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Hi,

I got rear GT3 sway bar with tarett droplinks, now I want to put front 997 GT3 swaybar as well - could anybody confirm if it requires tarett droplinks as well or may be mounted with stock C2 droplinks?

If yes, could you please post a picture of how exactly it fits?

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Adding a sway bar to the front requires

draining and removing the front radiator hoses.

Most mechanics will tell you it is a pain.

I am sure the stock drop links would work, but the stock ones

are made real small and I would not trust them

to hold up to a stiffer sway bar.

Paul

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Adding a sway bar to the front requires

draining and removing the front radiator hoses.

Most mechanics will tell you it is a pain.

I am sure the stock drop links would work, but the stock ones

are made real small and I would not trust them

to hold up to a stiffer sway bar.

Paul

thank, I did not know that. Yes, I did not expect to drain coolant...

But it is also not a smart idea I think to keep stock swaybar in front having GT3 swaybar in rear. Hmm... Thanks, I got to scratch my head a bit now...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I run my car with a heavy sway bar in the rear. The

car handles alot better. The pictures I have seen

do not look bad.

It is not worth the hassle to me having a big front sway bar.

Paul

I just got GT3 rear bar installed on my '06 997 C2 several days ago with tarett links and I all can say - I do not understand why car did not come originally like this. They should have simply used GT3 suspension on all cars they make.

I used middle mount points so far but difference is really very noticeable.

Edited by utkinpol
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  • 1 month later...

I run my car with a heavy sway bar in the rear. The

car handles alot better. The pictures I have seen

do not look bad.

It is not worth the hassle to me having a big front sway bar.

Paul

I just got GT3 rear bar installed on my '06 997 C2 several days ago with tarett links and I all can say - I do not understand why car did not come originally like this. They should have simply used GT3 suspension on all cars they make.

I used middle mount points so far but difference is really very noticeable.

Hi utkinpol,

I'm thinking of doing the same.

Questions:

Did you install both front and rear?

How thick is your GT3 sway bar (Fr/Rr)?

How thick were the originals (Fr/Rr)?

Thanks,

Ken

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I run my car with a heavy sway bar in the rear. The

car handles alot better. The pictures I have seen

do not look bad.

It is not worth the hassle to me having a big front sway bar.

Paul

I just got GT3 rear bar installed on my '06 997 C2 several days ago with tarett links and I all can say - I do not understand why car did not come originally like this. They should have simply used GT3 suspension on all cars they make.

I used middle mount points so far but difference is really very noticeable.

Hi utkinpol,

I'm thinking of doing the same.

Questions:

Did you install both front and rear?

How thick is your GT3 sway bar (Fr/Rr)?

How thick were the originals (Fr/Rr)?

Thanks,

Ken

You must read the original post...

"got rear GT3 sway bar with tarett droplinks, now I want to put front 997 GT3 swaybar as well - could anybody confirm if it requires tarett droplinks as well or may be mounted with stock C2 droplinks? "

cheers.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...

Adding a sway bar to the front requires

draining and removing the front radiator hoses.

Most mechanics will tell you it is a pain.

I am sure the stock drop links would work, but the stock ones

are made real small and I would not trust them

to hold up to a stiffer sway bar.

Paul

This is flat out untrue.

You have to drop but not remove the front subframe to gain clearance and then carefully remove the swaybar.

No coolant hoses need to be detached or disturbed. Just takes a bit of care to prevent any damage.

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I ordered a rear GT-3 bar (2008 year) from Jeff at Sunset and it should arrive this weekend. I'll probably install it on Saturday. He would not comment on whether it worked well due to liability, but he did mention that many folks were ordering the rear only for C2's. According to his parts guide the drop link is the same so I'm staying with stock, however, the bushing are different which makes sense due to the diameter change. I'll take pictures and measurements if anyone is interested.

I went with factory due to lower cost and the fact that they are 'factory' makes me feel somewhat better.

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I run my car with a heavy sway bar in the rear. The

car handles alot better. The pictures I have seen

do not look bad.

It is not worth the hassle to me having a big front sway bar.

