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Hi Guys

I was on a long distance journey today with my 1999 996 C4 Cab when I noticed the engine overheating warning flashing. I pulled off the road immediately and noticed a lot of smoke coming from the engine bay. After opening the engine compartment I noticed coolant everywhere. My car has done 70 000km, has a full service history from the agents and has had a major service 500km's ago. After getting the car home I noticed that there seems to be a loose connection with coolant coming from the bottom end. Please see pictures attached.

post-36319-085748100 1278610480_thumb.jp

post-36319-037860000 1278610503_thumb.jp

Why would this fitting come loose? Is it as simple as refitting the pipe and adding coolant again? I would hate to have to have the car taken to the dealer on the back of a tow truck (400 km journey) if that is all they will do... Any advice please?

Thanks very much

Etienne

PS: Oh yes, what was attached with the cable tie to the bolt?!?

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Looks like the cooling line for the AOS - and that plastic joining piece looks broken.

post-1-091426300 1278615219_thumb.png

999.137.052.40 Intermediate piece -- US MSRP $2.10

plus 2 crew clamps

Hi Loren

Okay, after closer inspection I think you are right, it does seem broken.

post-36319-013901200 1278618165_thumb.jp

Sorry for these stupid questions, but what is the " AOS"? Why does that joining piece have such a strange shape? Does that "lip" attach or hook somewhere?

So, is it as simple as replacing this broken piece and filling up the coolant system again?

Thanks very much for your time!!

Take care

Etienne

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AOS = Air Oil Separator.

Yes remove the broken pieces (make sure you get them all out).

Insert the new plastic piece with new screw type hose clamps.

Refill the system using Porsche coolant (or equal). For best results you will need a vacuum filling tool (like the UView 55000).

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AOS = Air Oil Separator.

Yes remove the broken pieces (make sure you get them all out).

Insert the new plastic piece with new screw type hose clamps.

Refill the system using Porsche coolant (or equal). For best results you will need a vacuum filling tool (like the UView 55000).

Thanks Loren!!

Anybody know where I could order this part from? Some dealers does not want to send to South Africa...

Take care

Etienne

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Hi Loren

After looking at the diagram closely it seems as if the item in question might be #18, rather than #16. What do you think?

See this side-on picture:

post-36319-048316500 1278666906_thumb.jp

Would #17, the bolt, then be the bolt in the background with the cable tie hanging from it? If so, should #18 (A 996 106 226 51 - Socket) be bolted down with the bolt in question?

Why are there 2 #18's? A 996 106 226 51 as well as 996 106 226 52?

Thanks very much

Etienne

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The last 2 numbers in Porsche part numbering system is revision number, so the -52 is a updated -51

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The last 2 numbers in Porsche part numbering system is revision number, so the -52 is a updated -51

Thanks Rick!

Etienne

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Etienne, try the folks at Pelican parts. They're probably a sponsoring member here and their tech help is great. I went through similar issues w/my 2000 996 at about 110K miles. Thought I had a leaking return hose, bought the price upgrade kit only to find out it was a casting crack on the water pump intake. Now that made me glad my other Pcars are all aircooled.

Colen Mark Taylor

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Hi Loren

After looking at the diagram closely it seems as if the item in question might be #18, rather than #16. What do you think?

See this side-on picture:

post-36319-048316500 1278666906_thumb.jp

Would #17, the bolt, then be the bolt in the background with the cable tie hanging from it? If so, should #18 (A 996 106 226 51 - Socket) be bolted down with the bolt in question?

Why are there 2 #18's? A 996 106 226 51 as well as 996 106 226 52?

Thanks very much

Etienne

I agree. The bolt with the tie wrap around it in your second photo is definitely backed out. It's possible that the tie wrap was used to hold the plastic fitting (#18) to the bolt instead of the fitting being properly secured. This poor repair eventually led to the failure of the fitting. Good Luck!

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Hi Loren

After looking at the diagram closely it seems as if the item in question might be #18, rather than #16. What do you think?

