Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sign in to follow this  
lendy

Need a rebuilt engine in South NJ due to Intermix

Recommended Posts

    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Btw, the dealer telling you does not mean anything. There is a difference between for example a cracked head gasket at around 2.5k, or a cracked cylinder requiring a full rebuild. I have sent you a PM for a good engine, but before you might want to take the car to a reputable indy, and have him look at it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello All,

Found I have the Intermix problem on a 2000 996 with 73k miles.

The oil cooler is solid so must be the engine the dealer tells me.

Anyone have any experience with Motor Meister rebuilds?

http://www.motormeis...1_engines_5.htm

The price is about $6k to rebuild my engine, sound fair?

Please stay away from MotorMeister. They are bad news....Used parts, Poor workmanship etc...Do a search here and you will get more bad reviews.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is not an attempt to derail their business model, but it is important that one consider these points should anyone decide to have them disassemble an engine and then reassemble it again. Call this a public service announcement and you are free to make your own informed descision. This post is as objective and factual as it can be. Just reading what they have to sell and asking myself, would I do that to my own engine? I am a Porsche owner, but not a business owner, nor employed in the trade.

Some of the fine print quoted from their auction:

"Price listed do not cover any shipping, installations, removals, taxes, towing, storage, oils, lubes and gas. Prices maybe substantially higher. Pictures and Videos are for illustration only. Price listed do not cover any parts that are broken, burnt, bent, worn or incorrect."

"All Porsche motors sold come with full warranty on all parts and labor sold!"

"Returns: 7 day money back, buyer pays return shipping"

"all parts listed above are on rebuilding customer’s motor & parts keeping original case serial numbers"

The auction claims to sell the buyer about $900 worth (retail price before discount) of parts and re-uses everything else already in your engine. I'm not saying that it wouldn't freshen up a few components and do some good with all the cleaning and inspection they claim to do and with those new parts. And it is a good thing if there is actual two-way customer interaction during the rebuild and if they notice a problem and a part is replaced. I'm on the fence with that respect since I don't have personal experience with their process, but if you are OK with that type of business model instead of being up front and straightforward and honest up front about what needs to be done then that is your choice.

Regarding the intermix repair. I'm not saying they couldn't repair one, becaue I'm sure they could have the heads repaired, but that is not listed in this auction description. In short, the chances of an ebay motormeister rebuild repairing an intermix issue due to cracked head or cylinder (or even oil cooler or AOS) are just about 0%. There is a 0.000000000001% chance it would get fixed, because one of the genuine parts they do actually replace are the head gaskets - which pretty much never fail on this engine.

There are many bullet points listed in their auction that I would ask for more qualification on, you can be the judge depending on their answers. I am sure they are fully capable of performing these services as detailed correctly below, however since they are not included in the auction description prepared to pay substantially more than their $6,000 price tag. And to their credit, they do offer this warning in their auction as I quoted above that it could cost considerably more.

