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geoffdward

Speaker upgrade choices

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Fellow Porsche fanatics,

Planning to replace the factory speakers fitted in my '03 (MY04) Boxster with higher quality items. My car has the M490 sound system fitted - dash and door speakers and the separate amp. Original head unit. Rear storage compartment fitted, but probably won't install speakers in it.

Questions:

1. Are the specs for this amp 6 * 40W RMS into 4 Ohms?

2. Are the two channels that drive the door 'subs' (I use the term loosely) crossed over and therefore only sending low frequencies to those speakers, or is a full range signal transmitted to them?

My requirements are:

- Good sound quality (fairly neutral) is more important than high volume.

- Want decent bass (tight and musical rather than boomy).

- Music is a mixture, but I mostly play rock. There isn't much below 50Hz on most CDs I listen to.

- Must retain an original appearance.

- I don't plan to put a separate (additional) sub in the car, although may consider putting one behind a seat.

- Cost of the speakers not really a consideration.

3. Given the above, what are some good choices for the dash speakers? Would the Polk 401s be the best choice for me?

I'll probably replace the existing door 'subs' with better ones or some full range speakers that produce good bass. Obviously small speakers aren't going to reproduce low frequencies very well.

4. What are some good choices for the door speakers?

5. Are there any speakers of the size (5.5"?) that don't require mods to the doors that go down to about 60Hz at say -3dB?

6. What is a good online e-tailer in the U.S. that will ship to Australia? (I expect some suggested speakers won't be available here)

I've read the many posts describing various stereo upgrade options on this forum including AndyM's excellent diy guide.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

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Fellow Porsche fanatics,

Planning to replace the factory speakers fitted in my '03 (MY04) Boxster with higher quality items. My car has the M490 sound system fitted - dash and door speakers and the separate amp. Original head unit. Rear storage compartment fitted, but probably won't install speakers in it.

Questions:

1. Are the specs for this amp 6 * 40W RMS into 4 Ohms?

2. Are the two channels that drive the door 'subs' (I use the term loosely) crossed over and therefore only sending low frequencies to those speakers, or is a full range signal transmitted to them?

My requirements are:

- Good sound quality (fairly neutral) is more important than high volume.

- Want decent bass (tight and musical rather than boomy).

- Music is a mixture, but I mostly play rock. There isn't much below 50Hz on most CDs I listen to.

- Must retain an original appearance.

- I don't plan to put a separate (additional) sub in the car, although may consider putting one behind a seat.

- Cost of the speakers not really a consideration.

3. Given the above, what are some good choices for the dash speakers? Would the Polk 401s be the best choice for me?

I'll probably replace the existing door 'subs' with better ones or some full range speakers that produce good bass. Obviously small speakers aren't going to reproduce low frequencies very well.

4. What are some good choices for the door speakers?

5. Are there any speakers of the size (5.5"?) that don't require mods to the doors that go down to about 60Hz at say -3dB?

6. What is a good online e-tailer in the U.S. that will ship to Australia? (I expect some suggested speakers won't be available here)

I've read the many posts describing various stereo upgrade options on this forum including AndyM's excellent diy guide.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

After listening to several speakers and also not wanting to spend a fortune on them, I decided on the Infinity 6020CS component speakers for my 03 Boxster S. They have a 6.5 inch mid-bass unit for the door and a separate tweeter that can be installed in the dash pod. I didn't have door speakers or an amp in mine to start with, and will also be upgrading the head unit to the Alpine CDA-105 at the end of the month and installing an Alpine MRP-F300 amp. I expect this to sound very good when finished.

I like the 6020CS speakers because they don't take much power to drive, but according to all the reviews I read still carry good bass and are very crisp on the high end. Because of the low power requirements, they should work well with the factory amp and if you shop on-line, you can pick them up for around $100 for the pair. They sounded great in the store and received very good reviews on-line. From other Boxster forums I understand that for folks who already have door speakers, modifying to 6.5 inch is a very popular and pretty simple upgrade.

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Fellow Porsche fanatics,

6. What is a good online e-tailer in the U.S. that will ship to Australia? (I expect some suggested speakers won't be available here)

G'day mate! Good to see other Australians on here... yes it seems a little problematic sourcing some of the good parts.. but hopefully your thread will continue to yield good advice :) Did you see this post by someone who used aussie Jaycar speakers in the front/dash? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...617&hl=seat

Cool!

