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Loren, Its great that you have DIY's for almost everything but when I see terms like Bowden Cables, Actuating Levers, and Disengaging the spring from the sill I get intimidated. Is there a glossary of terms or do I just need more mechanical experience? Thanks, Dean

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The Bowden cables are just the metal cables that connect the actuating levers to the hood/trunk. The actuating levers are what you pull up on (the things you are going to repaint (the cables connect to the other end of the lever that is underneath the sill).

When you have the unit out you will see a spring that causes the hood/trunk release lever to return to the non-pulled (parked) position. You will need to remove it.

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  • 1 year later...
There is a DIY here.
I did this DIY over the weekend, painted the latches and everything came out fine except for one thing. When installing the assembly back in position I can't seem to get the actuating element to function correctly. When everything is first assembled hood and truck latches work fine. Once I drive the car come to a stop and open the drivers door the actuating element does not disengage and locks out the latches for hood and trunk access. So then I have to remove the whole assembly and reinstall. I done this twice I must be doing something wrong, however this whole thing seems very simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :help:
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Are you speaking of the solenoids for the actuating element, which is the white plastic piece with the hole shown in the DYI article? The two connectors for the memory switch are the only connectors I removed and replaced. I better check and make sure the connectors you speak of are in place, under the carpet correct?

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You are re-connecting the electrical connections to the locking solenoids right?

Loren,

Again I disassemble the unit from the sill, check the locking solenoid connection and then reassembled the unit. I check both latches and everything seemed fine. Closed the door, locked the car with the remote, unlocked the and checked the latches and everything work. Did this cycle one more time and everything work fine. Lock the car again and had dinner. I then went back out and unlocked the car with the remote, opened the door and the latches were locked again! :censored: This is driving me crazy. Any suggestions?

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Are you having any other electrical anomalies?

Does the alarm beep once when you lock the car?

Everything else seems to be in order horn does not beep when the car is locked. When installing the assembly the actuator must be fully extended with the locking device wire inserted inside the actuator white ring, correct?

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The reason I asked about other electrical issues is that mechanically and electrically it seems to work. You said you could close the door lock the car - then unlock it and it worked properly. Yet when you left the car for some time and came back it did not work. Here is how that alarm circuit works:

If, when the vehicle is locked, a door is unlocked after the 10-second inactive period, this is immediately actuated to 'Closed'. An alarm is triggered at the same time. If, when the vehicle is locked, a door is unlocked from the inside during the inactive period, the central locking system is unlocked and the alarm system is deactivated. (Protection against unintentional locking/activation).

If, within 15 seconds of switching on the 'External Electronics' output, movements in the vehicle are detected by the passenger compartment monitoring system, the central locking system is changed to the locked position and the alarm system is deactivated.

After the inactive period, the 'External Electronics' output is switched on if the alarm-triggering inputs, such as doors, convertible top, convertible top compartment cover, front luggage compartment and rear engine compartment, were inactive for the entire inactive period. If one of these inputs is active, the 'External Electronics' output is not switched on until this input becomes inactive and remains in this state for at least 10 seconds. The switched-on 'External Electronics' output cannot be deactivated again by activating one of the above inputs. The output is switched off when deactivation takes place.

If, within a period of less than 1 second after the first activation pulse, a second activation command is issued, the 'External Electronics' output is not switched on for one activation cycle. In this case, the central locking system is not secured, but only locked. This is acknowledged by signal 1 at the alarm horn and at the direction indicator light output, as well as during the deactivation period by the display type 3 at the alarm readiness display output and at the 'Door locked' display output. An opening command deletes the switch-off command.

If activation occurs by way of the emergency function (locking 3 times quickly), the 'External Electronics' output is not switched on for this activation cycle. This is acknowledged by signal 1 at the alarm horn and direction indicator light outputs, as well as by display type 2 at the alarm readiness display output. A deactivation command deletes this command.

So one possibility is that the alarm circuit seems to think the door is closed (it locks activation when the door is closed too). I guess you could try disconnecting the battery (save you radio stations and radio code first). Leave it disconnected for 5 minutes to be sure memory is cleared - then re-connect it and test again. Also, after disconnecting the battery the DME will need to relearn it's idle process - so the car may run a little rough but that will go away in a few minutes.
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The reason I asked about other electrical issues is that mechanically and electrically it seems to work. You said you could close the door lock the car - then unlock it and it worked properly. Yet when you left the car for some time and came back it did not work. Here is how that alarm circuit works:

If, when the vehicle is locked, a door is unlocked after the 10-second inactive period, this is immediately actuated to 'Closed'. An alarm is triggered at the same time. If, when the vehicle is locked, a door is unlocked from the inside during the inactive period, the central locking system is unlocked and the alarm system is deactivated. (Protection against unintentional locking/activation).

If, within 15 seconds of switching on the 'External Electronics' output, movements in the vehicle are detected by the passenger compartment monitoring system, the central locking system is changed to the locked position and the alarm system is deactivated.

After the inactive period, the 'External Electronics' output is switched on if the alarm-triggering inputs, such as doors, convertible top, convertible top compartment cover, front luggage compartment and rear engine compartment, were inactive for the entire inactive period. If one of these inputs is active, the 'External Electronics' output is not switched on until this input becomes inactive and remains in this state for at least 10 seconds. The switched-on 'External Electronics' output cannot be deactivated again by activating one of the above inputs. The output is switched off when deactivation takes place.

If, within a period of less than 1 second after the first activation pulse, a second activation command is issued, the 'External Electronics' output is not switched on for one activation cycle. In this case, the central locking system is not secured, but only locked. This is acknowledged by signal 1 at the alarm horn and at the direction indicator light output, as well as during the deactivation period by the display type 3 at the alarm readiness display output and at the 'Door locked' display output. An opening command deletes the switch-off command.

If activation occurs by way of the emergency function (locking 3 times quickly), the 'External Electronics' output is not switched on for this activation cycle. This is acknowledged by signal 1 at the alarm horn and direction indicator light outputs, as well as by display type 2 at the alarm readiness display output. A deactivation command deletes this command.

So one possibility is that the alarm circuit seems to think the door is closed (it locks activation when the door is closed too). I guess you could try disconnecting the battery (save you radio stations and radio code first). Leave it disconnected for 5 minutes to be sure memory is cleared - then re-connect it and test again. Also, after disconnecting the battery the DME will need to relearn it's idle process - so the car may run a little rough but that will go away in a few minutes.

I finally figured it out after about a 2 hour of removal, replacement and testing. All parts were work correctly the whole time! All that was wrong was the the metal wire that goes into the white actuator part was not bent enought towards the plunger. A bend with pliers solved the problem and I am back in business. Thanks, Loren for all you help. It always seems it is the simpliest thing that goes wrong.

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