  • They "prep" the cylinder walls. The only possible preparation for used, worn, and oval Lokasil cylinders are 1.) overbore with weight matched piston (which apparently has low success probability), 2.) cast iron sleeves (which is not recommended due to heat), 3.) Nikasil sleeves, or 4) crankcase replacement. I would ask motormeister exactly what they do to prep the cylinders. Do they use any abrasives or polishing agents on the Lokasil? How do they plan to make up the difference in clearance once the material is gone if they are re-using your old stock pistons and new piston rings?
  • They test and clean the piston jets. But these are $6.50 items, why not just replace them?
  • They list "German" for crankshaft. Well, yes it is German, but how does that apply to the work they are doing on it?
  • They say the connecting rods will "rebuilt in spec". If a rod needs to be rebuilt, it should be replaced. Or how do they plan to rebuild it?
  • They reuse your existing pistons and only provide you with "1 piston rings". So are they reusing 5 of your existing rings, or is this a typo and they mean 6 ring sets? (which increases the parts cost by $600 up to $1500 MSRP if they replace all six ring sets) The chances of getting a good ring seal and compression by using your old pistons and new rings without any "documented to work" cylinder preparation (as I list above) are slim to none.
  • The valve job does not appear to include pressure or vacuum testing, which are critical - especially in the case of intermix repair. Even without the repair, how will they know if there are not any cracks or if they've achieved good valve seat seal once they are done with the cuts?
  • In the valve job, they make no mention of inspecting the valves or valve guides for tolerances, and replacing them should they be too worn. This is perhaps one of the most critical parts of the valve job.
  • They clean and inspect the "valve holder cage". I think they mean lifter carrier.
  • They flush out the oil cooler. Since the water and oil pumps do a pretty good job of flushing it out continuously as you run the engine, what would be more useful is to pressure test it to see if it is the source of intermix.
  • There is a lot of resurfacing of mating surfaces, and while this is a good idea for certain things such as heads and crank case, it is questionable practice in my opinion for things like oil pump housing, thermostat housing, oil pan, etc.
  • They say they will hand inspect, dissaseemble, reassemble and reseal your 2 oil pumps. The engine has 3 oil pumps, not 2. The two scavange pumps are not meant to be dissasembled, and on a high milage engine, they should just be replaced at about $150 each. On the third main oil pump, the piston, spring, and hex driver should be replaced.
  • They polish the IMS tube shaft journals. Well last I checked the IMS tube rides on a film of oil on the oil pump console at one end and the controversial sealed ims bearing at the other end. The tube has sprockets for the drive chains and crank, but where are the journals they speak of?
  • Assuming a high milaege engine, several lifters are likely colllapsed at which point the guidance is to replace them ALL.
  • They resurface the camshaft bearings, yet do they also build up and regrind the cam shaft so it mates properly?
  • They inspect the cam covers for chain damage. If any of the chains came into contact with the camshaft cover during normal operation, the engine would be toast.
  • They inspect and clean the 3 paddle/chain tensioners yet on a high milage engine should be replaced especially if there is scoring, at about $75 each.
  • They make no mention of inspecting for mushrooming or replacing the variocam actuators.
  • There is no mention of replacing the main drive chains or IMS to crank chain on a 5 chain engine, nor the chain paddles.
  • There is no mention of inspecting the coil packs or replacing spark plugs
  • There is no mention of replacing the air oil seperator, another $100 item prone to failure and while you are in there.
  • No mention of inspecting or replacing worn hoses or tubes
  • No mention of inspecting or overhauling the secondary air injection system.
  • They don't replace the oil filler tube, which is very inexpnsive and prone to leaks.
  • There are countless orings and gaskets such as the intake manifold, intake riser, throttle body, brake booster to intake, cam position sensor orings, AOS tube orings, AOS breather, etc. etc. etc. they do not mention will be replaced.
  • They make no mention of replacing the main or head bolts, as they are single use items. Once they've been stretched to torque you have to toss them in the trash.
  • They replace the spark tube seals but not the tubes, which are just a few dollars.
  • They replace the tensioner dust boot. What is a tensioner dust boot?
  • They say that they use an oil pan gasket made by "German Reinz". There is not an oil pan gasket on this engine. The sealing agent is RTV, or Loctite 5900.
  • They install zinc plated lock nuts (not sure where). Zinc is prone to rust. Why not use automotive grade stainless or hardened metals?
  • There is a large list of parts including single use micro encapsulated hardware, orings, gaskets, seals, etc that are not included in their auction description that I would recommend replacing while you are in there items because they are inexpensive, and in my opionion using used parts in a new rebuild is not a wise idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the incredible feedback.

I'm finding what I need is a reliable indie shop in South New Jersey. Anyone have a suggestion?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is not an attempt to derail their business model, but it is important that one consider these points should anyone decide to have them disassemble an engine and then reassemble it again. Call this a public service announcement and you are free to make your own informed descision. This post is as objective and factual as it can be. Just reading what they have to sell and asking myself, would I do that to my own engine? I am a Porsche owner, but not a business owner, nor employed in the trade.

