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I'm finally in a position to spend a few dollars on some needed car maintenance. I replaced the drivers door window tracks this past weekend, it was much easier than I was prepared for, which was a great relief, but I digress.

My front end is getting a little clunky and so is the back for that matter. I took it to the shop and they put it on the rack and tweaked everything and looked into all of the nooks and cranny. Here's the diagnosis;

1) Motor mounts need replacing and I did look with them and one is real bad cracked and bulging the other is not good, just cracked.

2) Trans. mount, maybe but not sure, will remove the bottom plastic and I said be ready to replace it but not sure.

3) The front control arms bushings are bad and cracked and may be causing a little metal on metal thus the clunking over rough road.

4) I'm just glad it's not the struts, though it might be and we won't know until the control arms are done. (?)

Questions;

1) Has anyone changed their own motor mounts? I'm pretty skilled with this would be a driveway job and it seams tougher than brakes and rotors and the window rails too.

2) I won't even think about doing the control arms myself. Has anyone had this work done for reasons as stated above? Heard of this type of issue? Your results? Your cost? Of course I'm in CA the SF Bay Area which tends to distort $$$.

Thanks,

Gary

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The engine mounts should be simpler than a brake job but you still need some decent mechanical skills: 2 bolts and 1 nut per mount. Basically you need to support the engine properly and do one at a time. I am sure someone will post the official procedure, but here goes:

0. Buy either stock, GT3, or Semi-solid mounts and replacement nut/bolts

1. Properly chock wheels

2. Support and slightly raise engine from proper lift point (see the Orient Express jacking up your car DIY)

3. Remove air box (good time to replace air filter and/or serpentine drive belt)

4. Remove 2 nuts and 1 bolt holding air pump on driver's side, disconnect hose clamp and twist hose off, disconnect electrical connector, remove entire unit

5. Remove single nut from mount from underneath

6. Remove 2 bolts visible from the engine bay

7. replace and tighten to spec using loctite blue or equivalent ( I believe the torque spec for the nut is ~60lb-ft, the side bolts ~18lb-ft)

Nice pic by ninerguru:

PA190016.JPG

Nice pic from OZ951:

ssIMG_5131.jpg

For the control arms, it does take some finesse to work on suspension. I have not replaced them on a 996, but have done it on several other cars. The main thing is to take your time and loctite (blue) all of the nuts/bolts and torque to proper specs. Lastly, get a good alignment.

If you want to tackle either/both yourself, let me know if you need a hand. I am in the SJ area.

Edited by xmac

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Too funny, I will be doing my motor mounts soon as well... along with water pump and maybe coilovers. Seems like we should arrange a local "work on car day" for the bay area. I have not been to one in years. LOL

David

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I like the idea. I have a friend who works at a Porsche Shop that may allow us to set up one of these events at their facility (maybe even use of the lift). Stay tuned...

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I did the motor mounts a few weeks ago, and it was SUPER easy. It took longer to jack the car up correctly than it did to replace the motor mounts.

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I did the motor mounts a few weeks ago, and it was SUPER easy. It took longer to jack the car up correctly than it did to replace the motor mounts.

Did you go stock or upgrade? I have been eyeing the Wevo semi-solids.

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OK, got the shop's approval and it looks like Dec 10th is available for a Work on Your Car Day in San Jose. I will post the details on the Events and News Board under the SF Bay Area section.

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I went with solid (not semi-solid) motor mounts - noticeable difference, but still not too much vibration. I'd probably at least go for the semi-solid upgrade. I too did the install in about 30 minutes. One of the easier mods I've done.

I've also replaced my LCA's. If you are going to replace, you might look at going with split GT3 control arms. They aren't that much more money, but will give you much greater flexibility on your alignment settings. Replacing the control arms isn't for the faint of heart. It's not difficult per se, but it isn't simple either. Sounds like you'll have a support group there (and ready access to a pickle fork!), so good luck.

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Hello. Interesting topic here. Other than leaking fluid are there other symptons of bad engine mounts?

TIA.

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Work on Car Day is posted now - December 10th in Santa Clara, CA

http://www.renntech....-december-10th/

If you put this on the community calendar and check the box for "Request RSVP" then you can get an idea of how many folks are coming.

Once you enter the event on the calendar you can provide a link to it for folks to respond.

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Work on Car Day is posted now - December 10th in Santa Clara, CA

http://www.renntech....-december-10th/

If you put this on the community calendar and check the box for "Request RSVP" then you can get an idea of how many folks are coming.

Once you enter the event on the calendar you can provide a link to it for folks to respond.

Thanks for the tip. Calendar event posted and link will be added once approved.

Edited by xmac

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Work on Car Day is posted now - December 10th in Santa Clara, CA

http://www.renntech....-december-10th/

If you put this on the community calendar and check the box for "Request RSVP" then you can get an idea of how many folks are coming.

Once you enter the event on the calendar you can provide a link to it for folks to respond.

Thanks for the tip. Calendar event posted and link will be added once approved.

Done.

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