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Most good Porsche techs can do an R&R on a clutch assembly in about 2-3 hours. I can almost match that if I have a lift and a tranny jack. Regardless, don't pay for more than 4 hours labor.

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Trying not to duplicate threads so here's my question. I'm getting ready to do the clutch on my 03 C4S and my indy said that Porsche calls for 17.5 hours of labor (???) but that they usually do it in 10. The total cost including replacing the flywheel would be around $2,600. So I called the dealer and they quoted me $3,100 with the flywheel ($1,100 less without the flywheel) for parts and 7 hours of labor. The indy shop says it takes longer because it is AWD. I'm getting another quote from another shop tomorrow. How long should it take to change the darn clutch? And if I do it myself (have access to a lift), do I need any special tools? Thanks!

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Quick update. I got a quote from a different indy and they charge $1,500 to replace the clutch and only 6 hours of labor. He mentioned that it was a very long job for older 4's but that the 996 C4S is actually not that time consuming. So my car is getting a new clutch there next week.

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I had a new clutch job on my 2003 C2 for about $1400. This includes all labor and parts. They used a Sachs clutch and bearing kit. My ind. shop charges $90 an hour labor and it took them about 4 hours. Give or take a couple of hundred dollars. I wouldn't spend more than $1600 us on a clutch job

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Buy the kit yourself. Sachs OEM direct replacement is under $500 online (Pressure plate, clutch disk and TO bearing.)

Try to find a mechanic who will let you use your own parts and just charge you the labor.

Based on a 4 hour job on a C2 at $100 and hour you should be able to get it done for about $1000 all in......

Here is an example from a web page

+ enlarge image

Quantity

Price: $473.95

App: Direct Fit OE Replacement 2002-2005 Porsche 911

Brand: Sachs Clutch Kit

Part#: W0133-1646898

Fits: Kit Consists of: 1) 996 116 027 06 Pressure Plate 1) 996 116 013 06 Clutch Disc 1) 996 116 080 04 Release Bearing.

Type: Direct Fit OE Replacement

Availability: In Stock

Usually Delivers in 2 to 3 days

Engine-Fits2003: Carrera 4; 6Cyl 3.6L;2003: Carrera; 6Cyl 3.6L;2003: GT2; 6Cyl 3.6L;2003: Turbo; 6Cyl 3.6L;

Edited by phillipj

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Heloo All

My apologies for the bump, but I wanted to update the group on me clutch replacement. I went with an indie shop (too cold outside for a DIY) near where I live. PowerTech :thumbup: in Rockaway NJ. Great shop! They quoted me 6.5 hours for labor and put in a Sachs Peformance clutch and flywheel. The parts were at or near cost and the service was fast. I am very happy with their work and would highly recommend them to anyone.

just curious, what did they charge you? and is there any public transportation in the area? as I would need it to get back to NYC (brooklyn)

thanks

Edited by kmn5

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It took me about 7 hours to replace my clutch. The harderst part was to align it so that it went back in.

I did not need a RMS tool. I took the seal to Home Depot and found a sewer line joint about the same size as the seal, then I just tapped it in with a mallet.

It was my first time doing it and it was a bit tight when the car was on four jackstands. I needed help to get the transmission back in since it is heave to more around even with the tranny jack.

The flywheel cost me $700 on Ebay and the clutch was about $350. Tranny jack was about $70...

Kristian

jr,

I feel your pain :( A lot people tend to hold Porsche in this "high" light.. :lol: I have news for them.. um.. yeah.. they cobbled things together just like a race shop would do at the track in an emergency!

B

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That's great Kristian.Seven hours is a great time for that job on the ground. Dont it feel good to save a wad of cash once in a while. :wrench:

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That's funny. I got my rebuilt alternator at Autozone too after getting a quote from the dealer for a new one at $1200. It was also around $100 and it comes with lifetime warrantry. You just can not beat that. That was about 20K miles ago and it's still running strong. :)

Same here for a rebuilt one at Autozone. It's just a little noisier than the one that came out.

JP

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Heloo All

My apologies for the bump, but I wanted to update the group on me clutch replacement. I went with an indie shop (too cold outside for a DIY) near where I live. PowerTech :thumbup: in Rockaway NJ. Great shop! They quoted me 6.5 hours for labor and put in a Sachs Peformance clutch and flywheel. The parts were at or near cost and the service was fast. I am very happy with their work and would highly recommend them to anyone.

just curious, what did they charge you? and is there any public transportation in the area? as I would need it to get back to NYC (brooklyn)

thanks

I used to use them when I worked in NYC. The shop isn't too close to the NJ Transit train but close enough where I would take a cab in the morning to the station and then they'd pick me up at night in a tricked-out air-cooled 911.

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2002 996 C2 Cab, 40,000 miles.

I hope it's OK to tag this on the thread - seems to fit ....

My clutch probably needs replacing soon - light judder at first engagement and it's possible to spin the clutch if I make too aggressive a change with lots of power. I'm going to do this myself, I've got the garage space and a beater Suburban just in case, although no hoist or pit.

