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By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
By Kevin Bryck
Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor.
If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures.
First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these.
This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers.
It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out.
Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
I just bought myself my first Porsche, a 1998 Boxster. I have an issue with the soft top that I'd like to get some guidance on.
The top goes down smoothly with no issues. It also comes up smoothly until it is nearly all the way up. Just before the dashboard Top light goes out, there is a pretty sharp metallic twang or snap. It did this when I was looking at the car before purchase, and it did it again this evening when I put the top up after driving the car home. I'm assuming it's getting caught on something but I wonder if anyone might have suggestions on what to look at given the late point in the cycle where it occurs?
The convertible top on my '99 Boxster has been acting up for the past few years. Sometimes worked fine and other times wouldn't work at all. I had it looked at by my local shop and by my local Porsche service center. My local shop replaced the switch in the convertible top latch housing (a few years ago) and then the emergency break switch (a couple years ago). This didn't solve the problem. Then a couple of weeks ago the Porsche service center again replaced the emergency break switch, again not solving the problem. Over the past week or so the top had completely stopped working, but then this morning it was working again (intermittently). The tech at Porsche said that everything has been checked (relay, switches, etc.) so he suggests replacing the convertible top motor for approximately $2500. I'd appreciate insights from anyone that has been through this. I see quite a few posts re malfunctioning tops so any info will be helpful.
By Andre Kristian
Hi guys, Newbie to the forum here. I have a 2002 996 C2 Cab new to me and been enjoying it since I got it 2 years ago. Mostly trouble free until two weeks ago when the cab top started to acting up and then quit all together. I had to do the emergency manual procedure, after checking all the obvious stuff (i.e. fuses, relays, micro-switches all tested and works). I started taking the mechanism apart, checked, cleaned and lubed everything, put it back together, run the calibration (Durametric), things start to work again wonderfully (or so I thought). The clam-shell lid started to hesitating and eventually got stuck halfway. I had to do the manual emergency operation again. Durametric gave a timeout error, the problem seems to be the clam-shell lid. Removed the motor and turned the mechanism manually it moves smoothly. Removed the lid motor by connecting it directly to the AC battery it's humming but the gear seems to turn hesitantly. So I took the motor apart and I found out that the plastic gear got chewed on one area (see attached pictures) where the worm gear rotating. I tried to rebuild the gear teeth by using JB Weld (and all kinds of epoxies brands and types), it's always working for a while and then same thing at the same area got chewed again. I guess it's not strong enough to hold the metal turning screw. My question now is, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor or do you guys have any recommendation if I can get this gear fix or custom made obviously within reasonable price (scratch that I just check with a CNC machine company it will cost roughly $300-$400). The price of a new motor is around 600 dollars at Sunset Porsche, a used one at eBay maybe around 300 - 400 dollars with the whole mechanism (which I don't need). Any suggestion is appreciate it. -Andre