See this side-on picture:

post-36319-048316500 1278666906_thumb.jp

Would #17, the bolt, then be the bolt in the background with the cable tie hanging from it? If so, should #18 (A 996 106 226 51 - Socket) be bolted down with the bolt in question?

Why are there 2 #18's? A 996 106 226 51 as well as 996 106 226 52?

Thanks very much

Etienne

Yes, Item 18 would be correct.

996.106.226.52 Joining socket -- US MSRP $4.57

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Had this same part fail on me two sundays ago...

It is the second part mentioned... mine was -51, but replaced with -52.

Bolts right to the block, easy as pie.

Worst part of swapping it out is the broken bit left inside of the hose...

I used some pliers to squeeze the hose closed on the broken bit, so as to crumble it into tiny pieces while inside the hose... then just hold hose with opening down, and tap it a bunch so the bits fall out.

I wish I would've figured that out up front... hopefully this info helps you save some time and sanity.

good luck.

Hi Loren

After looking at the diagram closely it seems as if the item in question might be #18, rather than #16. What do you think?

See this side-on picture:

post-36319-048316500 1278666906_thumb.jp

Would #17, the bolt, then be the bolt in the background with the cable tie hanging from it? If so, should #18 (A 996 106 226 51 - Socket) be bolted down with the bolt in question?

Why are there 2 #18's? A 996 106 226 51 as well as 996 106 226 52?

Thanks very much

Etienne

Yes, Item 18 would be correct.

996.106.226.52 Joining socket -- US MSRP $4.57

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Had this same part fail on me two sundays ago...

It is the second part mentioned... mine was -51, but replaced with -52.

Bolts right to the block, easy as pie.

Worst part of swapping it out is the broken bit left inside of the hose...

I used some pliers to squeeze the hose closed on the broken bit, so as to crumble it into tiny pieces while inside the hose... then just hold hose with opening down, and tap it a bunch so the bits fall out.

I wish I would've figured that out up front... hopefully this info helps you save some time and sanity.

good luck.

Hi

Thanks for the info. I was wondering how I was going to get it out!

Take care

Etienne

PS: I ordered the part from AutoAtlanta. Pelican has no option on the net for ordering from abroad and the local agent can only deliver the part in 3 weeks time.

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Hi Guys

The replacement part showed up at last. I replaced it today. Fortunately it was just a 15 minute job. As a matter of interest, I found a screw that just about fitted into the stuck piece of the plastic pipe (part that was stuck inside the hose) and succeeded in pulling out the piece of fitting from the hose.

Next question, and quite an important one I think. My car has the green coolant, the replacement coolant that was sent i the pink stuff. Do I need to drain the existing green coolant completely before filling with the diluted pink stuff? It would be a whole lit easier just topping it up! There was some story about the compatibility of the 2 kinds of coolant though....

Thanks very much for any advice!!

Take care

Etienne

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The original Porsche coolant (green and pink) may be mixed without problems.

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Hi Loren

After looking at the diagram closely it seems as if the item in question might be #18, rather than #16. What do you think?

See this side-on picture:

post-36319-048316500 1278666906_thumb.jp

Would #17, the bolt, then be the bolt in the background with the cable tie hanging from it? If so, should #18 (A 996 106 226 51 - Socket) be bolted down with the bolt in question?

Why are there 2 #18's? A 996 106 226 51 as well as 996 106 226 52?

Thanks very much

Etienne

Yes, Item 18 would be correct.

996.106.226.52 Joining socket -- US MSRP $4.57

Loren, my connector joint piece broke, i cannot remove that gold hose clap at the bottom of joint piece.

