally decided for MB Quart PIV210 for the dash and PIV164 for the doors. The rear speaker kit has still the same speaker, I'll keep it as it is. The sound is powered by Alpine's PDX-5. To fit the speaker to the door I also created board's and did the whole installation based on Jinster's and Andy_M's guides (these both are perfect!!!). Except the doorplate - in Germany it's build with 3 single sheets to get more stability. I took some pictures of it.

After installing everything I spent another hour to adjusting all gain's and crossover's at my garage and was fine with the output - but let's see how it work's in the real life. I cruised with top down 50,60,70 m/h and to tell you the truth - the bass is outside the same as before, like none. However, now it's done and I take it as it is.

Here are now some pictures of the doorplates. The first one comes behind the doorframe, the second sheet in the middle of the frame and the last sheet sits on top. Each of them are fixed together with screws. I used Dynamat Ultimate for the finish.

Cheers :beer:

Virzn

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post-42142-1241141654_thumb.jpg

post-42142-1241141717_thumb.jpg

post-42142-1241141732_thumb.jpg

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The PIV164 are 6.5". Because of the fitting of the sheets into the door frame there is no room for bigger sizes. The added picture shows the how I measured the sheets. I used a $6 tool from Lowe's that is used to measure edges during lamination etc. but that works great for the door installation too. Maybe I'll do a quick DIY guide (would be my first one ever, but this forum here is it worth!)

post-42142-1241177581_thumb.jpg

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