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Top not operating after new top install


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I just finished replacing the top on my 2000 Boxster and when I went to close it for the first time it would not fully close. I tried twice but did not push it too hard not wanting to put strain on the mechanisms and motor. It was nightime and I figured I would put it in the sun today and re-try. I think the last thing I did was back it off a little. The top is now open about six inches. Now when I push the button to either close or open, nothing happens - no clicks, clunks, nothing. I checked both fuses in Row B and D and they are fine.

The installation went smoothly although I did drop one of the self tapping screws that holds the u-shaped channel - the rearmost one. I could not find it and am not sure exacly where it fell, maybe it went down the shoulder harness hole or maybe down the drain. Could it be jammed somewhere and messing things up?

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jim

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I just finished replacing the top on my 2000 Boxster and when I went to close it for the first time it would not fully close. I tried twice but did not push it too hard not wanting to put strain on the mechanisms and motor. It was nightime and I figured I would put it in the sun today and re-try. I think the last thing I did was back it off a little. The top is now open about six inches. Now when I push the button to either close or open, nothing happens - no clicks, clunks, nothing. I checked both fuses in Row B and D and they are fine.

The installation went smoothly although I did drop one of the self tapping screws that holds the u-shaped channel - the rearmost one. I could not find it and am not sure exacly where it fell, maybe it went down the shoulder harness hole or maybe down the drain. Could it be jammed somewhere and messing things up?

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jim

If one screw went down one of the drains, you should get that drain clear so that you don't end up with a fried immobilizer later on but that screw in the drain would have no effect on the electric portion of the mechanism.

Check to make sure that the handbrake is pulled up AND that the idiot light on the dashboard is actually lit up.

Are your two windows in the automatically retracted position, which is about 4 inches from all the way up?

Poke your finger or the eraser on the back of a pencil in the convertible top latch receptacle and then release the pressure while you are pressing the switch in the down position to see if it energizes the electric motor.

After those two steps, if you don't get any results, pull the convertible top double relay off and rap it on a hard surface a couple of times to see if it has to be revived....Also pull it on and off a couple of times to effectively scrape away some of the surface corrosion that may have built up on the spades of the relay or on the receptacles on the relay tray. That double relay is located directly above the fuse panel where you have already checked those two fuses.

There is also a remote possibility that your electric motor hit a dead spot. In that case, try to smack the electric motor with a very small hammer to see if that will "unstick" it.

Keep us posted with any other symptoms or progress.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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Thanks Maurice, I will follow up on all your suggestions. It will take me a few days, right now I need to change an O2 sensor on an Audi A4 that I'm trying to sell and our 98 Accord needs front brake pads and rotors. I have too many cars to take care of...

As an update on the Boxster I was able to close the top by pulling the cables out of the motor and turning them with a reversible drill motor. It closed with no problem and the good news is it is nice and tight with no wrinkles! So at least for now I can drive the car while I sort out this motor problem.

Jim

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Thanks Maurice, I will follow up on all your suggestions. It will take me a few days, right now I need to change an O2 sensor on an Audi A4 that I'm trying to sell and our 98 Accord needs front brake pads and rotors. I have too many cars to take care of...

As an update on the Boxster I was able to close the top by pulling the cables out of the motor and turning them with a reversible drill motor. It closed with no problem and the good news is it is nice and tight with no wrinkles! So at least for now I can drive the car while I sort out this motor problem.

Jim

Jim:

Too many cars to take care of... LOL!!! I know the feeling!jump.gif

Now that you have the top closed, it will benefit from a few days in the sun. The stretching of the canvas will gradually make it a little easier to close the top.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

<<There is also a remote possibility that your electric motor hit a dead spot. In that case, try to smack the electric motor with a very small hammer to see if that will "unstick" it.

Keep us posted with any other symptoms or progress.>>

Ok, a couple of taps with a plastic hammer while pushing the button on the dash and off she went, go figure.

So if any one is interested I purchased my top from a supplier in southern Cal, this is the third top I have bought from him (different cars, of course) and he has been great for price and service. The Boxster top was $439 plus tax and free shipping - German canvas with a green tinted vinyl window. I had intended to buy either and Easyon or Robbins, but he told me that he has his own line in addition to those that he feels is equal to the other two and less expensive. I asked him to give me a reference and he gave me the name of an installer near Sacramento. I called the guy and he said that he has had no problems with these tops and feels that they are of equal quality to the name brands. As I mentioned above the top went on with no issues, the only problem was minor - the relief in the fiberboard at the front needed to be opened up a little to clear the bosses on the front bow where the screws go. My dremel tool made quick work of that. The top looks great, tight and no wrinkles.

Also, I ended up not using the 3M tape recommended by Chris in NH (and on Mike Focke's page) except for the front bow because I did not like its thickness, the original tape had no thickness to speak of. For the rear seal and the aluminum plates I used Weldwood Contact Cement original formula. Added a little time but worked great.

Being new to this forum I don't know what the norm is for vendor shout outs so if anyone wants the supplier name feel free to email me or I can post if it is ok. I have no connection or vested interest in his business, just passing the word on.

And lastly, this top install was not easy. It was definately the toughest one of the three I have now installed.

Cheers,

Jim

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