  • Is it ever possible to reface the flywheel or is replacement the only option ever?
  • Any recommendations as to parts other than OEM? (This is a daily driver, never raced)
  • Is there a particularly good set of instructions anyone can point me to, especially with the little "I could have saved three hours and several ounces of blood if I'd only known that...." tips and tricks?
  • I assume you drop the engine and gearbox and then split, or can you split without disturbing the engine?
  • My RMS is fine, as far as I know. Any compelling reason to change it anyway whilst I'm in there?
  • Anything else I should do or inspect whilst I'm doing this job?

Thanks guys!

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If you do search there are some good threads on clutch replacement.

Lots of people have done their own so I know it's not that big of a job if you have the skills.

You will have to replace your flywheel if worn. I would stick with the OEM parts for your daily driver. . Go online and you can get the Sachs OEM replacement kit for much cheaper that buying it from Porsche. These kits come with the alignment tool. . Make sure you replace the TO and the pilot bearing. Get some new flywheel bolts as well (they are cheap).

Some say to do your RMS while you are there and others say to leave it alone if it's not leaking. You will need a special tool if you decide to do the RMS.

Read the threads here and see what you think.

Good luck!!

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If you do search there are some good threads on clutch replacement.

Lots of people have done their own so I know it's not that big of a job if you have the skills.

You will have to replace your flywheel if worn. I would stick with the OEM parts for your daily driver. . Go online and you can get the Sachs OEM replacement kit for much cheaper that buying it from Porsche. These kits come with the alignment tool. . Make sure you replace the TO and the pilot bearing. Get some new flywheel bolts as well (they are cheap).

Some say to do your RMS while you are there and others say to leave it alone if it's not leaking. You will need a special tool if you decide to do the RMS.

Read the threads here and see what you think.

Good luck!!

+1 on previous tips. I would also get a tranny jack from Harbor Freight. This is indispensable especially when trying to line up the input shaft with the pilot bearing when mating tranny back to engine.

I would also consider the IMS retrofit from Jack Raby. So much peace of mind... and it's cheap insurance.

JP

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2002 996 C2 Cab, 40,000 miles.

I hope it's OK to tag this on the thread - seems to fit ....

My clutch probably needs replacing soon - light judder at first engagement and it's possible to spin the clutch if I make too aggressive a change with lots of power. I'm going to do this myself, I've got the garage space and a beater Suburban just in case, although no hoist or pit.

  • Is it ever possible to reface the flywheel or is replacement the only option ever?
  • Any recommendations as to parts other than OEM? (This is a daily driver, never raced)
  • Is there a particularly good set of instructions anyone can point me to, especially with the little "I could have saved three hours and several ounces of blood if I'd only known that...." tips and tricks?
  • I assume you drop the engine and gearbox and then split, or can you split without disturbing the engine?
  • My RMS is fine, as far as I know. Any compelling reason to change it anyway whilst I'm in there?
  • Anything else I should do or inspect whilst I'm doing this job?

Thanks guys!

Graham,

I guess there are plenty of DIY out there, but the one I would prefer to any other is the official manufacturer instructions. You can find them on www.alldatadiy.com. Costs you a few $$$ but it gives you access to most, if not all repair instructions, plus other things you won't find easily, like tightening torque. Besides that, there are a couple of tips you should consider:

- the transmission holds the engine. So when you lower the transmission, you lower the engine as well. I don't know how low it goes, but the manual says it shouldn't be lowered than more than 25mm (1 inch). Note that this extra clearance will help you a ton when it's time to reassemble everything (the bolt on top of the gearbox will make you sweat and swear). I guess you can do that with a jack, but I'd use some of the savings made by doing the work yourself to buy the specially designed retainer bar (tool 9624/1). You can find it on samstagsale.com, I think I saw it as well on Ebay.

- as Kristian mentions, the hardest part is realigning the gearbox with the flywheel. A set of drift punches will help, but what will really make your life easier is a couple of long 14x1.5mm bolt (size of most bolts used to attach the gearbox to the engine). Be very careful with that, you can destroy the threads in the process, but that will save you tons of time and efforts.

Good luck.

Laurent

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This thread is so helpful. Thank you.

I had an unfortunate situation this past week at my local Porsche dealership. My 2004 Carerra 911 4S Cab (75K Miles) had a bad exhaust vibration. I had been quoted a repair cost of $500 on two separate occasions. Long story short, they put brand new tailpipes at $600 a pop which still didn't completely fix the vibration and it's changed the sound of my beloved car without covering the additional cost with me. In a bid to make it right, they have offered a $800 credit on an upcoming needed clutch replacement. Estimate? $4000 if it needs a flywheel...$1100 less if not... From what I'm reading here that is way more than exorbitant. Anyone have a trusted mechanic in Central Virginia?

They put my wife in a brand new Cayman for a loaner--says this job is going to take all week. WHAT?????!!!!!!

Thanks for your help

Nick

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