Some of the fine print quoted from their auction:

"Price listed do not cover any shipping, installations, removals, taxes, towing, storage, oils, lubes and gas. Prices maybe substantially higher. Pictures and Videos are for illustration only. Price listed do not cover any parts that are broken, burnt, bent, worn or incorrect."

"All Porsche motors sold come with full warranty on all parts and labor sold!"

"Returns: 7 day money back, buyer pays return shipping"

"all parts listed above are on rebuilding customer’s motor & parts keeping original case serial numbers"

The auction claims to sell the buyer about $900 worth (retail price before discount) of parts and re-uses everything else already in your engine. I'm not saying that it wouldn't freshen up a few components and do some good with all the cleaning and inspection they claim to do and with those new parts. And it is a good thing if there is actual two-way customer interaction during the rebuild and if they notice a problem and a part is replaced. I'm on the fence with that respect since I don't have personal experience with their process, but if you are OK with that type of business model instead of being up front and straightforward and honest up front about what needs to be done then that is your choice.

Regarding the intermix repair. I'm not saying they couldn't repair one, becaue I'm sure they could have the heads repaired, but that is not listed in this auction description. In short, the chances of an ebay motormeister rebuild repairing an intermix issue due to cracked head or cylinder (or even oil cooler or AOS) are just about 0%. There is a 0.000000000001% chance it would get fixed, because one of the genuine parts they do actually replace are the head gaskets - which pretty much never fail on this engine.

There are many bullet points listed in their auction that I would ask for more qualification on, you can be the judge depending on their answers. I am sure they are fully capable of performing these services as detailed correctly below, however since they are not included in the auction description prepared to pay substantially more than their $6,000 price tag. And to their credit, they do offer this warning in their auction as I quoted above that it could cost considerably more.

  • They "prep" the cylinder walls. The only possible preparation for used, worn, and oval Lokasil cylinders are 1.) overbore with weight matched piston (which apparently has low success probability), 2.) cast iron sleeves (which is not recommended due to heat), 3.) Nikasil sleeves, or 4) crankcase replacement. I would ask motormeister exactly what they do to prep the cylinders. Do they use any abrasives or polishing agents on the Lokasil? How do they plan to make up the difference in clearance once the material is gone if they are re-using your old stock pistons and new piston rings?
  • They test and clean the piston jets. But these are $6.50 items, why not just replace them?
  • They list "German" for crankshaft. Well, yes it is German, but how does that apply to the work they are doing on it?
  • They say the connecting rods will "rebuilt in spec". If a rod needs to be rebuilt, it should be replaced. Or how do they plan to rebuild it?
  • They reuse your existing pistons and only provide you with "1 piston rings". So are they reusing 5 of your existing rings, or is this a typo and they mean 6 ring sets? (which increases the parts cost by $600 up to $1500 MSRP if they replace all six ring sets) The chances of getting a good ring seal and compression by using your old pistons and new rings without any "documented to work" cylinder preparation (as I list above) are slim to none.
  • The valve job does not appear to include pressure or vacuum testing, which are critical - especially in the case of intermix repair. Even without the repair, how will they know if there are not any cracks or if they've achieved good valve seat seal once they are done with the cuts?
  • In the valve job, they make no mention of inspecting the valves or valve guides for tolerances, and replacing them should they be too worn. This is perhaps one of the most critical parts of the valve job.
  • They clean and inspect the "valve holder cage". I think they mean lifter carrier.
  • They flush out the oil cooler. Since the water and oil pumps do a pretty good job of flushing it out continuously as you run the engine, what would be more useful is to pressure test it to see if it is the source of intermix.
  • There is a lot of resurfacing of mating surfaces, and while this is a good idea for certain things such as heads and crank case, it is questionable practice in my opinion for things like oil pump housing, thermostat housing, oil pan, etc.
  • They say they will hand inspect, dissaseemble, reassemble and reseal your 2 oil pumps. The engine has 3 oil pumps, not 2. The two scavange pumps are not meant to be dissasembled, and on a high milage engine, they should just be replaced at about $150 each. On the third main oil pump, the piston, spring, and hex driver should be replaced.
  • They polish the IMS tube shaft journals. Well last I checked the IMS tube rides on a film of oil on the oil pump console at one end and the controversial sealed ims bearing at the other end. The tube has sprockets for the drive chains and crank, but where are the journals they speak of?
  • Assuming a high milaege engine, several lifters are likely colllapsed at which point the guidance is to replace them ALL.
  • They resurface the camshaft bearings, yet do they also build up and regrind the cam shaft so it mates properly?
  • They inspect the cam covers for chain damage. If any of the chains came into contact with the camshaft cover during normal operation, the engine would be toast.
  • They inspect and clean the 3 paddle/chain tensioners yet on a high milage engine should be replaced especially if there is scoring, at about $75 each.
  • They make no mention of inspecting for mushrooming or replacing the variocam actuators.
  • There is no mention of replacing the main drive chains or IMS to crank chain on a 5 chain engine, nor the chain paddles.
  • There is no mention of inspecting the coil packs or replacing spark plugs
  • There is no mention of replacing the air oil seperator, another $100 item prone to failure and while you are in there.
  • No mention of inspecting or replacing worn hoses or tubes
  • No mention of inspecting or overhauling the secondary air injection system.
  • They don't replace the oil filler tube, which is very inexpnsive and prone to leaks.
  • There are countless orings and gaskets such as the intake manifold, intake riser, throttle body, brake booster to intake, cam position sensor orings, AOS tube orings, AOS breather, etc. etc. etc. they do not mention will be replaced.
  • They make no mention of replacing the main or head bolts, as they are single use items. Once they've been stretched to torque you have to toss them in the trash.
  • They replace the spark tube seals but not the tubes, which are just a few dollars.
  • They replace the tensioner dust boot. What is a tensioner dust boot?
  • They say that they use an oil pan gasket made by "German Reinz". There is not an oil pan gasket on this engine. The sealing agent is RTV, or Loctite 5900.
  • They install zinc plated lock nuts (not sure where). Zinc is prone to rust. Why not use automotive grade stainless or hardened metals?
  • There is a large list of parts including single use micro encapsulated hardware, orings, gaskets, seals, etc that are not included in their auction description that I would recommend replacing while you are in there items because they are inexpensive, and in my opionion using used parts in a new rebuild is not a wise idea.