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I'm a very critical listener and haven't found much in the way of modern automotive speakers that sound balanced and don't rip your head off from over emphasized metal tweets. It seems most manufactures are going to metal tweeters and other odd components in order to have higher power handling to minimize warranty claims from blowing drivers. I still can't understand why one would want to listen to metal as a source of reproducing music. But, that's just my opinion and doesn't mean much.

I've used Hertz speakers with great results. Being a European speaker manufacturer, they tend to drop right in to German cars without the need to cut or modify stock openings. Keep in mind that a USA spec 5.25 inch speaker is slightly bigger than the European 130 millimeter speakers. I've got a set of Hertz Hi Energy HCX130 co-axials (130mm in size) in my 911 and they are stunning for a $220 set of coaxials. Extremely musical, very efficient and have excellent power handling capabilities. They take a few hours to break in before they smooth out. Hertz uses fabric tweeters.

Here's the main site: Hertz Elettromedia

Certain Focal components sound quite good and drop right into European cars. Recently I put a set of Memphis Car Audio speakers behind a newer stock GM stereo and they sound exceptional for a set of cheap Chinese made coaxials. I was quite surprised on the results.

Also, call Rod Birch at www.caraudioinnovations.com for some suggestions on what to use. I purchased my Hertz and other gear from him. He's a straight shooter, has tons of Porsche audio experience and can sell you Hertz and other good gear. If you like smooth, musical systems, he's a great source.

Here's one of Rod's Boxster installs: Boxster S Install

Just for fun: Rod's own 996...

Good Luck!

Jay

02 986

90 964

84 911

Edited by Jay H

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Hey guys,

Really appreciate your comments and references to upgrade work done by others.

yellowlemon, it's a bit of a drag for us to fork out more and have to import some of the good kit isn't it? Price we pay for living at the bottom of the earth!

JayH, those Hertz speakers sound like a good option. Agree that metal domes are often too bright in a car. I'll try to find a stockist here and have a listen to them. I'll skype Rod and see what he suggests too.

DaveS, those Infinities look to be very efficient (93 dB @ 1W) and good range too, however they are 2 Ohm impedance. I'd expect that the original amp I have could well overheat driving such a low impedance load. I'm working on the assumption that the stock speakers are 4 Ohm nominal impedance.

Cheers,

Geoff.

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Hey guys,

Really appreciate your comments and references to upgrade work done by others.

yellowlemon, it's a bit of a drag for us to fork out more and have to import some of the good kit isn't it? Price we pay for living at the bottom of the earth!

JayH, those Hertz speakers sound like a good option. Agree that metal domes are often too bright in a car. I'll try to find a stockist here and have a listen to them. I'll skype Rod and see what he suggests too.

DaveS, those Infinities look to be very efficient (93 dB @ 1W) and good range too, however they are 2 Ohm impedance. I'd expect that the original amp I have could well overheat driving such a low impedance load. I'm working on the assumption that the stock speakers are 4 Ohm nominal impedance.

Cheers,

Geoff.

I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder.

I read several posts on MB Quartz, and let me tell you, they're pricy, but worth it. I installed the MB Quartz PVI-210 series for my front dash, which include a 4" woofer, and 1.5" tweeter.

For the doors I replaced the woofers with the JL Audio ZR 650CSi's. Although they also come with 1.5" tweeters, I chose not to install them.

I also wanted a completely "factory" looking soundstage, but there's work involved in order to achieve this.

If you plan to upgrade the dash speakers, the first problem you'll come across is that there is a special "basket" fitted to the OEM speakers.... the only way to remove it is to essentially rip it off, saw it off, etc.... I didn't prefer that method. Instead, I unbolted the original woofer and tweeter from the basket and set them aside. Then I took my 4" MB quartz woofer, and surrounded the edges in an industrial strength velcro fitting to temporarily hold it in the position I wanted. Then I sealed it in with clear silicone and let sit and dry for about a day. The Tweeter I did the same thing..... I also chose to use the crossovers that come with the kit to ensure that my highs and mid-range were separated properly.

