Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

ECU & DME Removal DIY

Recommended Posts

ECU & DME Removal DIY

If you guys are thinking of a re-flash and/or want to change the software on your 996 or 997, it may be necessary to remove the ECU from the car yourself. We actually wrote up a DIY for this on our site so I figured I'd share it On hardtop models, the ECU is attached to a tray behind the back seats, and is generally blocked by the Bose subwoofer system which also has to be removed. The process takes about 15-30 minutes or less. If your car is a cabriolet, you will need to follow another set of


Edited by sharkster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Removing the ECU Carpet Cover and ECU Tray

Now you must remove the carpeted cover over the ECU tray.

First pull up from the middle-rear of the carpet:



To pull the carpet out, it must bow-up in the middle as shown in the picture, to allow the sides to be removed. Then it pulls straight-up and out of the car.


With the ECU tray exposed, locate the 10mm nut in the center of the trays and remove it.



Next remove the two 10mm nuts on the left side of the tray:





Now you can pull the left side of the tray up. It is an aluminum piece with a foam block attached to it.

The ECU tray can now be flipped over. Before you do, push the carpet in at the corner as shown in the picture below. Do not disconnect any cables at this time.




Removing the ECU and Cables


With the tray inverted, remove the four T30 Torx bolts (two per side) holding the smaller module to the ECU tray. Do not disconnect it.


Set the black module up and out of the way, and you can now disconnect the ECU.


Remove the cables in order, from left to right (first 1, 2, 3, 4, then 5). The far left and far right cables are removed by squeezing tabs at the top:


The inner connections are removed by first pressing the button (A) and rotating the keeper to the left (B). No extra force should be required: The connections will pop-out on their own as you release this keeper system.


The ECU has been removed from the car, and is now ready to send to SharkWerks for the EVOMSit Software Upgrade!


Reinstalling the ECU

Re-install the ECU's connectors in the opposite order of removed (first 5, 4, 3, 2, then 1). The inner connectors will lock in automatically as the keeper is rotated. Make sure they are rotated fully to the left (as they were removed) before you attempt to re-install.

Be extra careful when tightening the T30 Torx bolts that hold the rear seat receivers, as the surrounding material is particularly susceptible to dents and damage.

When replacing the negative battery cable, ensure it's fully pressed onto the terminal before tightening the 10mm nut. Tighten the battery negative until it's snug. Since it is lead, it should never be torqued extremely tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.