Paul

Paul,

I'm curious about this upgrade. Can you clarify what you mean by "better" in terms that I might understand? Is it steering feel? Sharper turn-in? Weight transfer under load?

I find that I run out of tire before I run out of chassis control, but I'm on street tires. Do you run race tires or neg. camber?

Mark

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What I mean by better is lower lap times. I noticed from pictures that

medium speed turns would cause the inside front wheel to

raise. It was like going thru the turn with three wheels.

The stiffer sway bar kept the car from rolling in the turns. This

gave me more contact patch on the asphlat. I was able to

not scrub off speed and my lap times went down.

I run street tires and I had the wheels aligned for track use.

Paul

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What I mean by better is lower lap times.  I noticed from pictures that

medium speed turns would cause the inside front wheel to

raise.  It was like going thru the turn with three wheels.

The stiffer sway bar kept the car from rolling in the turns.  This

gave me more contact patch on the asphlat.  I was able to

not scrub off speed and my lap times went down.

I run street tires and I had the wheels aligned for track use.

Paul

My definition of 'better' on the street would be to reduce the plowing that takes place during hard cornering with a stock suspension.

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What I mean by better is lower lap times. I noticed from pictures that

medium speed turns would cause the inside front wheel to

raise. It was like going thru the turn with three wheels.

The stiffer sway bar kept the car from rolling in the turns. This

gave me more contact patch on the asphlat. I was able to

not scrub off speed and my lap times went down.

I run street tires and I had the wheels aligned for track use.

Paul

A perfect explanation, thanks Paul. Sounds like a worthwhile upgrade.

What I mean by better is lower lap times.  I noticed from pictures that

medium speed turns would cause the inside front wheel to

raise.  It was like going thru the turn with three wheels.

The stiffer sway bar kept the car from rolling in the turns.  This

gave me more contact patch on the asphlat.  I was able to

not scrub off speed and my lap times went down.

I run street tires and I had the wheels aligned for track use.

Paul

My definition of 'better' on the street would be to reduce the plowing that takes place during hard cornering with a stock suspension.

I find that my car is sharp and direct on the street, and throttle cures any hint of understeer I experience. On the track, it's noticeable after the tires have been heat cycled a few times and are run hot, but not particularly before. I run stock camber too.

Mark

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What I mean by better is lower lap times.  I noticed from pictures that

medium speed turns would cause the inside front wheel to

raise.  It was like going thru the turn with three wheels.

The stiffer sway bar kept the car from rolling in the turns.  This

gave me more contact patch on the asphlat.  I was able to

not scrub off speed and my lap times went down.

I run street tires and I had the wheels aligned for track use.

Paul

A perfect explanation, thanks Paul.  Sounds like a worthwhile upgrade.  

What I mean by better is lower lap times.  I noticed from pictures that

medium speed turns would cause the inside front wheel to

raise.  It was like going thru the turn with three wheels.

The stiffer sway bar kept the car from rolling in the turns.  This

gave me more contact patch on the asphlat.  I was able to

not scrub off speed and my lap times went down.

I run street tires and I had the wheels aligned for track use.

Paul

My definition of 'better' on the street would be to reduce the plowing that takes place during hard cornering with a stock suspension.

I find that my car is sharp and direct on the street, and throttle cures any hint of understeer I experience.  On the track, it's noticeable after the tires have been heat cycled a few times and are run hot, but not particularly before.  I run stock camber too.

Mark

Do you have an S?

Mine is rock stock, C2 but with 19" rims.  I've never been on a track...  Anyway, I should be getting my bar soon.

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What I mean by better is lower lap times. I noticed from pictures that

medium speed turns would cause the inside front wheel to

raise. It was like going thru the turn with three wheels.

The stiffer sway bar kept the car from rolling in the turns. This

gave me more contact patch on the asphlat. I was able to

not scrub off speed and my lap times went down.

I run street tires and I had the wheels aligned for track use.

Paul

My definition of 'better' on the street would be to reduce the plowing that takes place during hard cornering with a stock suspension.

Plowing is a result of going into the corner to fast. The secret

to fast times is going into the turn slow and out of the turn fast. Try it on one of your

favorite turns and you will see the secret.

