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markdav

P1341 - what could this be

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Boxster 2000, 2.7 Manual.

Slight stutter while pressing on the accelerator in 2nd gear turn (regular, not agressive)

CIL goes on.

OBD reports P1341

Cleared fault code, drove home normally (again, regular street, not agressive driving) , no light yet.

How concerned should I be?

Thanks in anticipation.

Cheers, Mark.

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P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit

Potential causes:

– Short to ground

– Actuator faulty

– Open circuit in triggering wire

– Open circuit in B+ supply

I would only be concerned if it comes back.

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Thanks Loren, Will keep an eye on this.

If it returns, remedy would seem to be

.. trace wiring and connector faults.

Actuator next?

Other causes?

Regards, Mark.

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Thanks Loren, Will keep an eye on this.

If it returns, remedy would seem to be

.. trace wiring and connector faults.

Actuator next?

Other causes?

Regards, Mark.

If it is not a connector or wire then it is likely a bad actuator.

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Looks like it is bad. Fault code came back.

Is this easy to access to change out? Through the wheel arch / top or through service cover? The diagrams don't make it clear whether I need to remove the cam cover to replace the solenoid which would add a few hours to the job. I saw the other post of removing the cover to replace the tensioner.

Also one other thing - any advice on how to test it really is the solenoid and not the tensioner? Is there an electrical test I can do easily?

Thanks for advice,

Mark.

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Check triggering wire for short to ground.

1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness ( DME control module connector).

2. Remove connector of actuator.

3. Connect ohmmeter to pin V/1 and ground.

Display: infinite ohms

If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring for chafing and pinching damage.

Check B+ supply of actuator.

1. Remove connector of actuator.

2. Connect voltmeter to connector, pin 1, and ground. Switch on the ignition.

Display: battery voltage

Check triggering wire for continuity.

1. Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness ( DME control module connector).

2. Remove connector of actuator.

3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9637, pin V/1, and connector, pin 2.

Display: 0 - 5 ohms

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Thanks Loren,

All checked through OK and the light went away this morning.

Also I am getting 13.5ohms across the actuator pins. Does this sound right?

Perhaps bad connection (though at 1 amp (~12v/~13ohms) seems strange).

Thanks, Mark.

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Thanks Loren,

All checked through OK and the light went away this morning.

Also I am getting 13.5ohms across the actuator pins. Does this sound right?

Perhaps bad connection (though at 1 amp (~12v/~13ohms) seems strange).

Thanks, Mark.

Should be 0 to 5 ohms.

Yes, I would check for a bad connector wiring issue.

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Thanks Loren,

All checked through OK and the light went away this morning.

Also I am getting 13.5ohms across the actuator pins. Does this sound right?

Perhaps bad connection (though at 1 amp (~12v/~13ohms) seems strange).

Thanks, Mark.

Should be 0 to 5 ohms.

Yes, I would check for a bad connector wiring issue.

Hi all, i think i have a related problem to what i have been reading in this thread. I have a '99 C4 Cab. a few weeks ago i noticed a rough idle when warm and the check engine light came on. one shop read the code as P1341 and then cleared it and wants to replace the tensioner for around $2200. CEL came back after 50 miles or so, so i got a second opinion. The second opinion read the fault and wants to replace the timing chain sensor for around $600. Who do i believe?

Thanks in advance

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Camshaft position sensor should be a different fault code, P1341 refers to the actuator, as Loren already indicated.

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Camshaft position sensor should be a different fault code, P1341 refers to the actuator, as Loren already indicated.

Thanks, I appreciate the confirmation. I suspected as much but wanted to make sure before diggin in for $2K!

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Hi All,

 

I have a 2001 996 Turbo with about 58K miles on it.  For the past ~3 years it's sporadically thrown p1341 code.  When it initially happened my mechanic changed analyzed it and saw it wasn't advancing / going back at the correct rate.  He was able to trigger the change with the tester so could easily see there was a problem.  He checked out all the electrical items and decided the solenoid was most likely bad.  He replaced that but the problem persisted.

