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scb71

996 Ignition Switch replace (just the switch) with pictures

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THANK YOU SO MUCH! I went from depression to DIY joy in the last two hours since the switch started falling and left the car stuck in position 1 even after the key was removed. I"m now good to go.. for $11.45.

Best

Keith

Edited by thewump

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Great DIY, MANY thanks!! Only 1 comment: after about an hour of fiddling and cursing I realized that the switch I ordered from Pelican is not identical to the one that was in the car originally. In fact the part where it mates up with the barrel (mechanical part) was significantly longer so that it could not match or fit in. Went to Autozone and they showed the same part as Pelican, same for Checker. Ended up ordering the right part from my local specialist, he said that they may have changed the switch body during that model year. The moral of this story is visually verify that the parts are identical on the mechanical (not electrical) side and you can save a little trouble (also the correct one in my case is white and all the wrong fitting ones were black (like the one in the forum pics - that one wouldn't have worked for me) so maybe color could help in identification). Took 20 mins with the right part.

Thx again! ;)

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Great DIY. I just ordered the part from Napa. Will take a few days to get here but it will be nice to have it work properly.

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Just a word to the wise; if you buy the part at an auto parts store for $10 or so, you will get a Chinese knock-off that will work fine, but only for a little while. Trust me, buy the $50 OEM Audi part from Suncoast Porsche or whereever. Otherwise, you will be replacing the part again in a couple thousand miles like I did! On the upside, it will only take you 30 minutes or less the second time!!

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I did this job in about 45 mins. Its a tight squeeze under there but it all went well. The one thing I can add is when putting the vents back together under the dash you should connect the elbow that goes up to the dash to the center section of the tube first. If you screw the elbow in to the dash first it makes it almost impossible to connect it to the center tube. Just attach it and then put the elbow in and screw it on. The other side is easy and just snaps in. Great DIY and saved me a lot of money having the stealer do it.

Edited by Ozzir

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Great forum and a great DIY ..... I just completed changing the switch. I had the problem that the ignition key stuck in the switch and the parking lights wouldn't turn off. Wiggling the key around got it out of the switch but the lights stayed on.... I removed the side vent prior to going under the dash but I found that I didn't need to. I had no problem getting to both screws that hold the switch in place from under the dash. Took me about 45 minutes I think it would have been about 25 if I didn't take the side vent apart. It was fiddly to put back in.

2001 C4 130,000km

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My 2001 Carrera with only 14,000 miles has the infamous ignition switch problem. Twice I have not been able to get the key out of the ignition without a lot of jiggling and cursing.

I have read the posts and feel confident that I can handle the switch replacement job myself, but I have a few questions.

if I disconnect the battery, will I have to punch in the radio code after reconnecting the cable?

I ask this because I do not have the radio code. One of the posts states the switch was changed without disconnecting the battery.What are the risks?

Also, I assume that since most of you that were mechanically inclined enough to change your own switch, were also curious enough to open the failed part and look inside. Is the broken switch a mechanical or electrical failure and what is it that actually breaks and what is it that prevents the key from turning? When the key refuses to turn or release, is it because a broken piece of plastic or metal is floating around inside?

I ask this because there is no such thing as too much information.

Based on the replies, I am considering whether it makes sense load up the inside of my new switch with di-eletric (silicon) grease in case the failure is a breakdown of the factory lube.

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I did my switch today. Got the part from Pelican, and it was a direct exact replacement.

I did NOT take off the side vent, just removed vent connector duct (part "A" in the DIY), and used a very short flat head driver bit to remove the set screws.(see pic) I'm small and flexible, so it wasn't too hard. Maybe 20 minutes total. The small flat head driver made it possible. I was able to unscrew the setscrews using only the driver held between my thumb and finger.

8728580957_37e8e82f0f_c.jpg

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Just changed out the switch using these instructions. Took me approx one hour to complete the repair. Fantastic directions. I did not disconnect the battery as described in step 1, and everything was completed without a glitch.

One comment i would add is the following. Be careful when you are pulling out the Ventilation face plate after removal of the three torx screws. The unit is held in place by two plastic clips, one at the top and one at the bottom, and secured down by the three torx screws.

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.

One comment i would add is the following. Be careful when you are pulling out the Ventilation face plate after removal of the three torx screws. The unit is held in place by two plastic clips, one at the top and one at the bottom, and secured down by the three torx screws.

