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GT3 lip spoiler replacement


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I recommend not using the part Loren recommended, which is a screw-type connector and not the part actually used by the factory on new cars. I don't understand why the part's catalog specifies this part. The problem with it is that the head strips too easily when you try to install it.

There are two push-type connectors available, each with a slightly different size:

999.507.497.40 8x14mm

999.507.557.40 7.8x12.3mm

The GT3 Cup car parts catalog says to use the second one. I have tried both, and they both work fine.

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If, by "clips", you mean the rivet type fasteners, here is what I've done. I pull the rivet head straight out of the fastener by pulling on two opposite sides simultaneously. If you just lever on one edge the thing bends over and doesn't come out. I now use an old Snap-On spark plug boot puller that closes hooks over two sides of the rivet and has hooked handles for pulling. I've also tried using diagonal cutters CAREFULLY ramping/loosening the rivet out from two sides before they close on the rivet shaft and cut it off! Always have a handful of spare rivets around anyway. I have some on the bench and some in the car.

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Hi All,

just picked up my Mk1 last week and the lower spolier was missing, so will be replacing it - anyone know if I can use the new push-type connectors on a Mk1? My theory would be that these may come off easier than the fixed ones - and I'd rather the whole thing came off cleanly than ripped off part of the front bumper along with it.

Thanks..

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  • 2 months later...

TRG has replacement spoiler for under $200. The puch pin type is the one to use.

Check for any daylight between the spoiler and the bumper before tracking. I had two peal off @ 115+mph and 135mph.

One was run over by the guy behind me and cut it on half. The other was recovered and put back one.

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