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Hookoo3

Replaced top-trouble with closing

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I replaced my top about a month ago with a new glass window top. After a month I still can't get the top to close on it's own. I can just close it now by pulling hard whereas at first I needed 2 people to pull it closed. I didn't replace the sliders with new ones and used the existing ones. I wasn't successful in removing the sliders during the top replacement without breaking the little tabs however I just put them back in. Would the faulty sliders have an impact on the top not closing fully on its own. I have had the top in the hot sun and closed for the majority of a month except when driving so the top material should be stretched by now. The top does close properly(after pulling) and the cables are well aligned. Is there an adjustment I can make or are the sliders having an impact on closing? The gap as about 3/4 of an inch before I pull the top closed. If I drive with the top up I can hear the top flexing for a brief moment. What should be the next step to adjust the top? Are the sliders the problem? Is there a way to replace the sliders without taking the entire top off again? Are there other adjustments I can look at? Thanks

Hookoo3

2001 Boxster S

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I replaced my top about a month ago with a new glass window top. After a month I still can't get the top to close on it's own. I can just close it now by pulling hard whereas at first I needed 2 people to pull it closed. I didn't replace the sliders with new ones and used the existing ones. I wasn't successful in removing the sliders during the top replacement without breaking the little tabs however I just put them back in. Would the faulty sliders have an impact on the top not closing fully on its own. I have had the top in the hot sun and closed for the majority of a month except when driving so the top material should be stretched by now. The top does close properly(after pulling) and the cables are well aligned. Is there an adjustment I can make or are the sliders having an impact on closing? The gap as about 3/4 of an inch before I pull the top closed. If I drive with the top up I can hear the top flexing for a brief moment. What should be the next step to adjust the top? Are the sliders the problem? Is there a way to replace the sliders without taking the entire top off again? Are there other adjustments I can look at? Thanks

Hookoo3

2001 Boxster S

Hookoo3:

The sliders do not have that kind of an effect on the 3/4 inch gap that you are getting when closing the top.

There are two places to start to try to make an adjustment:

1. The front pushrods (the ones ending in the plastic ball cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the other side).

Try lengthening the front pushrods by loosening the 10mm nut with thick washer. Before you loosen that nut, mark the position where the two parts of the pushrod meet so that you will have a reference point.

2. The "tension ropes" at the rear main bow....

If you "lengthen" them by means of the 14mm adjustment nut near the steel ball at the lower end of the tension rope, it may give you a little more movement towards the front.

Regards, Maurice.

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There are two places to start to try to make an adjustment:

1. The front pushrods (the ones ending in the plastic ball cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the other side).

Try lengthening the front pushrods by loosening the 10mm nut with thick washer. Before you loosen that nut, mark the position where the two parts of the pushrod meet so that you will have a reference point.

2. The "tension ropes" at the rear main bow....

If you "lengthen" them by means of the 14mm adjustment nut near the steel ball at the lower end of the tension rope, it may give you a little more movement towards the front.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice

I have the same issue with one side of my top, and I've lengthened the pushrod as far as it will go. Still have 1/2" to 3/4" gap on drivers side, just enough that I have to hold the roof down with one hand while latching with the other.

So I want to lengthen the tension rope on the drivers side......I can find it in the parts drawing, but can't find it on the car. Do I need to remove the inside liner to access the tension rope? What position should the top be in to get best access?

Thanks

03BoxsterS

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Hi Maurice

I have the same issue with one side of my top, and I've lengthened the pushrod as far as it will go. Still have 1/2" to 3/4" gap on drivers side, just enough that I have to hold the roof down with one hand while latching with the other.

So I want to lengthen the tension rope on the drivers side......I can find it in the parts drawing, but can't find it on the car. Do I need to remove the inside liner to access the tension rope? What position should the top be in to get best access?

Thanks

03BoxsterS

Aside from lengthening the actual pushrod (by pulling apart the two parts that it consists of), you can also get a little more distance by unscrewing the plastic ball cup at its end by a few turns.

As to "lengthening" the tension rope, that is done by turning the 14mm bolt clockwise (IIRC) so that the steel ball rises. Then when the tension rope's steel ball cup at the end of that cable is pressed onto the steel ball, the rear main bow will not be pulled down and back as far as before the adjustment. That will allow the front edge of the canvas roof to go a little more forward.

It's a balance, so you have to evaluate how much of an adjustment to make at each point.

