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well, that was the story of my mechanic while serving it, but I ran the car for 10 mins and check the fans and both are working properly. What can be? or something to ignore?

Edited by jose
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There are two speeds to the fan - low and high.

When you turn the AC on it should go to high. Low only comes on as needed when driving without the AC on.

If high speed works and low does not then it is likely the fan ballast resistor on that side. If that is the case, then there is a DIY here

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Engine fan?

You don't mean the emissions air pump that runs for 2 minutes at startup?

If the engine compartment purge fan is on then you likely have another problem - as it rarely runs unless the engine is very hot.

The low speed radiator fans would only run as needed for cooling based on the coolant temperature. The only way to test the low speed fans (without heating the coolant up) is with Durametric software, a PST2, or PIWIS tester.

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  • 5 months later...

I'm still working here, the fuse c8,c10 are goods the relays clicks when finger is placed. now I'll do the hacking cables and figure if the fan actually works. <_<

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Can you tell which are the codes for Left cooling fan not working? Sorry for the mess.

Engine fan?

You don't mean the emissions air pump that runs for 2 minutes at startup?

If the engine compartment purge fan is on then you likely have another problem - as it rarely runs unless the engine is very hot.

The low speed radiator fans would only run as needed for cooling based on the coolant temperature. The only way to test the low speed fans (without heating the coolant up) is with Durametric software, a PST2, or PIWIS tester.

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You will need Durametric software, a PST2, or PIWIS tester to test the fans completely.

Do a search here for testing - you should be able to find out if you have a bad ballast, a bad relay, or a bad fan motor by testing.

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Well, I did the hack on the relays and the fan isn't working. I don't have durametric for now, but I'll like to know if I can get the code on other OBD scanner.

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Well, I did the hack on the relays and the fan isn't working. I don't have durametric for now, but I'll like to know if I can get the code on other OBD scanner.

No codes for fans OBD II is primarily emissions.

I highly suggest finding someone with Durametric or a Porsche tester - that way you will diagnose and buy only what you need.

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Thanks Loren,

I ordered the durametric, should be here this week. hopefully we can debugged the problem source more efficiently.

Well, I did the hack on the relays and the fan isn't working. I don't have durametric for now, but I'll like to know if I can get the code on other OBD scanner.

No codes for fans OBD II is primarily emissions.

I highly suggest finding someone with Durametric or a Porsche tester - that way you will diagnose and buy only what you need.

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Okay, I received my Durametric and perform the analysis. The engine module got a freeze frame data P1602.

I run the car and let temperature to go to 180 as usual. The driverside Low speed Fan isn't running at 180, only the passenger side is good.

Turn OFF the engine with switch ON and ran Durametric and perform the activation feature.

Engine purge fan --> Ok

Check engine light --> Ok

Fan ---> Sent command sucessfully... but did not triggered any Fans.

Where to start?

Edited by jose
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Thanks,

I know (19 low speed L),(20 high speed L),(21 low speed R),(22 high speed R).

only 19 and 21 click when I activate durametric, but any fan won't run.

Now, You mean switch 20 <--> 19 and 22<-->21? I did that before and no High speed activation on neither Fans.

Only the Driverside Low speed Fan turn ON when Temp 18*0.

Durametric don't Turn ON the high speed Fans... why? Here in Michigan is cold these season I mean coooold. Is that the reason?

I read on a another thread here that High speed Fans turn ON on car start always. Is that true? Because mines are quiet.

Need help on this

Edited by jose
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...

I read on a another thread here that High speed Fans turn ON on car start always. Is that true? Because mines are quiet.

Need help on this

Jose:

That is not true...unless the coolant temperature is above a certain temperature (215 degrees F) or the A/C is already turned on. Those two factors are what turn on the high speed on the fans.

Take a look at this thread, specifically reading posts #2 and #5 for a more detailed explanation: http://www.renntech....r-fan-question/

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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Thanks Maurice that was the post I was referring from. Should I change the resistor ballast? I already bought the resistor should I try it? How to remove the inner lining? Thanks for your help.

Edited by jose
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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I was able to replace the resistor ballast, that was quite regular easy, but the problem persist. the cooling fan isn't working at all. Durametric hasn't solve any single problem in this case which are $300.00 plus the resistor $110.00 for a total of $410.00 and still nothing work!!. I'm really out of ideas. Need advice :help: . Thanks.

:unsure: :(

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Jose:

Have you tested each of the two fans by applying 12V to them directly from a spare battery?

That would verify that the fan electric motors are okay and that your problem lies elsewhere.

Regards, Maurice.

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I put the 4 new relays and still not working.

Well, I guess that should be the first thing to try before all this mess. :huh:

Passenger side fan is working fine when temp goes 18--0.

Again my question is: Should I hear both fans when switch ON the key? Just before ignition. Yes or No?

Thanks

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