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por986

Cleaning MAF: CRC haze on sensor

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Hi,

I followed Mike's tutorial on cleaning the MAF and when I removed the sensor, the wiring (specifically the paperclip looking one) was very shiny. After applying the cleaner and letting it dry, there appeared to be a light white haze left behind. Is this normal?

post-14292-1238956962_thumb.jpg

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Hi,

I followed Mike's tutorial on cleaning the MAF and when I removed the sensor, the wiring (specifically the paperclip looking one) was very shiny. After applying the cleaner and letting it dry, there appeared to be a light white haze left behind. Is this normal?

That is not MAF sensor cleaner.

This is what you need.

post-1-1238959423_thumb.jpg

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Loren,

Thanks for the reply. So I have seen the CRC MAF cleaner posted and it is also mentioned in Mike's tutorial, but my local AutoZone only had the CRC QD electronics cleaner which many have reported to have used. In his tutorial, Mike goes on to state that the MAF cleaner was possibly just a rebranding/naming of the one I have used and that others have reported no diff. Any other thoughts?

More importantly, do you think the haze will be a problem?

Edited by por986

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The MAF measures air flow over the surface - so if there is anything on the surface it will affect the air flow.

Either buy the correct stuff or use clean/new lacquer thinner.

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The MAF measures air flow over the surface - so if there is anything on the surface it will affect the air flow.

Either buy the correct stuff or use clean/new lacquer thinner.

Well, I would like to get Mike's thoughts on this as well as anyone else that would like to weigh in. The cleaner is listed as a viable cleaner for the MAF both in his tutorial and elsewhere.

Has anyone else used the CRC QD (quick dry) cleaner and if so, any feedback?

Thanks!

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I used what you used (just checked my supplies cabinet). I got no visible. residue. I've used it twice.

The can says "leaves no residue" (see bottom front).

No idea why you have residue.

I based my supposition that the contents of the cans was the same based on a list of the contents of both cans IIRC. It makes sense that a relabel of the can would make it more easily identifiable as to function in an automotive store.

If you find this is not correct, please post and I'll be glad to change my page...

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Mike,

Thanks for the input. I don't think there is a difference in the cleaners, but I am not sure why a 'haze' was left over on mine. In thinking about it, I was in direct sunlight when I sprayed and let the sensor dry, so that might have something to do with it.

I drove it for a few hours (at times very aggressively) and I didn't notice any adverse affects, so everything appears fine at the moment. I will drive it all of next week and open it up again and take a look/re-clean it. I will let you know what I find.

Thanks!

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A quick check at CRC Products website shows 2 different products for 2 different applications. They still make the MAF Cleaner. If they make 2 different products, I'm sure there's a reason.

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I used the QD Electronic Cleaner that says it leaves no residue, same as you, and it seemed to clean my MAF fine. I didn't notice any residue. After driving with a few tanks, I determined that solved my CEL, so I bought a new MAF. I followed the directions on Mike Focke's excellent web page, including the electronic cleaner. I don't doubt the MAF sensor cleaner Loren referenced would probably work a little better, but I couldn't find the stuff when I went to AutoZone. Either spray can will probably do more MAF cleanings than you could possibly need in a lifetime

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I relooked at the CRC website

and at the specs in about 20 categories for the two cans we are discussing and I could find no differences. Only I now notice that they advertise/label-the-can of the Electronics Cleaner as for Marine use. So I really do think they are just changing the exterior packaging.

If you cleaned the MAF and that seemed to cure things, I don't understand why you'd buy a new MAF and swap it in. What would the new one do that the cleaned one didn't except lighten your wallet.

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Thanks everyone for the thorough discussion thus far. Mike, I appreciate you taking your time to research this further.

First day driving to work with lots of traffic and a few break-aways, and everything seems rock solid still.

Just a little background, I have a 2001S with just over 52K. Over the past 3 months, I received two CELs (P1128) which seemed cleared on their own - I had no idle issues or anything indicating a problem aside from the codes. I figured I was due to clean the MAF and ultimately the Throttle Body (which I haven't done yet).

I look forward to cracking it open this coming weekend and taking another look. I will throw some macro pictures up this time around.

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Thanks everyone for the thorough discussion thus far. Mike, I appreciate you taking your time to research this further.

First day driving to work with lots of traffic and a few break-aways, and everything seems rock solid still.

Just a little background, I have a 2001S with just over 52K. Over the past 3 months, I received two CELs (P1128) which seemed cleared on their own - I had no idle issues or anything indicating a problem aside from the codes. I figured I was due to clean the MAF and ultimately the Throttle Body (which I haven't done yet).

I look forward to cracking it open this coming weekend and taking another look. I will throw some macro pictures up this time around.

Advance Auto sells both products and whereas the MAF cleaner does cost a couple dollars more a clerk overhearing my question about the products being the same said definitely not exactly the same, get the MAF cleaner. You judge, point is Advance Auto sells the MAF Cleaner.

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CRC did reply to my query and said they couldn't tell me the difference (proprietary information as to formula) but there was a difference between the two products.

I have changed my web site.

Still, I did use the marine electronics cleaner and I know others have used it with success.

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the 987 models have a new security screw that prevents getting at the MAF, the new screw has 5 prongs instead of the standard 6 prongs. I was able to unscrew it using a small flathead with patience...

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I used electronic parts cleaner (CRC) and it has worked fine. I've gone about 200 miles with no CE light. I never did notice any change in the way it ran even when it threw the CE light.

If CRC could not even tell you the difference in the two products, it sure seems like they just put a different label on it to market it for MAF cleaning.

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I agree with Loren and have myself used the proper product. I had no hazing with the MAF Sensor Cleaner. Trust the experts here and use the correct product for the best results.

If you are a interested in the differences of the CRC Products, their website offers product specifications. Both products ( MAF Sensor Cleaner & the QD Contact cleaner) use different propellants. Most noticeable is that the MAF Sensor Cleaner has a much higher evaporation rate (9) than that of the QD Cleaner (>1).

Edited by rprieto

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