Awesome write up. Many Porsche owners with engine failure should thank you for this. :thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just Google Motormeister and you will find pages and pages of angry customers.

Your intermix problem could be a cracked head, which is significantly cheaper to fix than a full rebuild. Do a search here and on Rennlist for threads by Dharn. He's posted some excellent write-ups concerning his experience with that issue. I believe he has a 2000 C2, as do I.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is not an attempt to derail their business model, but it is important that one consider these points should anyone decide to have them disassemble an engine and then reassemble it again. Call this a public service announcement and you are free to make your own informed descision. This post is as objective and factual as it can be. Just reading what they have to sell and asking myself, would I do that to my own engine? I am a Porsche owner, but not a business owner, nor employed in the trade.

Some of the fine print quoted from their auction:

"Price listed do not cover any shipping, installations, removals, taxes, towing, storage, oils, lubes and gas. Prices maybe substantially higher. Pictures and Videos are for illustration only. Price listed do not cover any parts that are broken, burnt, bent, worn or incorrect."

"All Porsche motors sold come with full warranty on all parts and labor sold!"

"Returns: 7 day money back, buyer pays return shipping"

"all parts listed above are on rebuilding customer’s motor & parts keeping original case serial numbers"

The auction claims to sell the buyer about $900 worth (retail price before discount) of parts and re-uses everything else already in your engine. I'm not saying that it wouldn't freshen up a few components and do some good with all the cleaning and inspection they claim to do and with those new parts. And it is a good thing if there is actual two-way customer interaction during the rebuild and if they notice a problem and a part is replaced. I'm on the fence with that respect since I don't have personal experience with their process, but if you are OK with that type of business model instead of being up front and straightforward and honest up front about what needs to be done then that is your choice.