As for the door speakers... you'll again notice, that the OEM speakers have a "special" encasing, and unless you use the same specification speaker size as the OEM, you're going to have difficulties upgrading them. I made my own custom "speaker encasings" made out of 3/4" Oak Plywood. There are several articles out there on the exact specifications you need to cut and fit these yourself. In addition, I wrapped the entire surround in Dynomat before fitting the new JL ZR 650 woofers. I also used the ZR Crossovers again to ensure these speakers were getting 'just the lows.' After I fit and re-wired the speaker in the baffle, dynomatted the baffle, and screwed it to the door, I then Dynomat'd the rest of the door to ensure there was a good seal, and sound proofing. (I have an article out there on my complete re-work).

For a while I used the standard HAES 6 channel amp that you have, but decided that the way it was setup to handle the rear speakers and door speakers was not properly staged. So I replaced the amp with 2 JL Audio Amps located in the front trunk, and did a complete re-wire. Other than the amps, it has a completely stock look to it. I then later added the Alpine IVA-W505 Head Unit, because I wanted bluetooth, NAV, and XM capabilities. With the available installation kits out there for the AVIC series head units, it allows the new head unit to really blend in to the dash and give it that updated look without looking like it's cheap or "non-factory."

I also upgraded the 4 rear speakers to JL TR 350s but that's neither here nor there since you don't plan to upgrade those.

000_0069.jpg

Driver's Door Complete

000_0070.jpg

Passenger Door Complete

000_0072.jpg

Amps Complete

000_0063.jpg

Head Unit Complete

My 2 cents.

Edited by usaf-lt-g

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I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder.

[...]

My 2 cents.

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking.

Edited by RaisedOnPorsches

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I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder.

[...]

My 2 cents.

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking.

For my entire setup, I did the install myself, here's what I paid for the parts:

JL ZR650-CSi - $440

MB Quartz PVI-210 - $140

JL TR350-CXI (for Rear Deck) 2 sets - $45 a set - $90 total

JL 300/4 Amp - $249

JL 300/2 Amp - $229

Porsche Avic / Alpine Head Unit Installation Kit - $150

Alpine IVA-w505 with P1 Navigation / Bluetooth Unit - $1099.95

JL Audio XC-PCS4-2B - 4AWG Premium Power Connection Wiring Kit for 2 Amps - I paid $89 for the kit with tax, but it was at a place by me going out of business...

JL Audio Speaker Wire - 16AWG roll of 100ft - $20

1 Sheet of 3/4" Oak Plywood - $18

1 Bulk Pack of Dynomat Extreme (enough to cover both doors no prob, and plenty for other applications) - $54

I also got the XM adapter, and Alpine Imprint2 Audio Processor, but that's optional stuff - $150 for it all

Some other items you'll need that I already have from my tool collection:

An electric Jigsaw, or Table Router to cut the door speaker templates

A good drill with plenty of bits, I recommend a good battery drill with plenty of torque, but electric works too

1 Canister of Clear Silicone

Industrial Stength Velcro

Your trusty Bentley Service Manual (big help for wiring diagrams)

All forms of tools, metric sets: torx bits, hex bits and sockets, wratchets, phillips screwdrivers, a butane pocket sized soldering iron with fine tip, rosin core solder, flux, wire caps, wire ties, a couple six packs of beer ;),

All in all from start to finish on everything, at least 3 days of good solid work. I tackled each section as a project and called it a day... a little bit at a time.

All in all let's see...

Major stuff listed above - $2728.95

+ tools and supplies you'll need (let's estimate for some decent tools assuming you have none) - $250

+ labor (i did it myself, but figure in some guy's rate of $35 / hr) - 8 hours per 3 days - 24 hours - $840

So worst case scenario - $3818.95 :) CA-CHING! B)

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I'm working on the assumption that the stock speakers are 4 Ohm nominal impedance.

My stock dash speakers for a MY04 Boxster were 8 Ohm impedance, mind you this is for standard not SPP. I replaced them with Jaycar Response Precision 4" dual-cone coaxials which are 4 Ohm impedance ..... and the stock Becker CDR-23 headunit does run a lot hotter with these! I notice when I eject CDs they are very warm. I hope the CDR-23 holds up :o

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Music sound systems are very personal choices. We all have different ears and different perspectives. What sounds good to one person may sound awful to another. I will share my biases and suggestions for what it is worth. I hope you find it helpful.