 

Upon his suggestion I continued to drive the car.  Over the course of the next 2 years it through the code a couple of times every year but never seem to run rough.  The problem started to bother me over the last 6 months and I perceived the car to stumble at times and it seemed to coincide with when the CEL came on and it was p1341.  So I brought the car to my mechanic to have the actuator replaced.

 

My mechanic dropped the engine and took it apart.  He said the internals of the engine were pristine - no gunk in the oil, no dirt, etc.  He replaced the actuator but also tested the old actuator - there was no sticking.  Upon putting the car back together he tested and still sees the slow advance / retard and a pending CEL for P1341.  

 

At this point we're stumped.  Any suggestion?  To recap - all electrical lines were tested including swapping the left and right (he made an extension cable), the solenoid has been changed and the actuator has been changed.  As I drove the car home from his shop it turned on the CEL.

 

I'd appreciate any suggestions!

 

Thanks,

Steve

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Did he run the oscilloscope test as described here? http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48439-p1341-code-engine-cuts-off-at-4k-rpms/?hl=p1341

 

Also when you said the electrical lines were swapped, did you mean the tech made an extension to connect the Bank 2 solenoid connector to the Bank 1 solenoid. So basically use the Bank 2 wiring to power the Bank 1 solenoid. He then used Durametric to trigger the Bank 2 solenoid and observed that the Bank 1 solenoid was indeed triggered but the Bank 1 timing adv/retard reaction was slower than expected?

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Sorry it's been so long since an update.  I was out of town and have finally had the car at my local dealer for the last 1.5 weeks.  Just a reminder, it's an '01 Turbo and it's almost completely stock.  The only non-stock item in the drivetrain is the blow-off valves.

 

Anyway, the dealer has been diagnosing it and has come to the conclusion it's not electrical.  They hooked up their tester and was able to see map the slow advance of banks 1-3 vs 4-6.  They were able to reproduce this 3 ways (my understanding): 1) with the cars computer hooked up 2) with the tester hooked up and telling the computer to do it and 3) with a 9 volt batter directly attached to the solenoid.  All 3 ways they were able to see the slow advance on that bank.

 

Previously my private mechanic has changed the solenoid (3 times) and has also had the engine out to change the variocam accumulator.  The problem has persisted.  When he was in the engine he said it was beautiful, totally clean, so didn't see any cause of oil restriction.  He didn't do an exhaustive search as the problem seemed to be due to the accumulator.

 

At this point my dealer wants $3800 just to take the engine out to explore.  They can't tell me what worst case scenario would be (cost wise) other than to say "new engine".  I'd like a better understanding what the issue could be and how much I may be in for.  I may just choose to jettison the car. :(  I really have my eye on a new GT3. :)

 

Any help is appreciated!

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Sorry it's been so long since an update.  I was out of town and have finally had the car at my local dealer for the last 1.5 weeks.  Just a reminder, it's an '01 Turbo and it's almost completely stock.  The only non-stock item in the drivetrain is the blow-off valves.

 

Anyway, the dealer has been diagnosing it and has come to the conclusion it's not electrical.  They hooked up their tester and was able to see map the slow advance of banks 1-3 vs 4-6.  They were able to reproduce this 3 ways (my understanding): 1) with the cars computer hooked up 2) with the tester hooked up and telling the computer to do it and 3) with a 9 volt batter directly attached to the solenoid.  All 3 ways they were able to see the slow advance on that bank.

 

Previously my private mechanic has changed the solenoid (3 times) and has also had the engine out to change the variocam accumulator.  The problem has persisted.  When he was in the engine he said it was beautiful, totally clean, so didn't see any cause of oil restriction.  He didn't do an exhaustive search as the problem seemed to be due to the accumulator.

 

At this point my dealer wants $3800 just to take the engine out to explore.  They can't tell me what worst case scenario would be (cost wise) other than to say "new engine".  I'd like a better understanding what the issue could be and how much I may be in for.  I may just choose to jettison the car. :(  I really have my eye on a new GT3. :)

 

Any help is appreciated!

 

Even when the engine is otherwise immaculate clean inside, the rather tiny oil passages in this system can become blocked by small bits of loose plastic from sealant squeeze out or other plastic bits in the engine.  These are not easy to remove without dropping the engine and taking at least some of it apart.

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