Regarding the intermix repair. I'm not saying they couldn't repair one, becaue I'm sure they could have the heads repaired, but that is not listed in this auction description. In short, the chances of an ebay motormeister rebuild repairing an intermix issue due to cracked head or cylinder (or even oil cooler or AOS) are just about 0%. There is a 0.000000000001% chance it would get fixed, because one of the genuine parts they do actually replace are the head gaskets - which pretty much never fail on this engine.

There are many bullet points listed in their auction that I would ask for more qualification on, you can be the judge depending on their answers. I am sure they are fully capable of performing these services as detailed correctly below, however since they are not included in the auction description prepared to pay substantially more than their $6,000 price tag. And to their credit, they do offer this warning in their auction as I quoted above that it could cost considerably more.

  • They "prep" the cylinder walls. The only possible preparation for used, worn, and oval Lokasil cylinders are 1.) overbore with weight matched piston (which apparently has low success probability), 2.) cast iron sleeves (which is not recommended due to heat), 3.) Nikasil sleeves, or 4) crankcase replacement. I would ask motormeister exactly what they do to prep the cylinders. Do they use any abrasives or polishing agents on the Lokasil? How do they plan to make up the difference in clearance once the material is gone if they are re-using your old stock pistons and new piston rings?
  • They test and clean the piston jets. But these are $6.50 items, why not just replace them?
  • They list "German" for crankshaft. Well, yes it is German, but how does that apply to the work they are doing on it?
  • They say the connecting rods will "rebuilt in spec". If a rod needs to be rebuilt, it should be replaced. Or how do they plan to rebuild it?
  • They reuse your existing pistons and only provide you with "1 piston rings". So are they reusing 5 of your existing rings, or is this a typo and they mean 6 ring sets? (which increases the parts cost by $600 up to $1500 MSRP if they replace all six ring sets) The chances of getting a good ring seal and compression by using your old pistons and new rings without any "documented to work" cylinder preparation (as I list above) are slim to none.
  • The valve job does not appear to include pressure or vacuum testing, which are critical - especially in the case of intermix repair. Even without the repair, how will they know if there are not any cracks or if they've achieved good valve seat seal once they are done with the cuts?
  • In the valve job, they make no mention of inspecting the valves or valve guides for tolerances, and replacing them should they be too worn. This is perhaps one of the most critical parts of the valve job.
  • They clean and inspect the "valve holder cage". I think they mean lifter carrier.
  • They flush out the oil cooler. Since the water and oil pumps do a pretty good job of flushing it out continuously as you run the engine, what would be more useful is to pressure test it to see if it is the source of intermix.
  • There is a lot of resurfacing of mating surfaces, and while this is a good idea for certain things such as heads and crank case, it is questionable practice in my opinion for things like oil pump housing, thermostat housing, oil pan, etc.
  • They say they will hand inspect, dissaseemble, reassemble and reseal your 2 oil pumps. The engine has 3 oil pumps, not 2. The two scavange pumps are not meant to be dissasembled, and on a high milage engine, they should just be replaced at about $150 each. On the third main oil pump, the piston, spring, and hex driver should be replaced.
  • They polish the IMS tube shaft journals. Well last I checked the IMS tube rides on a film of oil on the oil pump console at one end and the controversial sealed ims bearing at the other end. The tube has sprockets for the drive chains and crank, but where are the journals they speak of?
  • Assuming a high milaege engine, several lifters are likely colllapsed at which point the guidance is to replace them ALL.
  • They resurface the camshaft bearings, yet do they also build up and regrind the cam shaft so it mates properly?
  • They inspect the cam covers for chain damage. If any of the chains came into contact with the camshaft cover during normal operation, the engine would be toast.
  • They inspect and clean the 3 paddle/chain tensioners yet on a high milage engine should be replaced especially if there is scoring, at about $75 each.
  • They make no mention of inspecting for mushrooming or replacing the variocam actuators.
  • There is no mention of replacing the main drive chains or IMS to crank chain on a 5 chain engine, nor the chain paddles.
  • There is no mention of inspecting the coil packs or replacing spark plugs
  • There is no mention of replacing the air oil seperator, another $100 item prone to failure and while you are in there.
  • No mention of inspecting or replacing worn hoses or tubes
  • No mention of inspecting or overhauling the secondary air injection system.
  • They don't replace the oil filler tube, which is very inexpnsive and prone to leaks.
  • There are countless orings and gaskets such as the intake manifold, intake riser, throttle body, brake booster to intake, cam position sensor orings, AOS tube orings, AOS breather, etc. etc. etc. they do not mention will be replaced.
  • They make no mention of replacing the main or head bolts, as they are single use items. Once they've been stretched to torque you have to toss them in the trash.
  • They replace the spark tube seals but not the tubes, which are just a few dollars.
  • They replace the tensioner dust boot. What is a tensioner dust boot?
  • They say that they use an oil pan gasket made by "German Reinz". There is not an oil pan gasket on this engine. The sealing agent is RTV, or Loctite 5900.
  • They install zinc plated lock nuts (not sure where). Zinc is prone to rust. Why not use automotive grade stainless or hardened metals?
  • There is a large list of parts including single use micro encapsulated hardware, orings, gaskets, seals, etc that are not included in their auction description that I would recommend replacing while you are in there items because they are inexpensive, and in my opionion using used parts in a new rebuild is not a wise idea.