I am a classically trained musician. I listen to a wide variety of music on a wide variety of sound systems. Some very expensive...some not so much. I don't pretend to have "Golden Ears" but I do know what I like. My goal with any sound system is smooth, natural, reference quality sound from around 50hz-16khz, good imaging, reasonable volume, and low distortion, at a fair price point. I have no use for the "Boom and Sizzle" car audio that is all the rage with kids these days.

Suggestions:

The Becker sound system is marginal at best. The radio is lousy and it's components don't play well with others due to the MOST fiber optic system and non-standard crossovers and output impedance. Adding really nice speakers to the Becker system is a little like outfitting a monkey in a prom dress. It will surely sound better but you will never fully realize the potential of those fine new speakers. If you want a sound system that really works together well, start from scratch. You should be able to do a system using all quality components, that sounds great in the car (not down the block) for $1000-$1500 USD. Choose compatible components, keep it simple, install them with care, and enjoy.

Nice head units- Alpine, Blaupunkt http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDA9887/Al...l=N&tp=5684

Nice Speakers- MB Quart, Boston Acoustics separates (I favor the Bostons because I have been using them for 20 years but Quarts sound excellent as well) http://www.crutchfield.com/p_065PRO60SE/Bo...tures_and_specs

These components will sound great if installed and set up properly with a calculated maximum volume of 107db (moderate loudness). If you want deep bass below 50hz or want it louder, you will need to add a sub and an amp. Happy shopping!

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Topless:

I share the same thought when I thought about changing speakers on the car. I had a nice kenwood mp3 deck, nice amp /w a set of Focal 6.5" components on my previous car and obviously my stock non-bose system is a noticable downgrade. BUT, doing an overhaul on the whole system is just not worth it cost wise and a convertible (except for Lexus SC430, which supposedly has an awesome sound system) will never provide decent acoustics to begin with.

I think the best I'll do is just get the Dension gateway 500 installed so I can plug in a USB stick for MP3s.

Hey, when the top & windows are down I hear shiat all anyhow... :lol:

Edited by ekam

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I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder.

[...]

My 2 cents.

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking.

For my entire setup, I did the install myself, here's what I paid for the parts:

JL ZR650-CSi - $440

MB Quartz PVI-210 - $140

JL TR350-CXI (for Rear Deck) 2 sets - $45 a set - $90 total

JL 300/4 Amp - $249

JL 300/2 Amp - $229

Porsche Avic / Alpine Head Unit Installation Kit - $150

Alpine IVA-w505 with P1 Navigation / Bluetooth Unit - $1099.95

JL Audio XC-PCS4-2B - 4AWG Premium Power Connection Wiring Kit for 2 Amps - I paid $89 for the kit with tax, but it was at a place by me going out of business...

JL Audio Speaker Wire - 16AWG roll of 100ft - $20

1 Sheet of 3/4" Oak Plywood - $18

1 Bulk Pack of Dynomat Extreme (enough to cover both doors no prob, and plenty for other applications) - $54

I also got the XM adapter, and Alpine Imprint2 Audio Processor, but that's optional stuff - $150 for it all

Some other items you'll need that I already have from my tool collection:

An electric Jigsaw, or Table Router to cut the door speaker templates

A good drill with plenty of bits, I recommend a good battery drill with plenty of torque, but electric works too

1 Canister of Clear Silicone

Industrial Stength Velcro

Your trusty Bentley Service Manual (big help for wiring diagrams)

All forms of tools, metric sets: torx bits, hex bits and sockets, wratchets, phillips screwdrivers, a butane pocket sized soldering iron with fine tip, rosin core solder, flux, wire caps, wire ties, a couple six packs of beer ;),

All in all from start to finish on everything, at least 3 days of good solid work. I tackled each section as a project and called it a day... a little bit at a time.

All in all let's see...

Major stuff listed above - $2728.95

+ tools and supplies you'll need (let's estimate for some decent tools assuming you have none) - $250

+ labor (i did it myself, but figure in some guy's rate of $35 / hr) - 8 hours per 3 days - 24 hours - $840

So worst case scenario - $3818.95 :) CA-CHING! B)

Hell no!! With the top down, you'll never get a good sound, so why bother? I like my Pioneer unit I installed, and I might find some affordable aftermarket speakers eventually. But I will not send that kinda coin on it. No how-no way! :)

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I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder.

