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Where did you put your new audio amplifier?


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I'm personally planning to screw it on the lower left side when facing the spare tire. Is there any problem to use self tapping screws and screw the amplifier in the steel wall of the car? Do you have other options?

Thierry

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  • 2 weeks later...
I bolted the amplifier to a wooden board. I used rubber plugs to affix the board to existing holes in the car's sheet metal where the OEM amplifier bracket goes.

I "ditto" this... haven't done it yet, plan to do it this week. Installing 2 JL amps. I think the best method would be to construct a sheet of wood (like Oak Plywood) for the size of your amp(s), affix it using either rubber plugs as mentioned or with bolts screws to the OEM holes, and then mount your amp(s) to the board. The board can be placed behind the factory carpeting, or you can cover it yourself and affix it to the front of the carpeting.

Check the size / space you have available to the factory amp location first. You may have to attach to the side if the amp and board you are using are too big for the space behind the tire.

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shouldn't be any problem,,,

something like this? or below the tire

post-23680-1225663524_thumb.jpg

Juniinc,

Just out of curiosity... what did you do for attaching your amp to the factory HAES amp connector? Did you end up chopping off the connector and splicing new speaker wires to it? Or were you able to make some kind of interface adapter to plug in to the factory plug? I'd prefer the later for my setup... but I haven't seen any posts on it yet. Just curious what others have done.

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Thanks again for the info Juninc. I checked out your thread on your install... seems you're pretty keen on "clear sounding" audio as much as I am. In your own opinion do you think what I'm doing makes sense?

So far the front dash speakers contain the MB Quartz PVI-210 series which is their premium brand of speaker. 4" woofer + 1.5" Tweeter, hooked to a cross-over.

The door speakers I made the custom baffle for out of 3/4" oak surrounded in Dynamat Extreme front and back, and then replaced with the JL ZR-650 Woofers (didn't use the tweeters). Also hooked up to cross-overs (although I need to adjust them for low level only play-back, I think they're getting some mid-range right now).

The 4 rear deck speakers I replaced with the JL TR-350s.

The Receiver has also been changed out to the Alpine IVA-W203 / PV1 series.

Right now, my thinking is as follows. I have a JL 300/4 Amp and a JL 300/2 amp that haven't been hooked up yet. Based on your response, it looks like I'll have to hardwire the plug as well. My thinking is to place the Front Dash speakers on 2 channels, and the rear deck speakers on the other 2 channels of the 300/4 amp. Thus in theory, the rears will have slightly less power going to each of the 4 speakers than the fronts, but that's ok seeing as they're really only staging speakers anyways. The 6.5" woofers in the doors will each be connected to the 300/2 amp giving them 150 watts each, which should be great considering the speakers are rated for 200 a piece.

I am still debating on the subwoofer. I really like your design and would consider purchasing that housing you made for the center deck, although I would also want a switch where I could turn it off or on. I would probably prefer a smaller JL Sub, such as a 10w7 or possibly even a 8w7. I don't need to kill my ear drums, but knowing JL's subs they're usually real clean on the low bass frequencies. I'd obviously then need a 3rd mono-block amp... I think a JL 250/1 would "probably" be sufficient, I think a 500/1 would be overkill, but that may just be me.

What do you think? Does this sound "sound" ;)

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All along it sounds very good,,,

I like the choice U made.

MB quart is one of the best competetion seperates available. be sure they do come w/ their own passive crossover.

for those JL350's I think your JL amp is going to be too much for them . I would just let the alpine 45Wx4? push those little 3.5s

JL amp is great as well as their sub.

Yes with all these great component speakers U definitely need a true sub, not a 6inch mid range wanna be sub on the door.

many get confused their 6.5" with a sub woofer, use those 6.5" as your mid-range driver crossed at 250~400hz so they dont vibrate terribly end up making everything loose on the door,,LOL

then add a true JL sub to your JL300/4CH amp, using only 1CH of 4-bridge it then U got your mono block for the sub.

Thanks again for the info Juninc. I checked out your thread on your install... seems you're pretty keen on "clear sounding" audio as much as I am. In your own opinion do you think what I'm doing makes sense?

So far the front dash speakers contain the MB Quartz PVI-210 series which is their premium brand of speaker. 4" woofer + 1.5" Tweeter, hooked to a cross-over.

The door speakers I made the custom baffle for out of 3/4" oak surrounded in Dynamat Extreme front and back, and then replaced with the JL ZR-650 Woofers (didn't use the tweeters). Also hooked up to cross-overs (although I need to adjust them for low level only play-back, I think they're getting some mid-range right now).

The 4 rear deck speakers I replaced with the JL TR-350s.

The Receiver has also been changed out to the Alpine IVA-W203 / PV1 series.

Right now, my thinking is as follows. I have a JL 300/4 Amp and a JL 300/2 amp that haven't been hooked up yet. Based on your response, it looks like I'll have to hardwire the plug as well. My thinking is to place the Front Dash speakers on 2 channels, and the rear deck speakers on the other 2 channels of the 300/4 amp. Thus in theory, the rears will have slightly less power going to each of the 4 speakers than the fronts, but that's ok seeing as they're really only staging speakers anyways. The 6.5" woofers in the doors will each be connected to the 300/2 amp giving them 150 watts each, which should be great considering the speakers are rated for 200 a piece.

I am still debating on the subwoofer. I really like your design and would consider purchasing that housing you made for the center deck, although I would also want a switch where I could turn it off or on. I would probably prefer a smaller JL Sub, such as a 10w7 or possibly even a 8w7. I don't need to kill my ear drums, but knowing JL's subs they're usually real clean on the low bass frequencies. I'd obviously then need a 3rd mono-block amp... I think a JL 250/1 would "probably" be sufficient, I think a 500/1 would be overkill, but that may just be me.

What do you think? Does this sound "sound" ;)

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All along it sounds very good,,,

I like the choice U made.

MB quart is one of the best competetion seperates available. be sure they do come w/ their own passive crossover.

for those JL350's I think your JL amp is going to be too much for them . I would just let the alpine 45Wx4? push those little 3.5s

JL amp is great as well as their sub.

Yes with all these great component speakers U definitely need a true sub, not a 6inch mid range wanna be sub on the door.

many get confused their 6.5" with a sub woofer, use those 6.5" as your mid-range driver crossed at 250~400hz so they dont vibrate terribly end up making everything loose on the door,,LOL

then add a true JL sub to your JL300/4CH amp, using only 1CH of 4-bridge it then U got your mono block for the sub.

So by any chance can you make me that same enclosure you made for yours if I gave you the specs for the sub I want to drop in? ;)

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