Awesome write up. Many Porsche owners with engine failure should thank you for this. :thumbup:

Thank you all, I almost brought my car to them. @ Phillipj .. can you recommmend a indie mechanic in So Cal area, had a IMS failure, engine still was running when shut off. Would like to find an honest guy to tell me if the whole thing needs rebuiling or he can save my engine?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Duane at visionmotorsports... philipj did recommend it to me and he rebuilt my engine, he's honest reliable and reasonable. lake forest area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes Dani,

Call Duane at Vision Motorsports. They do good work and are honest. Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the incredible feedback.

I'm finding what I need is a reliable indie shop in South New Jersey. Anyone have a suggestion?

Bodymotion is one. They did a friends engine and he was/is happy with the result. http://www.bodymotion.com/

If you can get it to Power Tech in Rockaway they are very good with these engines. http://www.pwr-tech.com/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Michael hurta
      Hi - 2002 996: Scoured the lists but can't find this particular cluster problem anywhere.  In short, my salvage cluster shows a list of errors on start up but my original was fine....  Here's the details.  My current cluster shows an intermittent airbag failure warning on the led screen followed by the idiot light.  It usually occurs at start up, clears at the stalk and the idiot light remains on, but flickers on occasion.  My mechanic had ruled out everything he could related to the airbag warnings and since he didn't have a spare cluster, couldn't swap to test for that. I personally purchased a salvage cluster, removed the battery terminals, installed it and it came to life (I'm also having to buy replacement connector housings because mine disintegrated).  The problem is the info screen pretty much scrolled through a variety of issues like oil pressure feedback, temp feedback, fuel feedback, etc.  The oil pressure gage was also unresponsive.  I expected the odometer to be wrong, but didn't expect all the errors.  I also started the car and while it ran, it did run rough, sputtered a bit.  Do I have a bad salvaged cluster?  Does the cluster need to be programmed (beside the odometer)?  
    • By Kevin Bryck
      2002 996
       
      Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts!
       
      Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size.
      While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand.
      Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive.
       
      We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps.
       
      Anyone know how to remove old adhesive?
      Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with?
      Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year?
       
      Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
       
       



    • By stephen magee
      wires came out of my camshaft sensor and not sure what order they are
       
    • By Kevin Bryck
      Okay this is REALLY specific.
      The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
      The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
      Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
      Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
       
      Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
      Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
      Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
      Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
      Right cable threaded into frame at top
      Right cable threaded into frame at top
      Missing cable location
      Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
      Left cable
      Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
      Clip question
    • By davemac
      Hi everyone,
       
      I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago.  As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does.
       
      When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists.
       
      I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated.
       
      Many thanks,
      Dave

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.