[...]

My 2 cents.

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking.

For my entire setup, I did the install myself, here's what I paid for the parts:

JL ZR650-CSi - $440

MB Quartz PVI-210 - $140

JL TR350-CXI (for Rear Deck) 2 sets - $45 a set - $90 total

JL 300/4 Amp - $249

JL 300/2 Amp - $229

Porsche Avic / Alpine Head Unit Installation Kit - $150

Alpine IVA-w505 with P1 Navigation / Bluetooth Unit - $1099.95

JL Audio XC-PCS4-2B - 4AWG Premium Power Connection Wiring Kit for 2 Amps - I paid $89 for the kit with tax, but it was at a place by me going out of business...

JL Audio Speaker Wire - 16AWG roll of 100ft - $20

1 Sheet of 3/4" Oak Plywood - $18

1 Bulk Pack of Dynomat Extreme (enough to cover both doors no prob, and plenty for other applications) - $54

I also got the XM adapter, and Alpine Imprint2 Audio Processor, but that's optional stuff - $150 for it all

Some other items you'll need that I already have from my tool collection:

An electric Jigsaw, or Table Router to cut the door speaker templates

A good drill with plenty of bits, I recommend a good battery drill with plenty of torque, but electric works too

1 Canister of Clear Silicone

Industrial Stength Velcro

Your trusty Bentley Service Manual (big help for wiring diagrams)

All forms of tools, metric sets: torx bits, hex bits and sockets, wratchets, phillips screwdrivers, a butane pocket sized soldering iron with fine tip, rosin core solder, flux, wire caps, wire ties, a couple six packs of beer ;),

All in all from start to finish on everything, at least 3 days of good solid work. I tackled each section as a project and called it a day... a little bit at a time.

All in all let's see...

Major stuff listed above - $2728.95

+ tools and supplies you'll need (let's estimate for some decent tools assuming you have none) - $250

+ labor (i did it myself, but figure in some guy's rate of $35 / hr) - 8 hours per 3 days - 24 hours - $840

So worst case scenario - $3818.95 :) CA-CHING! B)

Hell no!! With the top down, you'll never get a good sound, so why bother? I like my Pioneer unit I installed, and I might find some affordable aftermarket speakers eventually. But I will not send that kinda coin on it. No how-no way! :)

Actually,

On the contrary... I beefed it this way for the pure reason of better top-down sound. I get premium sound with the top down, driving on the interstate. The trebles and mid-range are crystal clear. The only thing it could use an improvement on during top-down highway driving (so as to counteract the wind noise) would be the additional "behind the seat" custom fit subwoofers, which I've already pre-wired the vehicle for. Enter in the NEW MB Quart 10" RSH 254. It's a shallow mount 10" subwoofer that I've already found can be custom fit behind both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle for optimum compartment space and sound quality.

In my opinion, the setup was completely worth it, looks stock, and performs optimally.

Edited by usaf-lt-g

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I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder.

[...]

My 2 cents.

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking.

For my entire setup, I did the install myself, here's what I paid for the parts:

JL ZR650-CSi - $440

MB Quartz PVI-210 - $140

JL TR350-CXI (for Rear Deck) 2 sets - $45 a set - $90 total

JL 300/4 Amp - $249

JL 300/2 Amp - $229

Porsche Avic / Alpine Head Unit Installation Kit - $150

Alpine IVA-w505 with P1 Navigation / Bluetooth Unit - $1099.95

JL Audio XC-PCS4-2B - 4AWG Premium Power Connection Wiring Kit for 2 Amps - I paid $89 for the kit with tax, but it was at a place by me going out of business...

