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Hi,

I've taken a day or so to search for this all over and found nothing that helps.

Can anyone sugggest a way to adjust the door stops on my 2007 C2 Coupe? The outside door panels on both driver and passenger sides are not perfectly flush when I close the doors. They are only off 1/16th of an inch or so. I dont have any air or water leaks. Its not a big deal but its been bothering me as of late. Its just not perfect like the rest of the car. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in but I'd rather not.

Anyone know how to adjust this?

I'd appreciate it.

Thanks, Joe D

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Hi,

I've taken a day or so to search for this all over and found nothing that helps.

Can anyone sugggest a way to adjust the door stops on my 2007 C2 Coupe? The outside door panels on both driver and passenger sides are not perfectly flush when I close the doors. They are only off 1/16th of an inch or so. I dont have any air or water leaks. Its not a big deal but its been bothering me as of late. Its just not perfect like the rest of the car. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in but I'd rather not.

Anyone know how to adjust this?

I'd appreciate it.

Thanks, Joe D

I hope I understood your explanations correct.

If your doors are on the side where the doorlock are a little outwards in comparison to the chassis (B-pillar), then - believe it or not - that's how it must be, because otherwise you have wind noise at high speeds.

It's not a bug, it's a feature.

Cheers.

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I hope I understood your explanations correct.

If your doors are on the side where the doorlock are a little outwards in comparison to the chassis (B-pillar), then - believe it or not - that's how it must be, because otherwise you have wind noise at high speeds.

It's not a bug, it's a feature.

Cheers.

Aha! Just the answer I was praying for. I should have known it was nothing. That puts my mind at ease.

Thanks! Joe D.

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If your doors are on the side where the doorlock are a little outwards in comparison to the chassis (B-pillar), then - believe it or not - that's how it must be, because otherwise you have wind noise at high speeds.

It's not a bug, it's a feature.

Cheers.

Aha! Just the answer I was praying for. I should have known it was nothing. That puts my mind at ease.

Thanks! Joe D.

I went to a local Porsche dealership and looked at the new 911's. My doors are out further than the new one's are (when they are closed). So they will need adjustment. One tell-tale sign to me was the rubber molding along the beltline (by the bottom of the window) is not lining up with the molding (around the stationary rear seat window) before the B-pillar. It sticks out 1/8" farther than the molding before the b pillar.

That said, does anyone have a good method for adjusting the door lock depth? I want the door to close better and set a little deeper into the opening so it lines up properly.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Joe D.

Edited by Max405
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Its easy, youll need a some masking tape, hammer and manual impact driver with a bit that fits the 2 screws that hold the latch bar to the body, loosen them alittle, just enough to slide it inward to the vehicle the exact distance in question depending on your specific needs.

place masking tape near 3 edges of the latch bar on the body of the car. i recommend tape on both top and bottom and the last on the outside facing edge of the latch bar.

To use an Impact driver: place bit in the impact driver and then place the impact driver on the screw that holds the latch bar and twist the impact wrench counter clockwise 1/4 turn while on the screw, hold that tension and slam the back of the impact driver with a heavy hammer, reset your hand on the impact driver, twist counter clockwise again and hit it again until the screws move, and then twist them out 2-3 turns or enough to slide the latch bar around but snug enough to hold the latch in place while your not holding it.

once you've got it where you want it, first tighten screws manually then place the impact driver on the latch bar screws, twist Clockwise now and hit the back of the impact driver with the hammer to tighten it, usually 2-3 hard slams does the job.

Edited by CJ_Boxster
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Its easy, youll need a some masking tape, hammer and manual impact driver with a bit that fits the 2 screws that hold the latch bar to the body, loosen them alittle, just enough to slide it inward to the vehicle the exact distance in question depending on your specific needs.

place masking tape near 3 edges of the latch bar on the body of the car. i recommend tape on both top and bottom and the last on the outside facing edge of the latch bar.

To use an Impact driver: place bit in the impact driver and then place the impact driver on the screw that holds the latch bar and twist the impact wrench counter clockwise 1/4 turn while on the screw, hold that tension and slam the back of the impact driver with a heavy hammer, reset your hand on the impact driver, twist counter clockwise again and hit it again until the screws move, and then twist them out 2-3 turns or enough to slide the latch bar around but snug enough to hold the latch in place while your not holding it.

once you've got it where you want it, first tighten screws manually then place the impact driver on the latch bar screws, twist Clockwise now and hit the back of the impact driver with the hammer to tighten it, usually 2-3 hard slams does the job.

Thanks for the response. I actually thought it would be easier than that. Considering I wouldnt know the difference between an impact driver and a TV remote, I'll probably leave this to an expert.

I really appreciate the time you spent trying to help me.

Thanks, Joe D

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Its easy, youll need a some masking tape, hammer and manual impact driver with a bit that fits the 2 screws...

Ok, I am trying it. Any idea what kind of bit I'll need to buy for this? Is it a Torx? Or a Triple Square? I'll need the size too..

JD

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just an FYI on my DIY...

I tried fixing this with a regular ratchet wrench and a t40 bit. It turns out the bolts were VERY loose. Not only the latch bar, but also the 2 bolts that hold the latch to the door. I moved them to the perfect spot, snugged them up and now the doors are perfectly aligned and I even hear less rattling when I hit big bumps.

I think someone fell asleep on the assembly line.

My baby is perfect now!

Joe D.

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Good catch. You will need an impact driver to tighten it properly. It's suppose to be super f'n tight. It's also a safety hazard if they aren't tight enough, plus if it slides again if you hit a hard enough bump the plate will slide and scratch your door jam.

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Good catch. You will need an impact driver to tighten it properly. It's suppose to be super f'n tight. It's also a safety hazard if they aren't tight enough, plus if it slides again if you hit a hard enough bump the plate will slide and scratch your door jam.

Carlos,

Once again, I really appreciate you helping me. Just an FYI.. The T40 bit is not the correct bit. Its really a triple square and I dont have them. I've yet to find one in my area. I dont know what the triple square equivalent is to the t40, so I cant buy it online. Also, the torx bit that fits the latch mechanism on door is t30. That is a triple square as well. So both bolts were tightened with the wrong bit. I was able to crank it down good though.

Thanks, Joe D

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