Torque wrench recommendations

[Greg]

I would like to get a torque wrench. Which one should I buy for typical DIY automotive projects? There is a Sears nearby, I also have a Griot's catalog.

Thanks

[LVDell]

Greg, I bought the one at Sears that has the needle on it. I tried the preset one and did not like it at all. I felt as though it was going past the preset. With the needle you can actually see the torque number you are at (increasing) as you tighten. Also, it happens to be the least expensive one!

[Loren]

My advice is to buy two. Okay, I'm not quite out of my mind - here is why. Buy a good quality one for changing wheels - where the wrench is likely going to be dropped and where a few ft/lbs won't make a difference. I have a Sears for changing wheels and Proto for engine work. Then if you plan on doing engine or suspension work buy the higher end wrench that has more precision (and don't drop it). If you do drop it then the higher end wrenches can usually be sent out for re-calibration. Just my 2 cents...

Also, I think it is a good idea to release the tension (set to 0 torque) on your wrench when it is not is use.

Edited December 14, 2004 by Loren

[bavarian]

I bought the Sears wrench (with the needle) but hate it. There is no accurate way of reading it. For the same money, they sell a decent one at Tirerack which works much better IMO.

[ar38070]

If cost is an issue then go to www.harborfreight.com. $20 for a click style. They also sell the S-K which is about as good as you can get for $90. I have an S-K and a Sears. When you have two you can check them against each other to see how the calibrations are. Then you can check against a buddies if you are really paranoid.

I have a beam style that I do not use anymore. The nice thing about the beam style is that it cannot go out of calibration.

[Greg]

Thank you all for the advice!!

[Tool Pants]

I had a beam style that I have not seen in many years - might have thrown it away. The rest of mine are the click style.

What you need depends on what you will be using it for. I suggest a 3/8" drive as they usually go to about 75-100 foot pounds, and a 1/2" drive that usually goes to 200-250 foot pounds.

The usual DIYer torque wrench is accurate to 3-4% which is fine. I do not like the standard Sears type because it has a plastic ring used to lock the setting. This is like the old Snap-On style but with Snap-On the ring is metal. With Sears the plastic ring can break and Sears will not take it back. Husky at Home Depot is good and I think better than Sears. I have a Husky that I've used for years. S-K is good. I do not like the China $20 torque wrenches but it is better than no wrench.

Some of mine are Utica which I like because they are all metal, or CDI which is owned by Snap-On. When you look at them make note that some are in inch pounds or foot pounds. A DIYer will want foot pounds.

[magcuda]

if you want the best torque wrench made look at the Stahlwille brand. these aren't cheap but they will out last you. made in germany and dkd certified through out the working range of the tool. I have gone through snap ons and sears but the stahlwille brand is the best I have ever used in 26 years of working on cars professionally :thumbup:

[PTEC]

if you want the best torque wrench made look at the Stahlwille brand. these aren't cheap but they will out last you. made in germany and dkd certified through out the working range of the tool. I have gone through snap ons and sears but the stahlwille brand is the best I have ever used in 26 years of working on cars professionally  :thumbup:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Stahlwille makes great tools. Hazet torque wreches are very nice too. I've got a few of the Snap-on electric ones, which are nice because you can do both Nm and Ft-lbs with out doing any conversions. Good thing about snap-on is they're probably a lot easier to get serviced than either Stahlwille or Hazet.

[Greg]

Thanks!