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Hi,

It seems like my power door lock mechanism went out yesterday. When I went to open the driver's side door, there was no resistance when turning either way, it turned 1/4 way each way with no resistance - it felt like it wasn't grabbing anything, just slipping back and forth. I was able to open the car by opening the passenger side door and opening the driver's side door from the inside. When I did get inside, the lock light on the dash was on. The car is a '99 2.5 US 5 spd 986 with no remote key entry, just standard "power" locks.

I did a search on the forum and didn't find anything. I did find instructions on how to remove the door card, so I think I can get at "it" I just don't know what "it" is. I haven't used my Durametric yet to see if there are any codes, I'll have a chance to do that tomorrow afternoon.

Any ideas what might have happened and what part(s) I need? Thanks for the help.

-Jason

Edited by Jsonorous
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Your problem Is of course either electrical or mechanical. If electrical heres some advice.

My dad was a literal rocket scientist. His best budy was one too with an I.Q up in the stratospere. They taught me this little tric and it works about %40 of the time for me, so I evangelize, spreading the good news (grin)

Alot of electrical problems are due to poor connection, loose or corroded. Follow the wiring harness as far as you can in each direction (lock to black box and where ever else the circuit goes). Pull apart every connector and reconnect at least 5 times. Doing this will scrape of invisible corrosion that opens the circuit keeping it from working. Check it to see if it's working every once in awhile as you go along.

ALSO, if your immobilizer got wet (black box under drivers seat) all sorts of havoc can be wreaked. Reach down there and see if the carpets wet. If so, get the immobilizer out , opened up and dried out... You might save it. I think I'd do this firs

Others might have other ideas but this is one to check on mysterious electrical problem.

Regards, PK

P.S. any break in the circuit from the button in the car, dor handle could wreak havoc. Ignition switch can also be a fair bet.

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The mechanical connection between the lock cylinder and lock mechanism will be demolished, the connector looks like a mini version of an oar. You can reach the problem area by removing the inner door trim.

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I used my Durametric and got a code 60.

60 Central Locking Limit Position

Lock not reached

Status: not present

Frequency counter 3

It looks like I need part number 996 537 963 02, right around $300. It says that it is: support with lock cylinder (that is the mini oar piece right?). Does that mean I have to re-key my car?

Any help or insight is appreciated!

Thanks,

Jason

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Each dealer can order a lock cylinder according to the VIN # so you can keep the original key. If i was you i would first see what the problem is right, before any parts ordered you will need a confirmation, a mistake on my part is still possible, i have no crystal ball to consult neither.

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I say forget the error codes in this instance. If you are sure there is no resistance when you turn the key, then it really sounds like the plastic tube that connects the tumbler and the lock is broken. If your door was half locked or whatever when this happened, it might throw an error code. The key physically turns the lock mechanism - so even if the lock is not working right, some resistance should be felt.

This is a very easy DIY fix.

Take off the door panel, and have a feel for a connection between the key tumbler and the lock mechanism. If you feel no connection, then you know the problem.

The connection is between a plastic "U" shaped socket and a metal "I" shaped screw-oar-thingie. The two snaps in place horizontally (as in, not by pushing the plug into the socket directly end to end, but "sliding in" the plug into the side opening of the socket - which is why the socket is U shaped, to give you the side opening to slide the "plug" in).

It may even just be simple disconnection of this mechanism. Good luck.

Edited by Jinster
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There is no resistance, it just slips back and forth.

I've been leaving the car unlocked and when it "needs" to be locked I will lock the passenger side (which locks the whole car) and open the car by unlocking the passenger side and reaching across and opening from the inside.

This week it is supposed to "heat up" (Minneapolis) and be in the 30's so I'll have a go at taking off the door card and doing some research inside the door.

Thanks everyone for the help so far!

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  • 2 weeks later...

There is no resistance, it just slips back and forth.

I've been leaving the car unlocked and when it "needs" to be locked I will lock the passenger side (which locks the whole car) and open the car by unlocking the passenger side and reaching across and opening from the inside.

This week it is supposed to "heat up" (Minneapolis) and be in the 30's so I'll have a go at taking off the door card and doing some research inside the door.

Thanks everyone for the help so far!

Just fixed this problem on my car today. I had the same issue where the key didn't offer any resistance when I turned it. The fix took about 2 or 3 hours.

You'll need to buy a used lock mechanism on Ebay. I found one where the seller was asking $50 but took a best offer of $40. Disassemble that lock first to get familiar with how it comes apart and goes back together.

Then remove your door panel, lock and then disassemble your lock mechanism. The last circular ring that you remove in the lock will most likely have broken tabs on it. It's this part that you need to swap into your lock. Then put everything back together and you're back in business!

Edited by DaveFL1976
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  • 2 years later...

Hello,

Has anyone had any issues with door aligment on boxsters which result in the lock mechanism not working properly? I have replaced my lock mechanism recently and have had the lock (error message with the lock I'm told ) reset with the durametric system and still have the issue. When I turn the key to lock the door it locks and makes another locking noise immediately which unlocks the door. Sometimes if I do it twice it may lock but when I try to unlock the car the windows come down about an inch or so but the door wont open. So....if I lean in to the door a little bit I hear a click and I can unlock the door after that. I have tried to adjust the latch on the door jamb and can get it to lock but when I try to unlock it I have to do the leaning thing. However, if its hot outside, the door wont lock or unlock properly. I also get the flashers blinking randomly if the car is locked. Please help. I have now spent almost $1,000 and countless hours and I am still struggling with it.

Thank you in advance for any feedback.

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Hello,

Has anyone had any issues with door aligment on boxsters which result in the lock mechanism not working properly? I have replaced my lock mechanism recently and have had the lock (error message with the lock I'm told ) reset with the durametric system and still have the issue. When I turn the key to lock the door it locks and makes another locking noise immediately which unlocks the door. Sometimes if I do it twice it may lock but when I try to unlock the car the windows come down about an inch or so but the door wont open. So....if I lean in to the door a little bit I hear a click and I can unlock the door after that. I have tried to adjust the latch on the door jamb and can get it to lock but when I try to unlock it I have to do the leaning thing. However, if its hot outside, the door wont lock or unlock properly. I also get the flashers blinking randomly if the car is locked. Please help. I have now spent almost $1,000 and countless hours and I am still struggling with it.

Thank you in advance for any feedback.

Quite a few TSBs relating to Boxster door problems - these are available to our Contributing Members.

post-1-0-32186200-1375475995_thumb.png

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Hello,

Has anyone had any issues with door aligment on boxsters which result in the lock mechanism not working properly?

..............However, if its hot outside, the door wont lock or unlock properly.....

The heat affecting the operation of the door lock may be an indication of a failure of some of the solder connections inside the door lock assembly.

IIRC, there are five solder connections which are located on the circuit board roughly in the area indicated under the red circle I have drawn on this photograph:

post-6627-0-16598900-1375539494_thumb.jp

When you take the assembly apart, you will find little solder "cones" on the circuit board. Inside of each cone is the termination of an electrical wire. You have to look at the "cone" solder connection with a magnifying glass to detect the minute cracks in that solder joint. If you reflow the solder connections at each of those "cones", it will eliminate the intermittent nature of the connection. The cracks are so small that when the car is parked with the door in the sun it will result in a change in the connection/disconnection of the wire to the circuit board.

I plan on taking apart another one of these assemblies and will post photos of the inside circuit board, showing the cones and their cracks.

Regards, Maurice.

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