Paul

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  • Admin

Porsche designs understeer into these cars as a safety feature. Most average drivers can not get into trouble with too much understeer - whereas it takes a talented driver to drive an oversteering car fast (i.e. the 60's, 70's and early 80's Porsche all had lots of oversteer).

In an understeering car if you lift the throttle (when you are in trouble) the car straigntens out and the plowing minimizes - whereas if you lift the throttle in an oversteer condition then you are likely going to end up spinning into the weeds or tire barrier (or worse).

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OK, I received my GT-3 Rear Sway Bar, p/n: 997 333 701 95 and 2 bushings, p/n: 997 333 792 95.

4723141146_98f5566532_s.jpg

4723140962_f1a919dc02_s.jpg

4723141608_ee197f492c_s.jpg

notice the 3 mounting positions.

4722490007_101856bbfe_s.jpg

4722518773_83f81b6c4a_s.jpg

Two required.

The stock bar is 19mm and the GT3 bar is 24mm diameter.

Do you think I can install this without removing the droplink? Anyway, I'll find out tomorrow night.

Why are my pictures so small?

Ken

Edited by racerken
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Looks like you linked to thumbnails.

When I try to add this photo, the system replies, 'You are not allowed to use that image extension on this board.'

'http://www.flickr.com/photos/51342168@N06/4723140962/in/set-72157624204206031/'

I just switched to flicker...

Edited by racerken
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Here are my details:

Porsche GT3 sway bar:  $234.39 (sunset porsche)

bushings:  $13.59 each

Install time was 1 hour:  16 mm socket , 16mm wrench, Torx 15.

Complexity: 1 - Easy as heck.

I'm using the middle setting because it was the only setting I could geometrically fit because in the unladen configuration where the wheels have not load, the drop links will not fit in the either end setting(holes) and bolt into place.  You can only do this when the car is on a ramp.  Then again, perhaps you can do it but I just can't figure it out.  Regardless, middle setting suits me fine on the street.

The ride is unbelievable or I'm so completely phyched that it's all in my head.  I can't explain it but the car feels like it's on rails.  Now because the front and rears are not matching, the car feels strange especially when going over bumps on one side where you have the soft front and the hard rear.

Anyway, I ordered the front GT3 bars ($225) today so in about 1 month, I'll verify the level of difficulty.  (drain coolant lines or not)

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Here are my details:

Porsche GT3 sway bar: $234.39 (sunset porsche)

bushings: $13.59 each

Install time was 1 hour: 16 mm socket , 16mm wrench, Torx 15.

Complexity: 1 - Easy as heck.

I'm using the middle setting because it was the only setting I could geometrically fit because in the unladen configuration where the wheels have not load, the drop links will not fit in the either end setting(holes) and bolt into place. You can only do this when the car is on a ramp. Then again, perhaps you can do it but I just can't figure it out. Regardless, middle setting suits me fine on the street.

The ride is unbelievable or I'm so completely phyched that it's all in my head. I can't explain it but the car feels like it's on rails. Now because the front and rears are not matching, the car feels strange especially when going over bumps on one side where you have the soft front and the hard rear.

Anyway, I ordered the front GT3 bars ($225) today so in about 1 month, I'll verify the level of difficulty. (drain coolant lines or not)

I am installing the GMG WC anti roll bars tomorrow. The GMG bars are developed from their racing program and its what the guys with GT3's and GT2's put on their cars when they get rid of their stock bars.

Anyway going to follow this DIY, hope it works out in time for my auto-x sunday. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=574012&referrerid=10748

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When you drop it all, can you take one quick picture?

BTW, which tie rod/ball joint removal tool will you use?

Thank you very much for the DIY link. You just saved me 2 days.

Ken

Edited by racerken
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I got one like this...

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010

worked perfect, very loud bang when the bolt lets go. Also, make sure the top jaw is fully engaged over the bolt.

I may try and do the job without removing the ball joints though. Seems like you should be able to get enough clearance

with the wheel carriers sliding on the strut but i guess I will find out.

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