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D_Man

CODES P1124 & P1126 996 Running Rich.

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Hey, 996 Guy's

Need advice.

I had these codes awhile back on my 996 C2 Tip, I have reset the codes and after 30 min's of driving the exact codes came back.

P1124 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

So the car is running rich right, The only mods I have done to the car is an AireTech Cold air pipe that make a few more HP , So the car is getting plenty of Air compared to stock. No problems on the Kick in the seat area.

I took the MAF out and cleaned is with CRC electronics cleaner "Quick Drying formula" and reset the CEL. Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting this problem.

Any ideas?

Here is a picture of my MAF.

How do I know which version I have?

Thanks

D_Man

:eek:

post-2874-1103082432_thumb.jpg

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post-2874-1103082466.jpg

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Could it be just a case of bad fuel?

Does this happen intermitently or do you get CE light on all the time?

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What is the AireTech Cold air pipe? Do you have a pic of the installation? Without knowing the setup, It appears that the MAF is calculating a larger volume of air therefore telling the computer to boost the amount of fuel being injected. The O2 sensors are then supposed to adjust the amount of fuel injected based on what they read. Apparently, the adjustment is too much.

Now, if you had an OBD reader, you could look at what the MAF is reading and what the O2 sensors are reading. The secondary O2's will be showing a high reading if you are running rich.

I would reset the computer and let it relearn the setup. Also, make sure that there is no vacuum leak. If that does not work, install a 270 ohm resister in the voltage line on the cable of the MAF. This will lower the amount of air the MAF tells the computer it has, but WILL NOT reduce the amount of air entering the system. The injectors will open for a less amount of time and the O2's should be able to handle any adjustment.

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Thanks for the help, no I dont seem to be getting any other codes than the ones I have listed.

The cold air pipe is shown below, lt really wakes the car's driving spirit. In order to fully explore this problem i need to see what voltage readings are on the O2, & MAF sensors, so i can compare voltages to other cars. The resister idea might be necessary if no real problems are found. No CEL yet on the trip to or from work today. Im off to go look at the CARCHIP/EX data recorder for OBD.

I'll keep you posted on the light status, I would like to think cleaning the MAF would solve the problem, but I have my doubts about that, seems too easy.

thanks

D_MAN

post-2874-1103148112_thumb.jpg

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Good Luck - I had one of those and after several calls to the manufacturer we could never get it to stop throwing CELs. I am sure it was the problem because I could put the stock (BMC so almost stock) air intake back on, reset the CEL and it would not come on again.

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Try this: Cover half of the cone filter with tape, plastic or something else air tight and try running it that way. If the light doesn't come on, you have isolated the problem as having too much air flow (or too turbulant) past the "uncalibrated" MAF. Let me know and we can try to fix this.

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So do yo think that my MAF need's to be recalibrated at the Porsche dealer? I thought about trying this, put the old airfilter and Airbox back on the car and reset the CEL. See if it really is the increased airflow. Man, I really got to get one of those OBD scanners that I can read out critical Eng data, because all this theorizing is really shooting in the dark.

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Good Luck - I had one of those and after several calls to the manufacturer we could never get it to stop throwing CELs. I am sure it was the problem because I could put the stock (BMC so almost stock) air intake back on, reset the CEL and it would not come on again.

Loren

I talked to the Manufacturer he was very helpful, and said I could call back as many times as I like. It the same people that sell the Supercharger kits. www.evoms.com, I just really like the better sound it gives the car, because before just running stock the car had a muffeled sound. I this system perameters are very narrow on the newer cars. So it not so easy to do upgrades and keep everything running happy.

Dennis

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When I said "uncalibrated" I was referring the the airflow may be out of the normal range for the MAF. This is NOT a problem that cannot be corrected. Without you being able to read the MAF and O2 levels, we are making alot of assumptions.

The only thing that is different with your new induction system is the replacement of the stock air chamber with a cone filter. What has this changed. Two things...less restriction on air flow into the intake and you have shortened the length the air flows before it is read by the MAF. Do you have a screen on the intake between the filter and MAF? This will help reduce air turbulance as it flows past the MAF.

Like I said, without a scan tool, the first thing I would do is reset the computer and reduce the airflow of the filter by covering part of it so air cannot flow through. I would cover like a third of the filter CLOSEST to the MAF by rapping it in cellophane. If this eliminates the CEL, then I would test it by removing the cellophane and installing a screen over the tube between the filter and the MAF and test again.

If blocking some of the filters flow fixes it, then the permanent fix is easy. Let me know how the test comes out.

Don't forget to rule out a vacuum leak. How is your idle?

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I did one better I installed the Stock Airbox and reset the light, now No CEL. Im giong to drive it that way for a day or two before I decide to put the Air Pipe install back on. The Intake kit is great , it really gives the car better sound, and power, but at the expense of running around with the light CEL on.

But the question about the screen ,yesy there is a screen before the MAF filter on the Airetec airbox, I know it draws substantially more air than the stock unit.

Anyway Im going to keep working the issue, it would be a shame not to use such a nice piece of equipment.

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I did one better I installed the Stock Airbox and reset the light, now No CEL. Im giong to drive it that way for a day or two before I decide to put the Air Pipe install back on. The Intake kit is great , it really gives the car better sound, and power, but at the expense of running around with the light CEL on.

But the question about the screen ,yesy there is a screen before the MAF filter on the Airetec airbox, I know it draws substantially more air than the stock unit.

Anyway Im going to keep working the issue, it would be a shame not to use such a nice piece of equipment.

I spent 4 weeks on it... then I sent it back.

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OK All bets are off now, I now have the CEL on when I installed the stock airbox and filter, So in the event the same codes are present, I need to look other places to fix problem. Anyway Im going to get a ECU reader for the car period.

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I fixed my check engine light issue. the code were for running rich on both banks.

Porsche dealer in St Louis replaced my Oil seperator bellows for a total of $409, I did contemplate doing it my self but I couldnt see how a normal peron could get to this item with out the car being on a rack at just the right angle. You would think Porsche would install a small door under the back deck for enging access on the back side of the engine bay.

Dennis

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Looks like this is going to be on my list of projects now. I've had an oil leak from the top of the engine for a while now, and its gotten worse. Now I've been throwing p1126, 1124, and 0150 codes with increasing frequency. Looking at the freeze data, it appears that its occuring during idle only. Anyone got access tips for a 99 C2? I'm thinking about going in through the left rear wheel well, after removing the wheel. Thoughts?

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The AOS has a rubber diaphragm inside and a rubber boot on the outside bottom part, which attaches to the crank case.  To remove and replace this bottom accordion rubber boot, best to change the AOS at the same time. The boot is already attached to the bottom of it which drops over the securing bracket with a quick release bottom clip. .

 

If you want to attempt to change it alone, it's a real PITA as you will be working one handed on your back. No need to remove the wheel. Jack the back up, slide in head first on your back till your head is level with back wheel and you will see the boot high up under the car. I advice you to put a coating of oil inside both ends of the new boot before attempting to put it in place. I managed to get a quick release metal clip on the bottom BUT only a Zip tie to the top. Got my boot cheap from Pelican along with 2 quick release type clips but could only get the bottom one on.  That's why I used the zip tie on the top which I put loosely around the boot before putting the boot in place.  Then pull hard on the top zip tie.    Let me tell you, only a magician could get both quick release clips in place.  Move the electric plug  to the right for more room for your one hand.

 

 

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