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Wusthof

Installing eBay LED tail lights - blown fuse

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Just a quick note to highlight a common problem with the standard eBay LED Tail Light for the 996, which various vendors sell and not a single vendor (that I could find) informs customers of this issue.

The side marker connection (rear fog lamp) in the tail light assy does not need to be hooked up. This is the small connection on the outside edge of the assy. The rear side markers (rear fog lights) will function normally without using this connection. Hooking up this connection will blow the 7.5A rear fog light fuse in fuse location A4.

I purchased my lights from voltexinc, because their price was cheaper than others selling what appears to be the exact same Taiwan manufactured light assy.

After researching a couple forums, some reported problems with the "hyper" flash turn signals. I can report that this no longer appears to be a problem requiring a resistor to remedy. All other aspects of the assy were plug and play.

HTH,

Brook

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I've read, but can't verify, that the problem with the rear side-marker is that the plug is non-polarized, so it is easy to install it incorrectly and blow the fuse. If you look up auto lighting in Wikipedia, you'll see that rear side-markers are required by law. Are you saying that the rear side-markers will work even if they are not plugged in?

I read on Rennlist or 6SpeedOnline (not sure which) of someone who successfully hooked up the side markers after initially blowing the fuse.

I'm thinking of getting the same lights, but I'm confused on this issue even though I've read a lot about it.

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I've read, but can't verify, that the problem with the rear side-marker is that the plug is non-polarized, so it is easy to install it incorrectly and blow the fuse. If you look up auto lighting in Wikipedia, you'll see that rear side-markers are required by law. Are you saying that the rear side-markers will work even if they are not plugged in?

I read on Rennlist or 6SpeedOnline (not sure which) of someone who successfully hooked up the side markers after initially blowing the fuse.

I'm thinking of getting the same lights, but I'm confused on this issue even though I've read a lot about it.

Sorry to just get back to this post, I did a fire and forget. Yes, all the rear lights on the LEDs work as they should. The LEDs (at least mine) are wired to bypass the rear fog light connection. It was just strange that they still provided the connection for the bulb. On the particular LEDs that I have, the bulb just wasn't needed.

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Thanks. I'm still confused. I guess it would be easier to understand if I saw the lights and connections up close.

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I can verify that all the lights will work without plugging in the fog leads on the LEDs. The fuse will blow for sure. The only bulbs I used were the backup bulbs. The empty sockets (where the rest of the bulbs would go) plug into the LEDs. I don't ever use the rear fog so I didn't really mess with that portion. I will try to get some pics posted up tomorrow unless the OP beats me to it.

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More confused than ever. "I can verify that all lights work...the only bulbs I used were the backup bulbs...I don't ever use the rear fog..." I'm not getting this at all.

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Here are a few pics I just snapped with iPad so not the best quality.

Running lights on. Couldn't capture brakes by myself. Turn indicator activated.

The skinny wire is the one that will blow the fuse if plugged in.

post-59759-133141795131_thumb.jpg

post-59759-133141797333_thumb.jpg

post-59759-133141799024_thumb.jpg

post-59759-133141800494_thumb.jpg

post-59759-133141801634_thumb.jpg

post-59759-13314180284_thumb.jpg

post-59759-133141803598_thumb.jpg

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To continue, the female ends of the brake and running lights and reverse lights plug together with the silver male ends of the LEDs...I left one unplugged so you can see. The unused white female one shown is for the fog light. I dont use it so I just leave it empty.

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Thanks for the photos and info! This is the first time I've actually seen this. Do you know what that unused skinny wire is for? Is it just a mistake in design?

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I really have no clue what the skinny wire is for. It makes no sense to me either. I assume that the skinny wire on the stock lights is the main power feed? The LEDs power through the bulb receptacles so there is no need for it.

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This thread just saved me countless hours of troubleshooting... And I'd have never figured it out because I installed hid's in the fog lamps and was having issues at the same time. Just leave the skinny wire in the tails unplugged and everything works the way it should! Crazy.

One thing though, I have a strange whining sound in the stereo I just installed at the same time. I know, too many projects at once... But I heard that resistors on the LEDs will eliminate the problem. Where do I install it on the harness? Do I need one for each power lead on the taillight harness?

TIA!

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I've read, but can't verify, that the problem with the rear side-marker is that the plug is non-polarized, so it is easy to install it incorrectly and blow the fuse. If you look up auto lighting in Wikipedia, you'll see that rear side-markers are required by law. Are you saying that the rear side-markers will work even if they are not plugged in?

I read on Rennlist or 6SpeedOnline (not sure which) of someone who successfully hooked up the side markers after initially blowing the fuse.

I'm thinking of getting the same lights, but I'm confused on this issue even though I've read a lot about it.

I installed these earlier this year after reading every thread I could find on Rennlist and 6spo. It took a while for me to understand what was going on with the side markers and blown fuses. And you're right, it happens because the original bulbs are not polarized, but LEDs are.

The problem is that the "skinny wire" (the wire for the side markers) has a plug that can be connected either way. You have to look at the wires and make sure you connect red to red -- that is, you have to connect the red wire of the wiring harness to the red wire of the side marker plug. This ensures that the polarity is correct.

If you do this, it works OK -- at least, it did for me. If you connect it incorrectly, you'll blow the fuse.

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