Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sign in to follow this  
911mike

TT Rear Brake Pads/Clutch Accumulator

Recommended Posts

I bought new rear brake pads and went to install them yesterday but thought I'd check with TT owner's experience before tackling. I notice on the pads there are what appear to be weights or bearings of some kind sticking through the caliper. Are these supposed to be removed and re-installed on the new pads? The new pads don't have them but do have a flange and hole for them. Any other tips for changing these pads would be appreciated.

Also, how easy is it to replace the clutch accumulator? My pedal is stiff when cold, but as soon as the engine fires the pedal is good. Any ideas?

Edited by 911mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Thank you very much. I have a warranty on the car and will see if the accumulator is covered.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The build in membrane will leak internally after a few years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone want to 'loan' out their custom 27mm wrench? I will pay to rent it and ship it back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If planning to change your accumulator upgrade to the GT2 slave conversion kit that deletes it. EVO and SpeedTech both sell kits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Who else has done this? Replacing the slave cylinder looks like a tough job. I have the replacement parts but am considering paying some else to do the swap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have done so many of them on my lift, that I can do them in about 30-45 minutes normally... The key to making sure NOT to ruin the water lines is in my DIY elswhere here... Use a LARGE freezer baggie with the zip closure and make sure as you unscrew the unit that you keep the bag up over the whole of the unit and slave cylinder. I've done these for a number of members from sixspeeds and rennlist. Deckman, doing the accumilator is cake. Doing the slave cylincer is the painfull part of the job. Expect 4-5 hours at an indy. If you tackle this one yourself, the key is to lower the front trans mount a little (I loosened the front bolts until they only had about 1/4 inch left holting the trans in place) to give you access to the bolts that hold the slave in place. When you go to install the new unit, make sure the rod sits properly in the cup as you seat th unit and start the bolts into their threads on the case of the transmission.

And to the other member above recommending the GT2 upgrade... This is not an "Easy" upgrade and is far more costly than just replacing the accumilator... Upgrading the GT2 bits alone is gonna run $1000, not to include labor, and I don't think you're gonna do this one on jackstands. The time to consider the GT2 hydraulic upgrade is when doing a clutch replacement while you have access to everything at the time. I've got the GT2 clutch hydraulic upgrade done on mine, and love it, but it is not simple to do and not something I'd recommend over the accumilator unless you have an upgraded clutch kit, normally required for upgraded horsepower.

Mike

Edited by Mikelly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.