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Writing from Afghanistan while wife is stranded in my 996!


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I just began my tour in Afghanistan 3 days ago and my wife drove my car to work for the day...

When she came back after the car had been sitting for 12 hours, she went to start the car and it "leaped" forward. (It was in 1st gear) The car did the same thing when it was in reverse except it "leaped" backwards. She had the clutch pressed all the way to the ground. She then tried to put it in neutral, and the car started and idled perfectly.

She is unable to put the car in gear when the car is running.

Any suggestions?

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I just began my tour in Afghanistan 3 days ago and my wife drove my car to work for the day...

When she came back after the car had been sitting for 12 hours, she went to start the car and it "leaped" forward. (It was in 1st gear) The car did the same thing when it was in reverse except it "leaped" backwards. She had the clutch pressed all the way to the ground. She then tried to put it in neutral, and the car started and idled perfectly.

She is unable to put the car in gear when the car is running.

Any suggestions?

First check to make sure that the floor mat has not slipped forward to the point where it does not allow the clutch pedal to be fully depressed.

Then check the brake fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir in the front trunk. If it's too low, you will not get the proper action when depressing the clutch pedal.

Also check for any traces of brake fluid under the car, especially under the clutch slave cylinder location.

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanks for the updates! The Wife is suprisingly car savy and does quite well driving a manual. She called up one of my buddies and he came out and had the same issues. I will double check with her that the brake fluid resevoir is full and that there is no fluid under the front trunk!

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Well, I do have an update…

The brake reservoir is between min and max (the brake fluid is the same system as the clutch fluid)

The clutch still feels stiff… it does not fall toward the floor.

With these new bits of info, do you think that the problem could still be a clutch master or slave cylinder, or do you think it is something else?

How do you test to see if the clutch master or slave cylinder is bad?

There was a cold snap (35F in Northern Florida), and this is the first time the car has been out in the cold weather for any legnth of time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

I had a good buddy drive my car home by starting it in 1st gear and then slipping it into 2nd gear while driving. (It was a short drive) The wrecker could not get my lowered car on the flat bed.

It has been 10 days or so, and the wife says that there is not a drop of any fluid under the car and the resevoir is still full.

I am leaning toward a new pressure plate or fork when I get home.

Just to make sure I order all the right parts, is this what I need for the job:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-Clutch (997-116-013-13-M38 ($284.00))

-Pressure Plate (996-116-027-06-M38 ($334.75))

-Release Lever (AKA Clutch Fork (New modified one) (996-116-712-04 ($31.25))

-Throw Out Bearing (AKA Pilot Bearing, Release Bearing) (996-116-080-04-M38 ($95.75))

-Clutch Guide Tube (996-116-087-01-M100 ($48.25)) (is this replaced every time?)

-Cluth Alignment Took (PEL-TOL-T136 ($8.85))

Technical Serice Bulletin on Clutch Noise

http://www.pelicanpa...s/Grp3-7-00.pdf

996 116 716 02 Ball journal ($44.75)

996 116 741 00 Retaining spring (clip) ($12.00)

996 116 743 00 Sealing ring ($3.00)

000 043 205 10 Optimol MPO (enough to many vehicles) ($45.00) (can you use something else… that is kind of pricy?)

000 043 024 00 Olista Longtime 3EP (enough to do many vehicles) ($21.75)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The IMS and RMS were replaced at 50,000 mi... the car now has 63,000 mi. The clutch was not replaced at that time.

-Fly Wheel Seal (Does this need replaced with a standard clutch job if you to not take off the fly wheel?)

I do not have any issues with the AOS. Is this something I should replace anyway?

I do not have any issues with the coolant tank… is this something that should be replaced anyway?

This seems to be a good link on how to get the job done!

http://www.pelicanpa...RANS-Clutch.htm

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Before dropping a big parts order, I would check to make sure the gear selector wires have not fallen off the gear box.

You mentioned a couple things...

"slipping it into 2nd gear" and "unable to put the car in gear".

Sometimes these can fall off causing unexplained shifting behavior. They can be tie wrapped to ensure they don't fall off again.

Check out this thread regarding that problem: http://forums.rennli...alfunction.html

That being said, if all of that looks fine and the slave cylinder is in working order (bled/no leaks) then perhaps it is time to drop the tranny.

Generally you can find a clutch kit on ebay for less than $500 which includes the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and lube.

Yes, if it hasn't been done before, it is good to do the AOS since it costs $100 and is easier to do when the transmission is out. The rear main seal (flywheel seal) can be done, but it does require a custom tool to install a new one properly. You can make your own tool. Generally speaking though if the RMS is not leaking then I wouldn't touch it, and it is not required to replace if you do not remove the flywheel. If you remove the flywheel the flywheel bolts must be replaced.

The coolant tank can be done without removing the transmission, it has to go out through the top.

Edited by logray
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  • 3 months later...

Well, it is all done. It has been 5 months and I just got home and fixed the car. The wife only drove it once while i was gone and I came home to a bad clutch, dead battery, and a nail I'm the rear tire. It is going in storage next time.

The clutch issue ended up being the pressure plate welded to the clutch disk. I can not get them apart no matter what I do. I broke multiple screwdrivers prying them apart and even hit it with a 10 lb sledge hammer! The clutch was an after market clutch and had about 30k on it.

If anyone has any questions on how to do the clutch while being jacked up in the garage, I can help. Bleeding the clutch with the peddle was not to bad either! No spungieness!

Thanks for all the help.

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