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Hello to all,

I am new to this forum as my wife and I will be receiving our 2005 Cayenne S in a few days. I had read that the plastic coolant lines on the Cayenne have a tendency to crack which can be quite a disaster. Upon the negotiations with the dealer, they agreed to include the new aluminum plumbing kit with the sale of the vehicle. I am very mechanically handy and will be doing a complete Step-By-Step DIY write-up instruction manual filled with high definition color pictures and posting it here in the forum for other members that would like to accomplish this job without paying dealer service fees.

What I am specifically looking for are the torque specs for each of the bolts that I will be removing and re-installing.

I thank you for your time, this looks to be a great forum.

All my best,

-Cameron

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Hello to all,

I am new to this forum as my wife and I will be receiving our 2005 Cayenne S in a few days. I had read that the plastic coolant lines on the Cayenne have a tendency to crack which can be quite a disaster. Upon the negotiations with the dealer, they agreed to include the new aluminum plumbing kit with the sale of the vehicle. I am very mechanically handy and will be doing a complete Step-By-Step DIY write-up instruction manual filled with high definition color pictures and posting it here in the forum for other members that would like to accomplish this job without paying dealer service fees.

What I am specifically looking for are the torque specs for each of the bolts that I will be removing and re-installing.

I thank you for your time, this looks to be a great forum.

All my best,

-Cameron

I looked at the torque specs when I did the job. I can't remember them specifically, but the intake manifold was 17ft-lbs ish. and the thermostat housing was ~10ft-lbs. Those are the only really critical pieces. For the others just use common sense and you'll be fine.

PS I replaced my thermostat too. I hate how older cars take longer to warm up in the winter.

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I looked at the torque specs when I did the job. I can't remember them specifically, but the intake manifold was 17ft-lbs ish. and the thermostat housing was ~10ft-lbs. Those are the only really critical pieces. For the others just use common sense and you'll be fine.

PS I replaced my thermostat too. I hate how older cars take longer to warm up in the winter.

Jagman1,

Thank you kindly for the information you have provided in regards to the torque specifications for the more critical parts of the install, I greatly appreciate it. Good idea doing the thermostat at the same time of the install, I think I'll follow your lead on this one and do the same.

Best regards,

-Cameron

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while you are in there - consdier doing the starter as well. If there has been any coolant leak, it gets into the starter and messes it up. It would be a kick in the teath to do the pipes, and a year later have to take it all apart to do a starter.

brent

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while you are in there - consdier doing the starter as well. If there has been any coolant leak, it gets into the starter and messes it up. It would be a kick in the teath to do the pipes, and a year later have to take it all apart to do a starter.

brent

Brent,

Thank you for your advice, I did notice that in a picture I saw... the starter was directly under all of these coolant pipes. Do you know the average life of these starters (not including ones that were coolant soaked)?

Thank you Brent for your time, it is greatly appreciated.

Best regards,

-Cameron

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Difficult to tell from the workshop manual but it does NOT mention anything about removing the coolant pipes before removing the starter. You may be able to do this be removing the intake manifold only.

Cheers

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Difficult to tell from the workshop manual but it does NOT mention anything about removing the coolant pipes before removing the starter. You may be able to do this be removing the intake manifold only.

Cheers

Rizzo,

You bring up an interesting point with regard to the work shop manual, if the coolant pipes can remain intact for the replacement of the starter I may just hold off on replacing it at this time. When I begin the work on the coolant pipes, the first thing I will look at once the intake manifold is removed is if the starter is accessible.

I pick up the CS from the dealer tomorrow, so I will be changing out the coolant lines in a week or so. I'll do the complete write up with high quality color pictures so that this forum has a step by step instruction manual for this process, should anyone in the future wish to tackle this install themselves.

Take care, and a big thanks to everyone for their inputs, I greatly appreciate it all!

-Cameron

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It only takes 45 minutes to an hour to get the intake manifold off to get at the starter. I'd say leave it be. It by no means is any harder to change than any other starter despite its unusual location.

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It only takes 45 minutes to an hour to get the intake manifold off to get at the starter. I'd say leave it be. It by no means is any harder to change than any other starter despite its unusual location.

Jagman,

Thank you for your post... it is encouraging to hear that it will take less than an hour to get through the intake manifold, this coolant pipe change shouldn't take too long with all things considered. As mentioned, if the starter is accessible with the coolant plumbing intact, then I will leave it be until the time comes to naturally change it.

:thankyou:

-Cameron

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Does anyone have step by steps to remove the intake manifold to get to the coolant pipes? (also the reassembly :D )

I saw that you were suggesting to replace the thermostat as well. is there anything else maintenance wise i should address while I have it apart? ie. injectors?

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Does anyone have step by steps to remove the intake manifold to get to the coolant pipes? (also the reassembly :D )

I saw that you were suggesting to replace the thermostat as well. is there anything else maintenance wise i should address while I have it apart? ie. injectors?

:welcome:

Please give our search a try next time...

  • Upvote 1

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Thanks for the link. I'm a noob so i didn't use the search. As an FYI to any one doing this repair, got my parts from pelicanparts.com and the coolant pipe upgrade kit from Sonnen Porsche. they have an OEM parts link that was great and the price was $445 with shipping. Don't forget to order intake gaskets, the Kluber lube, coolant, thermostat and O ring, I'm also replacing my upper and lower radiator hoses as part of the Cayenne's regular maintenance. Gonna dive in this weekend or next.

Thank you to this forum and all the input from everyone. Will let you know how i come out on the other side.

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Difficult to tell from the workshop manual but it does NOT mention anything about removing the coolant pipes before removing the starter. You may be able to do this be removing the intake manifold only.

Cheers

When we were doing my coolant pipes I looked to see if it was possible to R&R the starter without touching the pipes - and from everything I saw, it is. One bolt will have to be removed more or less blind, but once the bolts are out, it appeared that turning it and some wiggling, it would come right out past the pipes. I suspect that is the reason the pipes are curved like they are..

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deilenberger,

do you happen to know what the torque settings are for the intake manifold bolts? I am getting ready to replace my starter (since I was an idiot and didn't do it with the coolant pipe replacement) but can only locate a note from someone who said it was 17ft-lbish.

just an fyi to anyone with the coolant pipe issue, you can get a starter off ebay for around 80$. that's what I paid for mine, its worth replacing at the same time as coolant pipes. I had my pipes replaced and here I am not 2 months after and I have to tear off that manifold AGAIN to replace the starter....

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Hello, according to the Porsche workshop manual here are the torque (first and second tight) and which order to follow

First tighten 10 Nm

Second 15 Nm

post-94562-0-71593800-1395984188_thumb.j

post-94562-0-49069200-1395984200_thumb.j

Edited by cesarblanco

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FYI for anyone attempting this. I did it over the weekend, the top 3 coolant line MUST be removed if you have the aluminum pipes. The starter will not come out, the mounting bracket on it is too wide and will not get past the pipes. Complete removal is not necessary, you can drain out some of the coolant and remove the bolts and line from thermostat housing and lift them up slightly to get the starter out and new one in.

This was an 8+ hour job and exhausting to boot but saved me well over 1000$ doing it myself, not difficult at all.

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