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LN Engineering has been selling their spin on oil filter adapter for some time. While I tend to agree that it may be more convenient and cost effective (in the long run) than the factory cartridge, the filters they recommend don't have a high-pressure by-pass valve.

Their argument is that with the spin-on, all the oil gets filtered. Yet, it seems to me that all the oil has been getting filtered all along and if conditions have created a need for the by-pass to let more oil through for a few seconds, that's better than over-pressure or starvation due to oil not being able to get throught the filter in sufficient quantities.

If you are one to inspect your filter, you'd now need a filter cutter (not wildly expensive) to inspect the folds of the filter material. They also argue that the metal cannister is less prone to damage from road debris.

Any ideas yay or nay on switching to a spin-on?

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You need to do a search.............this has be covered numerous times. Yes, the spin on is a good idea, and the lack of a by-pass valve is not an issue as by the time the OEM style cartridge filter plugs up enough for it to open, the engine is toast any way.............

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You need to do a search.............this has be covered numerous times. Yes, the spin on is a good idea, and the lack of a by-pass valve is not an issue as by the time the OEM style cartridge filter plugs up enough for it to open, the engine is toast any way.............

Actually, if you would do a search, the particular issue of the loss of a by-pass has never really been addressed. Almost all the information has come from LNE, with just a few vague buy-ins from reponders with no clear expertise.

Part of the problem is, how would you be able to tell how often and under what conditions the by-pass engages or is necessary to maintain flow?

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Let's put it this way, both my cars have the spin on adaptor, as do many of my customers; some of these cars have been running it for a couple of years. As I offer all my customers UoA's as part of their service package, we have collected a lot of oil data running the adaptors. We also cut open all oil filters, spin on and OEM style, to check for debris. To date, I have seen no problems with either the visual inspection or the UoA's; and some of these cars really get run hard. As the cars with the adaptors have no shown any issues, it would appear that the OEM by-pass really doesn't do much of anything.................

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Thanks. I have no concern about a warm engine, operating with recommended oil within normal rpm ranges. My guess is that the by-pass is there for cold weather conditions. For all we know, it was installed so that someone running thick oil (heavy weight) in a cold engine at higher rev's wouldn't cause the plastic filter housing to fail.

Edited by RF5BPilot
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Perfectly true that in case of cold starts with thick oil, the valve will react to ensure proper oil flow, the used filter paper surface is not porous enough to let pass the thick oil in a certain period (flow problem). Filters with more porous paper will have that problem less or not. The main oil pressure valve, in the oil pump, is most of the time responsible for a blown oil filter canister (seized or blocked oil pressure valve piston, up to 7Kg/cm² and more.)

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It is true that a multi-weight oil will flow in colder temps like the lower of the two weights. But at cooler temps, that is still a lot thicker than the higher weight when the engine is warm. I run 20w-50 in my airplane. In 40 degree temps, the pressure will almost peg on high--just at initial idle. I let it run a bit to thin the oil even before I raise the rpm's enough to taxi. With the engine fully warmed, at max rpm, I'll only see a pressure of about 3/4 of the max. And this engine only uses a strainer--no pleated filter like the Porsche.

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5W-40 is in COLD conditions thicker than 0W-40 but thinner than 10W-40

5W-40 is in HOT conditions thicker than 5W-30 but thinner than 5W-50

It is perfectly normal that the oil becoming thicker in COLD than in HOT conditions whatever the index is.

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