I will say that it is not necessary to remove the side vent at all. There is enough compressibility in the crossing duct to get it out of there without take the side vent out at all - this obviously only works if you are just replacing the switch itself. Steering lock assembly in different

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Now, the $64k question...how do I do this (R&R switch) on a 2009 997.2?

If you need to replace the ignition switch in 2009 997-2 - then please post in the 997-2 section. This is the 996 section and the problem and repair are completely different.

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Thank you for the great DIY! Worked perfectly as advertised. It took me about one hour total. The beer will have to happen later this evening though!  :thumbup:

 

One problem to solve is now the PCM Code message on the PCM/NAV. I have to find the right code to enter.

 

 
post-99054-0-58827100-1416603271_thumb.j

 

post-99054-0-58827100-1416603271_thumb.j

Edited by rudedog

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Good DIY.  I was having a problem where the key was difficult to get in, the radio and "ding ding ding" would continue on after the key was out, the remote would not lock/unlock the car (even though the LEDs near the wind shield were lighting up), and the blower would intermittently not work.

 

After replacement - all is good.  I used the Audi part number that was stamped on the original part.

 

I also had one of these "Teeny Turner" multi-bit screw drivers and it was the perfect size for the job.  As others have said, you need a very short screw driver with a narrow, flat head.  It's a lot like the set screws on a towel bar or toilet paper holder that you might have in your bathroom...lol

https://www.amazon.com/Picquic-06102-Turner-Driver-Assorted/dp/B001QVPHBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467985502&sr=8-1&keywords=teeny+turner

 

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Thank you very much for this DIY.  I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab and my ignition problem began with the ignition key springing back clockwise about a quarter of an inch after turning off the car.  I had to twist and jiggle the key to remove it and sometimes the car would complain "key still in ignition".  Also, the steering column would rarely lock.  No electrical problems like others have reported but I'm sure that was coming.

 

I picked up the Audi switch from a dealer, part number 4A0-905-849-B, and paid on the high end ($35).  I see the same part on Amazon for $11: Ignition Switch.  Not complaining though.

 

I took it slow and the whole process took me just under an hour.  I have large hands so it was helpful for me to also remove the short elbow duct behind the driver side vent - there is only a single philips-head screw holding it.  I used an eyeglass screwdriver to loosen the set screws; they're not so tight you need a lot of torque to loosen them.  Also, you only need to loosen the set screws a small amount to remove the switch.  Do not loosen the set screws too much or they might fall out and you will burn time finding them and getting them back in (speaking from experience).

 

The ignition works beautifully now and I wouldn't hesitate to do this replacement again.  Thanks scb71!

Edited by Coaster

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When I did mine recently, I discovered one of the grub screws had been replaced with a longer screw that allowed me to turn it loose with just my fingers.  After wrestling with a tiny screwdrive to loosem the other orignial grub screw, I replaced it also with a linger standard screw, which I sharpened the tip with grinder first.  Now I should be able to do it next time tool free, and MUCH easier.

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Screw is M4 x .7 thread.  One I used was approximately 20mm in length.  

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Two weeks after acquiring my 996, the ignition switch decided to not work as designed.  I bought the switch on Amazon that week.  This weekend I changed it out after a salmon fishing trip.  Usually I don't want to do much after cleaning fish and the boat, but I decided to tackle this job.  The instructions were instrumental in making this job a piece of cake. 

 

At 62, I an not real good at limbo dancing anymore.  I was able to do the job without climbing under the dash. I was just barely able to see the bottom set screw through the vent rough opening space.  Just barely.  Good enough to be able to loosen and tighten the set screw.

 

The job was a little of a pain in the butt, however all went well and now life is all good again.

 

Thanks again for the great help.

Doug Vazquez

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26 minutes ago, Doug Vazquez said:

Two weeks after acquiring my 996, the ignition switch decided to not work as designed.  I bought the switch on Amazon that week.  This weekend I changed it out after a salmon fishing trip.  Usually I don't want to do much after cleaning fish and the boat, but I decided to tackle this job.  The instructions were instrumental in making this job a piece of cake. 

 

At 62, I an not real good at limbo dancing anymore.  I was able to do the job without climbing under the dash. I was just barely able to see the bottom set screw through the vent rough opening space.  Just barely.  Good enough to be able to loosen and tighten the set screw.

 

The job was a little of a pain in the butt, however all went well and now life is all good again.

 

Thanks again for the great help.

Doug Vazquez

 

:thumbup:

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