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I had the same thing happen to that connector piece. After inspecting the new piece, I decided that this little plastic connector was a weak link that was just going to blow again. With engine heat/vibration and coolant heat constantly hitting that piece of plastic connector pipe, I went for a longer term solution. What I did was find a perfect fit brass hose connector at the auto parts store, used SS worm clamps, snipped off the two hose bibs on the plastic piece so I could use it as a bracket, ran a SS bolt with locking nut through the plastic piece and then just simply used a nylon tie to hold the pipe/brass connector to the bracket/bolt. Did all this for <$5 and a one beer job. Works perfect and I never have to worry about that fitting again.

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I noticed that connector piece on my car was broken so that it no longer attached and had been zip tied in place many years ago. I bought a new connector but had never replaced it since I wasn't comfortable with the whole coolant air bubble thing. Instead, I was able to use a zip tie strategically placed back to the bolt that was supposed to hold it and this had become a regular check item to make sure it was always being held in the right place and not rubbing into the accessories belt which is about 1/2" away from it.

Well, a couple of weeks ago a noise around the accessory belt started happening and it got un-settlingly loud. I'd suspected (actually it was more of a hope) that it might be the idler and/or tensioner pulleys. I wasn't quite so lucky and I found out it was the water pump bearing getting ready to let go. I got the new water pump and decided to get an UView AirLift 55000 to help me with my coolant anxiety (an absolutely wonderful tool). I also found my replacement connector piece and decided to finally install it.

Well, I couldn't believe it but when I cut the zip tie holding it and simply pulled it out a little bit to get clearance to cut off the crimp on hose clamp the bottom part just disintegrated in my hands, breaking off exactly like the pictures in this thread. I feel like I've dodged 2 bullets, the first one is that I caught my failing water pump bearing before it decided to let go, and now catching the connector (that I should have replaced long ago) before it decided to let go!

Maybe I'll but a lottery ticket this weekend to see if I can continue my streak of good luck!

Peter

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I broke this plastic hose connector today when I was replacing my alternator. I wanted to move the hoses out of the way and when I used my hose clamp pliers and tried to pull the upper hose off the connector it just broke off. 12 years and many, many heat cycles later the plastic was shot. One local dealer has one in stock, but their parts dept. was not open on Saturday.

However I am thinking one of the previous posters was right in replacing the plastic with brass. There are many plastic connectors in these cars and sooner or later they all seem to fail.

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I used a brass hose repair kit coupler from home depot for a couple bucks. Works great.

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... As a matter of interest, I found a screw that just about fitted into the stuck piece of the plastic pipe (part that was stuck inside the hose) and succeeded in pulling out the piece of fitting from the hose...

Reading this thread last Friday - and the rather small but oh so important info from etienne - may have saved my whole week end, not to mention my engine...

Why the part broke off just from me touching it while lightly washing the engine is a different question.

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I'd definitely change this part if I suspect that it is over 5 years old. Replacement is very easy and the cost is only few bucks.

Make sure you get all the plastic bits out by lubricating the connector before you remove it. You can internally lubricate the contact point between the hose and the connector by using a screwdriver and gently stretching the hose, then apply silicon there 360 degrees. Finally just use pliers to pull pieces out. While working, tilt hose always down and finally vacuum the hose if you are really paranoid about the plastic bits :-)

This part was the only thing that broke to my hands when I did my engine drop / install, quite fragile but still crucial part. My car is C4S, 10 years old, not sure if my part was original or not.

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... As a matter of interest, I found a screw that just about fitted into the stuck piece of the plastic pipe (part that was stuck inside the hose) and succeeded in pulling out the piece of fitting from the hose...

Reading this thread last Friday - and the rather small but oh so important info from etienne - may have saved my whole week end, not to mention my engine...

Why the part broke off just from me touching it while lightly washing the engine is a different question.

I feel you, I broke my own connector by gently touching it with my hand while doing engine drop.

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I'd definitely change this part if I suspect that it is over 5 years old. Replacement is very easy and the cost is only few bucks.

Why the part broke off just from me touching it while lightly washing the engine is a different question.

I feel you, I broke my own connector by gently touching it with my hand while doing engine drop.

Scarry. Any other pieces in this category one should know about..?

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