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OK. so mine is obviously the ghetto version, but I made them very tight, not quite as tight as possible but close. I couldn’t figure out how the end of the lowering cable fit in the attachment point on the window, so I had to just basically tie the cable around the whole block of plastic there (this is the bike cable, so no end stopper anyways). But I bolted the motor on and just tested it, and it actually works! It goes up and stays snug anyway, and the motor turns off and doesn’t keep running. I only lowered it a few inches, but it went back up fine. So now I’m leaving it closed and getting the same kit you have for when I get back. Thanks for your help and good luck.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Just to add an end note to my saga; drove 7250 km through winter conditions and the windows stayed up snug and functioned when needed! Good thing it went out just before I left. I will do a proper cable replacement now. And for people that like drama, after towing a 5,000 lb. trailer admirably back across the country (3500 km), after unloading it and on the way to U-Haul to drop it off, the cardan shaft support bearing gave out. Had that happened in the middle of the Prairies I would have been so totally boned. Since my bearing wasn’t exactly perfect I cleaned it, repacked it and did the Jimi fix with 5/8” fuel line and zip ties for now. Seems more solid than the OEM system, and no problems so far.

 

DSC04193s.jpg.0eb9ab171c327614ac5a5b846f6b86f5.jpg

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6 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Just to add an end note to my saga; drove 7250 km through winter conditions and the windows stayed up snug and functioned when needed! Good thing it went out just before I left. I will do a proper cable replacement now. And for people that like drama, after towing a 5,000 lb. trailer admirably back across the country (3500 km), after unloading it and on the way to U-Haul to drop it off, the cardan shaft support bearing gave out. Had that happened in the middle of the Prairies I would have been so totally boned. Since my bearing wasn’t exactly perfect I cleaned it, repacked it and did the Jimi fix with 5/8” fuel line and zip ties for now. Seems more solid than the OEM system, and no problems so far.

 

DSC04193s.jpg.0eb9ab171c327614ac5a5b846f6b86f5.jpg

That's a legendary road side Fix Mike. 

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  • 4 months later...

Thanks – just to note however I only implemented it myself; it was originally someone else’s idea (Jimi, I assume). But as an epilogue to that whole saga, I checked the drive shaft support the other day and it is like the day I installed it 10,000 kms ago. No driveline vibrations or issues so far. But as this thread started with my leaving on a +7000 km drive, ironically I have to make the same drive again, under different circumstances this time, and I am probably going to leave it as is, so it will be put to the test once again. And as an epilogue for the window cable problem, I did subsequently order a kit similar to the one you showed Pkcayenne (except from Okzam), and it installed with no problems and works well. So we’ll see what adventures are in store for the CTT this time, as I have a coolant leak (passenger side smell, only when running, no drips to be found but lost a litre in 3 weeks). Strapped my GoPro to a stick and monitoring on my phone I looked at the T’s and they seem OK (and the coolant pipes have been done), although there is some dampness maybe on the block under them. That might lead to some interesting posts!

 

GOPR2514s.jpg.dbfc83c70278749445a69de41795b8cc.jpg

 

Other than that I probably won’t get the torque converter seal leak fixed before I go in 4 weeks; I still have the bell housing catheterized, with a hose running from the hole where it drips through to a container. Still 4 mls per day, so I we’ll see if it makes it! Found a place to do the work but after Lewis’s nightmare I am reticent about having it done close to the leaving date.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

Thanks – just to note however I only implemented it myself; it was originally someone else’s idea (Jimi, I assume). But as an epilogue to that whole saga, I checked the drive shaft support the other day and it is like the day I installed it 10,000 kms ago. No driveline vibrations or issues so far. But as this thread started with my leaving on a +7000 km drive, ironically I have to make the same drive again, under different circumstances this time, and I am probably going to leave it as is, so it will be put to the test once again. And as an epilogue for the window cable problem, I did subsequently order a kit similar to the one you showed Pkcayenne (except from Okzam), and it installed with no problems and works well. So we’ll see what adventures are in store for the CTT this time, as I have a coolant leak (passenger side smell, only when running, no drips to be found but lost a litre in 3 weeks). Strapped my GoPro to a stick and monitoring on my phone I looked at the T’s and they seem OK (and the coolant pipes have been done), although there is some dampness maybe on the block under them. That might lead to some interesting posts!

 

GOPR2514s.jpg.dbfc83c70278749445a69de41795b8cc.jpg

 

Other than that I probably won’t get the torque converter seal leak fixed before I go in 4 weeks; I still have the bell housing catheterized, with a hose running from the hole where it drips through to a container. Still 4 mls per day, so I we’ll see if it makes it! Found a place to do the work but after Lewis’s nightmare I am reticent about having it done close to the leaving date.

 

 

Mike,

If your going to have the engine dropped for the seal make sure you got some metal coolant T's made up and replace those rubbish plastic ones. 

Also do the engine crankshaft seal like I did, its right there and god would you be pissed if later on the engine started leaking out the bell housing. 

Safe trip. 

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Thanks Lewis; I probably won’t do it until I get back, but would definitely do the rear main seal as well. Not sure if it is easier to do the T’s with the transmission out (I think they can do the seals with just the tranny removed), might have to go in over the top anyway, but I am going to order the metal T’s and get it done. I was hoping taking just the transmission out would make access to those waste gates easier, but looking at it from under there, I don’t think it will.

 

But now the wind is out of my sails on all of this - so as I have often posted, my CTT just doesn’t seem to have the kick it should (or had when I first got it), and there were all those posts helping me look for boost leaks etc. Anyway I got in touch with a German ECU programing company, and sent them a whole stack of information including my recordings of the engine performance and related stats. I heard nothing for a week and figured they thought I was just OCD and needed a life outside of engines. But I finally got a letter back from their lead engineer who had in fact been looking it all over. In fine German form (not meant in disrespect at all Thomas!) he informed me that there was something mechanically wrong with my CTT to produce such poor performance, and it should be fixed before they do anything with the software. Seems like my CTT is an embarrassment to the breed!

 

So tonight I am going to use my wireless GoPro on a stick, and resume the search for what might be wrong. It seems to be running fine so it is going to be tough to figure out, but there must be something I am missing.

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/4/2010 at 1:57 AM, RFM said:

Sounds as a snapped window regulator cable, a replacement will be required.

I have a snapped cable also and the kit was $30 on ebay I am just wondering what size the 6 rivets holding the inner door panel are the (4 large and 2 small.) on the passenger rear door

Edited by Cj12
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Hi more like 8 I drilled them out and replaced with screws did all the work twice with the 30$ kit and neither time has it worked the cable gets twisted up around the spindle let me know what success I have because both windows driver and passenger front are shot 

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