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Water under driver's seat


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Hi friends. Bad 996 day today...I came home from a business trip and noticed a significant amount of condensation on the inside of my windows and the red alarm indicator light on the dash was not flashing, but solid. The key remote wouldn't work and the car would not start. I tried to pop the hood using the fuse box terminal, no luck. Then I saw it...a puddle on the rear floor behind the driver's seat. Pulled out the wet-vac and sucked about 3-4 gallons of water out (we had a lot of rain this week). The car shows no signs of power at all. I was left helpless so I had the car taken to the dealer.

I've done some searching and know when I get the car back that my first order of business will be to ensure that all of my drain lines are clean and functional (thanks for the diagrams Loren). I am assuming that I have destroyed the ECU/DME/Immobilizer box under the seat too. Is there anything else I should be looking out for? Any help or guidance would be appreciated. Not excited to get the bill for this one...

Thanks as always,

-tanny02

Edited by tanny02996
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Sorry, to hear about your problem. This is why we encourage folks to check their drains BEFORE this happens.

Central Locking/Immobilizer is under the drivers seat (LHD cars).

Even if you dry it out I doubt it would be salvageable. Once water touches powered circuits it usually more expensive to repair and likely to corrode and cause more problems in the future.

Probably not as bad as you think - a new alarm box is about US MSRP $391.51 plus programming. Likely 1 hour to reprogram all of your keys and DME, etc.

Make sure you get all the keys with their unique 40 digit codes to the shop - it highly unlikely they can copy the info out of your old alarm box.

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Another owner here in the Chicago area just had this happen to him and the dealer charged $750 for the unit and the programming. I think he may have needed new keys or fobs as the old coding for the keys, etc. is in the old unit. And who keeps that sort of info on file.

I got lucky a couple of weeks ago when my cab smelled musty. Felt the carpet behind the drivers seat and it was damp. Fortunately no water got under the seats. Cleaned the rear drains, which were completely blocked. And the front drains which has some leaves in them. Going to be part of the annual work from now on.

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Thanks guys. Loren, your counsel and insights are valuable as always and Dharn...appreciate the benchmarking data...I am starting to feel less uneasy about this whole thing. The dealer wasn't able to get to it today, but the car is in covered parking with the window cracked open. I do have one of my key codes, but not both, so guess i'll be buying a new transponder as well. Hopeful the car wont smell musty when i get her back.

Edited by tanny02996
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Loren, is there a DIY for clearing the drains, I have done a search but cant find anything. Would be good info. for all of us if there are some instructions or photos.

Sorry, to hear about your problem. This is why we encourage folks to check their drains BEFORE this happens.

Central Locking/Immobilizer is under the drivers seat (LHD cars).

Even if you dry it out I doubt it would be salvageable. Once water touches powered circuits it usually more expensive to repair and likely to corrode and cause more problems in the future.

Probably not as bad as you think - a new alarm box is about US MSRP $391.51 plus programming. Likely 1 hour to reprogram all of your keys and DME, etc.

Make sure you get all the keys with their unique 40 digit codes to the shop - it highly unlikely they can copy the info out of your old alarm box.

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  • Admin

Loren, is there a DIY for clearing the drains, I have done a search but cant find anything. Would be good info. for all of us if there are some instructions or photos.

Sorry, to hear about your problem. This is why we encourage folks to check their drains BEFORE this happens.

Central Locking/Immobilizer is under the drivers seat (LHD cars).

Even if you dry it out I doubt it would be salvageable. Once water touches powered circuits it usually more expensive to repair and likely to corrode and cause more problems in the future.

Probably not as bad as you think - a new alarm box is about US MSRP $391.51 plus programming. Likely 1 hour to reprogram all of your keys and DME, etc.

Make sure you get all the keys with their unique 40 digit codes to the shop - it highly unlikely they can copy the info out of your old alarm box.

You need to search for "drains" and author "Loren" - I've posted this and referenced it many times.

http://www.renntech....dpost__p__51230

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