JL Audio Speaker Wire - 16AWG roll of 100ft - $20

1 Sheet of 3/4" Oak Plywood - $18

1 Bulk Pack of Dynomat Extreme (enough to cover both doors no prob, and plenty for other applications) - $54

I also got the XM adapter, and Alpine Imprint2 Audio Processor, but that's optional stuff - $150 for it all

Some other items you'll need that I already have from my tool collection:

An electric Jigsaw, or Table Router to cut the door speaker templates

A good drill with plenty of bits, I recommend a good battery drill with plenty of torque, but electric works too

1 Canister of Clear Silicone

Industrial Stength Velcro

Your trusty Bentley Service Manual (big help for wiring diagrams)

All forms of tools, metric sets: torx bits, hex bits and sockets, wratchets, phillips screwdrivers, a butane pocket sized soldering iron with fine tip, rosin core solder, flux, wire caps, wire ties, a couple six packs of beer ;),

All in all from start to finish on everything, at least 3 days of good solid work. I tackled each section as a project and called it a day... a little bit at a time.

All in all let's see...

Major stuff listed above - $2728.95

+ tools and supplies you'll need (let's estimate for some decent tools assuming you have none) - $250

+ labor (i did it myself, but figure in some guy's rate of $35 / hr) - 8 hours per 3 days - 24 hours - $840

So worst case scenario - $3818.95 :) CA-CHING! B)

Hell no!! With the top down, you'll never get a good sound, so why bother? I like my Pioneer unit I installed, and I might find some affordable aftermarket speakers eventually. But I will not send that kinda coin on it. No how-no way! :)

Actually,

On the contrary... I beefed it this way for the pure reason of better top-down sound. I get premium sound with the top down, driving on the interstate. The trebles and mid-range are crystal clear. The only thing it could use an improvement on during top-down highway driving (so as to counteract the wind noise) would be the additional "behind the seat" custom fit subwoofers, which I've already pre-wired the vehicle for. Enter in the NEW MB Quart 10" RSH 254. It's a shallow mount 10" subwoofer that I've already found can be custom fit behind both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle for optimum compartment space and sound quality.

In my opinion, the setup was completely worth it, looks stock, and performs optimally.

Please post Pics when you have the subs installed!

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Fellow Porsche fanatics,

6. What is a good online e-tailer in the U.S. that will ship to Australia? (I expect some suggested speakers won't be available here)

G'day mate! Good to see other Australians on here... yes it seems a little problematic sourcing some of the good parts.. but hopefully your thread will continue to yield good advice :) Did you see this post by someone who used aussie Jaycar speakers in the front/dash? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...617&hl=seat

Cool!

Yet another bloody Aussie !

I tried the Jaycar speakers as suggested and was not impressed. Replaced them with some JBLs which seem to have a lot more depth and clarity...and more bass. I'm told that 4" MB Quarts DKG110 (a German company) are excellent albeit not cheap. Can also get them locally in Oz but may be cheaper to get them on Ebay out of Germany.

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Fellow Porsche fanatics,

6. What is a good online e-tailer in the U.S. that will ship to Australia? (I expect some suggested speakers won't be available here)

G'day mate! Good to see other Australians on here... yes it seems a little problematic sourcing some of the good parts.. but hopefully your thread will continue to yield good advice :) Did you see this post by someone who used aussie Jaycar speakers in the front/dash? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...617&hl=seat

Cool!

Yet another bloody Aussie !

I tried the Jaycar speakers as suggested and was not impressed. Replaced them with some JBLs which seem to have a lot more depth and clarity...and more bass. I'm told that 4" MB Quarts DKG110 (a German company) are excellent albeit not cheap. Can also get them locally in Oz but may be cheaper to get them on Ebay out of Germany.

Again,

If you're looking for a high-end speaker... I HIGHLY recommend the MB Quartz or JL (not JBL) speakers. They are both phonnomenial speakers.

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I tried the Jaycar speakers as suggested and was not impressed. Replaced them with some JBLs which seem to have a lot more depth and clarity...and more bass. I'm told that 4" MB Quarts DKG110 (a German company) are excellent albeit not cheap. Can also get them locally in Oz but may be cheaper to get them on Ebay out of Germany.

Hey mate! **** I installed those Jaycar speakers just because it was easy (just mangled the OEM harness to hold those speakers). I wish you hadn't told me I could get more bass with other speakers :rolleyes: - Is it easy to install other 4" speakers as well? (without making custom brackets etc)

Where can you get those MB Quart's in Australia?????? I have checked everywhere in Brisbane, and all Aussie online sellers - and nothing has come up... :(

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