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v8huntr

lowest price for B&M

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hello,

i'm thinking about adding B&M shifter to my 996. i have shopped around for deal and best i found was $254.-- do you guys know where i can get good deal on shifter. also, is it hard to install? i need to get one by thursday afternoon and i'm in Virginia.

Thx

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The installation process only takes about two hours. That hardest part is removing the stock plastic bushings and that's not hard at all. One thing the instructions doesn't say is to remove the little square plastic piece that fits on the stock shifter. You don't need that little plastic piece because it won't fit on the B&M shifter. Also, go down to your local hardware store and buy a lock washer for the jam nut. I think it's a 12mm I.D.. If you don't install one, the nut will loosen and then you'll have all sorts of play that you don't want. One last thing, make sure you mark the cables good so you know what the thread count is. You're going to love the difference. B)

Titanmotorsports- B&M Short Shift kit for $235.00 plus S+H.

P.S. That's the right kit for the 996 too!

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I recently looked around and I ended up getting mine from Bobby at Foreign Affairs in Florida. I think they are going for $199 plus $16 for shipping. I think this is a special price so, you may want to mention that you saw this price on the internet. Here is their site with contact info.

http://www.2fam.com

I do not have any business or personal interest in them.

b-man

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OK- what if the thread count on the left cable was slightly off from the original setting... a little on the short side?

This is what happened to me in HASTE :oops: last year. My shifter is slightly tilted toward the driver's side, but the play on the tranny is the same. Has this changed the dynamics/efficiency of changing gears?

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thx guys.

one more thing, is it hard to remove the center console?

also, what is it mean by adjusting the thread count?

thx again.

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The B&M install is fairly straight forward, but there are some caveats. You should mark the cables before removal from the plastic connections. The best way is to use the Porsche special bridge tool ( about $8) and set the stock shifter to TDC, mark the cables with tape and remove them. Re-installation should be easier if they are marked. I found variation between the way the shifter was installed from the factory and when I set it up using the special bridge tool (about 2-3 threads off on each side).

The center console removes easy with a series of Torx 20,25 screws. It should easily come out with the passenger seat laid back. Be careful removing the plastic panels, the tabs break easily.

The install is very straight forward, only thing you have to remove/destroy the stock factory bushings which makes re-installation of the stock shifter problematic, though not impossible. For example, I use the EVO needle bearings on the stock shifter and the B&M, with this setup the shifter can be changed in 30" or less... But I think the B&M feels best with the B&M bushings. It tends to feel as though it has a little too much play with the EVO needle bearings, although there is no adjustment to worry about.

Having looked at this "problem" of destroying the bushings, there may be a way to remove them without cutting them, though I haven't had a chance to test my theory yet. I think if you could get a screw type metal hose clamp around the bushing you might be able to compress the tabs enough to remove the thing in one piece. Might be worth a try...

Edited by dj996

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i have local porsche shop and they want $150 to install the shifter. is it worth the price or should i do it? i have done many installs on other

cars but never on p-car.

thx

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The instructions that come with the shift are good, except they do not tell you to mark the shift cables.

If you can wait there will be a DVD on how to do it out in the near future. Jeff

dvd_of_all_3_new.sized.jpg

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what do you mean by marking the cables? where is it? i have never done cars with cables. i always had front engine rear wheel drive cars.

Thx

btw, i got the b&m from www.2fam.com for $210.--. sale was over but still great price. :)

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There are a couple of ways to mark the cables. To know what we are talking about look at the PDF instructions in the link above.

Some folks like to mark the cable positions with tape before disconnecting them so that when you put the new shifter in you have little or no adjustment needed. Another method (for those with good eyesight) is to count the number of threads the coupler is from the end of the cable (usually 5-7 threads). The when you reattach the cables you just put them back at the same thread count.

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just finished installing the b&m shifter and i have to say it works great. it took me about 2hours and now car is more fun to drive. thanks for helping me out.

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my shift knob will not center itself. it was like this with factory shifter and oiling the cables didn't help. what should i do?

thx

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Sounds like the threaded setscrew adjustment (near locknut) is too tight. Back off on that about 1/2 turn and re-tighten the locknut. You can try it before you reassemble everything. The spring should cause the shifter to self-return.

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If the oem shift would not center itself and return to neutral then putting in a B&M is not going to change the problem. The problem must be in the cables, or maybe the transmission. Give me your year and model and I will have to ask Peter. Jeff

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