Long Pedal after Flushing Brakes

[mdmasters 0]

OK, I hope this does not result in someone calling me an idiot, but here is what I did:

I just flushed my brake system in preparation for a DE, which I have done many times before. The old fluid was in good shape, and so it was nearly impossible to tell when the new fluid started. This time, using a pressure bleeder, I pushed most of the old fluid out of the reservoir before I started dumping new fluid into the thing so as to minimize the mixing. I may have actually pushed some air into the lines - I'm not sure - but I was not too concerned about that because I figured that the air bubbles, if present, would give me an indication of when I was getting to the new fluid. I then flushed two full 500 liter bottles of Motul RBF 600 through the system starting with the RR outside screw, then RR inside screw, then LR, then RF, then LF. There were some very small bubbles present, but I never did see any significant air bubbles come out of the system before I ran out of new fluid.

I took the car for a drive, and I immediately noticed that the brake pedal travel was longer than it had previously been. Pumping the pedal did not make the pedal travel shorter. I would have expected the pedal to stiffen and the travel to get shorter if there was air in the system, but still, I was concerned that I had introduced air into the system, and that I had not gotten it all out. So I bought two more 500 liter bottles of Motul and I flushed most of that through the system, but I never did get any significant air bubbles to come out (there were a few micro bubbles). The brakes seem to work fine other than the longer pedal.

I'm concerned that I may have introduced air into the system, and that the air may be somehow "stuck" in the ABS pump. I'm not sure if this can happen, especially since the ABS pump did not cycle at any time during the process. Have I screwed up my brake system? Thanks in advance.

Mike

[wvicary 87]

I would guess that air is trapped in the ABS valve block. The master cylinders can fail but have the system properly bleed out first.

[NelsonMX 2]

I would bleed the brakes again, and of course make sure you have enough fluid. I know what it's like to run low during the procedure!! Also, pump the pedal a few times as you do the bleeding. You will need someone to help you when you do this. On several occasions I have had a bit of air trapped in the master cylinder, and this may be your problem. I use a Speedi-Bleed with a two liter container so I don't or shouldn't run out of fluid.....

If you have air in the ABS block, or secondary circuit as it's referred to, you would need the PIWIS tester to bleed it. I don't really think that's your problem though........So try another bleed, pump the pedal several times during the bleed, and remember rear right/rear

left/front right/front left. Bleed the outer bleeder valve first on each caliper....

Let us know how you make out....

Bob

[PAULSPEED 27]

The order of bleeding is a little off. Do both rears and then

both fronts starting on the passenger side.

Paul

[Loren 2,290]

The correct sequence is: rear right / rear left / front right / front left.

[NelsonMX 2]

The correct sequence is: rear right / rear left / front right / front left.

and that is what I wrote....In fact I copied and pasted from the manual.....

Anyway, I hope your brakes are good!!

Bob

[Loren 2,290]

The correct sequence is: rear right / rear left / front right / front left.

and that is what I wrote....In fact I copied and pasted from the manual.....

Anyway, I hope your brakes are good!!

Bob

I know - thank you. I just wanted everyone to be clear after some more vague comments.