The tension rope is located at the rear of the convertible top. under the rear main bow, to the right and left of the carpet cover which covers the engine compartment lid. The 14mm bolt is found just inboard of the lower steel ball cup when the tension rope is attached and pressed on.

You can access the adjustment bolt when the top is nearly closed (4 to 8 inches open) by reaching under the rear main bow. You can pull up on the rear main bow, but a glass-windowed OEM top (i.e., 2003-2004) on a 986, you must be careful with the higher edge of the rear window to insure that it does not press too hard on the rear horizontal surface of the roll bar.

"Unlatching" the black plastic bar at the trailing edge of the vinyl apron will allow you to better see the bottom of the tension rope and the 14mm adjustment bolt. The roof liner itself is not in the way.

Regards, Maurice.

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Hi Maurice, thanks for the info. I do have the top adjusted to a good forward position now. I adjusted the push rod about 3/16 longer. As the top comes into the closed position the forward tab is just a bit high and I now need to hold it down slightly to fit into the closed position. Will tightening the tension rope bring the leading edge slightly down? Or should I just leave it for a few days to see if it adjusts to this new position? Again thanks for your help.

Hookoo3

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Two turns on the white plastic ball cup did it, Maurice. Thanks very much for your detailed directions and also adding a lot of "why this works" explanations. The top can now be latched with one hand as per the design. There is still a little gap on the drivers side, so I may eventually mess around with the tension rope, but at this point it is splitting hairs.

Thanks again,

03BoxsterS

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Two turns on the white plastic ball cup did it, Maurice. Thanks very much for your detailed directions and also adding a lot of "why this works" explanations. The top can now be latched with one hand as per the design. There is still a little gap on the drivers side, so I may eventually mess around with the tension rope, but at this point it is splitting hairs.

Thanks again,

03BoxsterS

Anytime! I'm glad it helped.

You may be able to eliminate, or at least lessen, the little gap on the driver's side by unscrewing the white plastic ball cup by one more turn (as long as there are enough threads remaining to make a solid connection between the ball cup and the threaded portion of the pushrod.

Not changing the length of the passenger's side pushrod, and increasing the length of the driver's side pushrod, should, in effect bring the front edge of the canvas top on the driver's side a little further forward toward the horizontal top edge of the windshield frame.

Since you already have some practice on unscrewing the white plastic ball cups, it might be easy enough now for you to try that method.

The tension ropes can be adjusted later, if necessary, but I think you won't have to go there.

Let us know if you try it and if it works. I'm sure others who come this way later will appreciate your input.

Regards, Maurice.

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Hi Maurice, thanks for the info. I do have the top adjusted to a good forward position now. I adjusted the push rod about 3/16 longer. As the top comes into the closed position the forward tab is just a bit high and I now need to hold it down slightly to fit into the closed position. Will tightening the tension rope bring the leading edge slightly down? Or should I just leave it for a few days to see if it adjusts to this new position? Again thanks for your help.

Hookoo3

Hookoo3:

I would leave it for a few days, especially if you can have the sun beating down on it. The canvas may "relax" to allow that tab to come down enough to eliminate the issue. Monitor it (or measure it) when the tab is near the receptacle every couple of days and see if it improves, however slightly. That will tell you if you should try to make further adjustments or leave it alone.

The tension rope pulls the rear main bow down and back and it could possibly affect the leading edge position, but not in a direct linear relationship. It's easy enough to try, as long as you carefully monitor the original position of the 14mm nut before you start to adjust it. It's easy to lose track of the original position and then you won't have your starting point as a reference. Take some nail polish and mark a radius on the top of the 14mm bolt at the 12 o'clock position and let it dry. Then you'll easily be able to return to the original position, if necessary.

As to your earlier question regarding replacing the sliders, it can be done without removing the entire top (or, more accurately, without stripping the entire top off the frame). Take a look at the write-up on Mike Focke's website on "Replacing the top DIY". I included some photos of the sliders in one of the sections. If you read that section and some of the paragraphs before and after the section, you should be able to figure out how to replace the slider. Pay particular attention to the caution regarding stripping the threads inside the underside of the magnesium frame, where the screw fastens the little arm of the slider and especially where the other screw fastens the cable. Those two screws are the only screws that attach the bottom of the slider and they be accessed by moving the top into different positions.

Regards, Maurice.

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