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rms install tool

dpwell
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dpwell Member

dpwell

Posted
Posted

The clutch release lever on my '98 2.5 5 speed Boxster cracked. The RMS was leaking any way. I was going to just install the seal like any other. But, because of all the trouble with them, I'm reluctant. I'm thinking I should do it right. I've only found the tool at a Porsche dealer for $400.00. I imagine I should just buy it. Unless someone knows a more economical solution that will work. As always thanks for any help you can give me. mike.

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jmatta Member

jmatta

Posted
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Out of curiousity, read the following link. These chaps installed a new RMS without the benefit of the special tool Porsche requires. It appears they just tapped the seal in until it was flush with the case. Not being a master Porsche mechanic, I can't comment on whether there is merit to this or not (but it is alot cheaper and possibly just as good).

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php

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dpwell Member

dpwell

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Amazingly enough I had only this morning reviewed their procedure. It is much as my original plan. I have changed rear main seals in other vehicles this way. mike.

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RFM Member

RFM

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The seal on the speedracing site is an old style seal, the new design sits a lot deeper. A special tool and instructions (some precautions to take) are needed for a good result.

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catmanluge Member

catmanluge

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The seal on the speedracing site is an old style seal, the new design sits a lot deeper. A special tool and instructions (some precautions to take) are needed for a good result.

I had a seal install tool made at a machine shop for a lot less money... The depth is important for success as the deeper the new seal (987 version) is placed the less flex the crank has.

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jmatta Member

jmatta

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I find it interesting that there is no "stop" on the opening where the seal sits...you could effectively push it right into the interior of the case if you weren't careful. For some reason, this does not make alot of sense to me; is it simply tension that holds this in place? No wonder the thing deforms as the loose crank spins within.

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1schoir Member

1schoir

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It seems, often when I try to cut corners, things don't turn out. I'm likely going to order the tool in a little while. mike.

dpwell:

Why not contact the machine shop that made the tool for "catmanluge" and have them make you another one?

Regards, Maurice.

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suburban99 Member

suburban99

Posted
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If you order one, there may be enough forum members to rent it to, so that you can recoup some of your investment.

Check out you tube video of boxster engine rebuild...he uses a piece of ABS plastic pipe a mallet and a caliper guage for the depth...I have done many over the years

never on a porsche..but the very same method he uses was taught to me in Millwright school 20+years ago. If you are worried about getting a seal too deep, buy 2 and

pull out the first one if needed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
dpwell Member

dpwell

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To: kbrandsma, thank you for your offer. As 1schoir said "Very generous of you!" To all: I needed 5 different tools. I didn't understand completely at first. The cost was going to be over $1000. I would have spent it, but they were not all readily available. So I went back to my roots (hillbilly, okie, tightwad, etc.) and made everything from stuff lying around. I probably spent about $10. I got the car running last night and it seems Okay. I have pictures and I will upload details when I get a chance (soon). Oh I did buy a triple square bit set & a power bleeder, these did cost $10 & $100 respectively. Thanks for your interest & support. Mike.

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  • 2 weeks later...
1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
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Looks like my 2002 S is springing a leak, small but a leak from the RMS. I'll let it go for now and plan on replacing the clutch with it too. Any advice on the flywheel?? I have 58,000 miles on the car.

Thanks

Keither:

Some have successfully gone to a slightly heavier weight oil and found that totally stopped their slight RMS leak.

Just a thought, if you are still using 0w40 and are in the appropriate climate that would permit a heavier oil.

Regards, Maurice.

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Keither32 Member

Keither32

Posted
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LOL, figures I just had the oil changed. And yes, I used the recommended weight of 0w40. I'll give a heavier weight a try and see what happens. I live in Minneapolis, MN and don't take the car out unless it's 50's or above.

Thanks Maurice

Cheers,

Keith

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1schoir Member

1schoir

Posted
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LOL, figures I just had the oil changed. And yes, I used the recommended weight of 0w40. I'll give a heavier weight a try and see what happens. I live in Minneapolis, MN and don't take the car out unless it's 50's or above.

Thanks Maurice

Cheers,

Keith

Keith:

One of the people who did this and documented that his leak had completely stopped is Pedro on PPBB.com. Do a search on PPBB or send him an e-mail through PPBB, he's very helpful and very knowledgeable.

He's in Florida, but if you don't take the car out unless it's 50 or above you might give it serious consideration.

A side benefit might be that you will extend the life of your clutch as you should be reducing the chance that the pressure plate will get contaminated with oil.

Regards, Maurice.

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kbrandsma Member

kbrandsma

Posted
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I replaced my RMS, IMS and clutch at 52K. Left the flywheel alone. Cost is $400 +. It looked in excellent shape. No oil from RMS leak, took a caliper and checked for wear. I figured I would catch it next time I did the clutch at 100Kor so.

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Keither32 Member

Keither32

Posted
Posted
LOL, figures I just had the oil changed. And yes, I used the recommended weight of 0w40. I'll give a heavier weight a try and see what happens. I live in Minneapolis, MN and don't take the car out unless it's 50's or above.

Thanks Maurice

Cheers,

Keith

Keith:

One of the people who did this and documented that his leak had completely stopped is Pedro on PPBB.com. Do a search on PPBB or send him an e-mail through PPBB, he's very helpful and very knowledgeable.

He's in Florida, but if you don't take the car out unless it's 50 or above you might give it serious consideration.

I'll give it a try and see what happens. I appreciate the information.

Many Thanks,

Keith

A side benefit might be that you will extend the life of your clutch as you should be reducing the chance that the pressure plate will get contaminated with oil.

Regards, Maurice.

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Keither32 Member

Keither32

Posted
Posted
I replaced my RMS, IMS and clutch at 52K. Left the flywheel alone. Cost is $400 +. It looked in excellent shape. No oil from RMS leak, took a caliper and checked for wear. I figured I would catch it next time I did the clutch at 100Kor so.

That's what I hope to do with mine and change it on the next clutch change but will have a better idea when it gets torn into.

I believe Porsche recommends changing the flywheel but as you mentioned if the specs are ok and looks good then run it a wee longer.

Thanks for the information!

Cheers,

Keith

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svansyoc Member

svansyoc

Posted
Posted

Just a side note on rms replacement, the purpose of the tool is not only to push in the seal, but also keep it square to the crankshaft. If you ever have one apart you may notice that the block case halves are not necessarily lined up with each other and if seal was drove in untill it was square with block, it would be installed not only at wrong depth but also not square to the crankshaft. svansyoc

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Jake Raby Member

Jake Raby

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I agree.. The seal being square in the bore is critical to success with these seal installations. Trust me, I hated to spend the 400 bucks for the RMS seal tool, having installed seals in all sorts of engines successfully without the need for any special tools..

This tool is a requirement if you want to do the job right...

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