Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Jactwist

Coolant discharge from top of expansion tank

Recommended Posts

1999 Boxster S Tiptronic 57K miles.

Spent good part of the afternoon trying to get to the bottom of coolant loss from the expansion tank. Wife went to use the car yesterday and the red light started flashing, checked the expansion tank - empty. Took about 3 litres to refill.

Today I went through a 'bleed' procedure. Pulled up a spring loaded clip on top of tank, slowly filled tank, remove a fuse B1 to effect some sort of valve - apparently only needed for tiptronic system bleeds, run engine up to 90 - used cooking thermometer into expansion tank, reving engine every few minuets. There was a visible flow. The tank spilled over when it hit about 90(when the stat opened?) then settled down fine.This process took about 40mins.

Reset spring clip, refitted fuse(which stopped the instruments working whilst removed), closed tank lid and took car for a spin.

After about 6 miles steady driving pulled over and checked tank level - all good. Did another 6 miles with a blast up to about 6K revs in 3rd. Got back home and pulled over. all good. Ticked over for a few mins fine. Did one more lap of the block and pulled over; a large gush of water came out of the top of the tank -about 2.5Ltrs on to the road.

Back to square one.

Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You did not get all the air out of the system, which is what caused the "dump". The preferred method of refilling these systems is under vacuum, which only takes a couple of min. and totally eliminates any issues. If you do not have access to a vacuum fill system, do a search for the "burping" proceedure (it ihas been posted several times on multiple sites) and re-purge the system. It takes a while, but eventually gets the job done................

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 to above comment.

Also, it is safe to leave the bleeder valve locked up for a few days while driving around.

You probably lost coolant when you had it up to temp with the cap removed, or somehow introduced air into the system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Zacatecaluca
      Hello All,
      The car has been awesome 2006 987.1 30k miles. The other day i took it for a drive and stopped after about 150 miles for about 30miins when I came out, all my coolant was on the floor. I refilled the coolant and constantly checked the temperature, initially it edged up to 180F but then settled back down to 175F and stayed that way all the way home. I was driving gently and kept cheeking the coolant level. Since then I found that I needed to open the coolant needle valve and drive around for 3 or 4 days to bleed the cooling system. I'm on day 2 and the coolant level has gone down slightly. Whenever I stop I check the floor and there has been no coolant leak.
      I am baffled, anyone seen this before?
      Thanks.
    • By Philip Adler
      Well I was driving yesterday when the coolant light began to flash, temp hit 200, so I went home and filled the coolant, which was really low. When looking through the fill, there wasn't any coolant all the way down. I put in about 3 quarts [ capacity 2.5 gal.] which was a lot of loss. But There wasn't any leaking. [?] The level stayed steady at the 1/2 min-max mark.
       
      Driving today, about 10 miles back and forth, not only did the light come on but the temperature shot up. I pulled into the driveway just as it hit 250. 
      No check engine light, no other diagnostic light, just the flashing coolant light.
      [meter/check codes?]
       
      When I got out of the car, I could hear a loud whine from the trunk. 
      Opened it to find that the coolant cap was venting hot coolant steam, and of course the loud and unnerving hissing-whine, from the cap.
      After a few moments it stopped. Waited till it all cooled down and slowly and carefully removed the cap. Same issue as above.
      No visible coolant in fill. I again put about 2 quarts, level hit between min-max.
      No leaks under car, coolant level hold steady.
       
      The mix is  1 gal. Porsche coolant [bought though Pelican], and 1 gal. distilled water.
      Shaken, not stirred to mix. Let sit. Yes, nice and pink when poured.
      The coolant tank is brand new, perhaps has a thousand miles on it. Cap came with the tank. Porsche, not OEM. Put on by a reputable shop which specializes in German cars. I screwed that cap down properly, real tight.
       
      No overflow. No leaks.  I'm loosing coolant when driving, only.
      Any ideas?
       
      Obviously I can't drive it. Next steps is to load it on a flatbed, and drop it off at the shop.
      {Poor Boxie} ?
       
      Thanks, as always!
       
    • By sprocket
      My 2011 Cayenne S has possible sunroof drain leaks.  I wanna remove the headliner and address the tubes.  Any instructions on taking down the headliner?  FYI,  I have cleaned out the drains in the wheel arches.  Also drained the water in the frame under the sills.  No more sloshing sound.
       
      Thanks.
       
      Roch
    • By ttocs
      Late 2004 Boxster Base Tiptronic with 45,000 miles
      I have racked up 15,000 miles over the last 3 years of ownership. The coolant was flushed about a year prior to purchase. I think it's time to flush the coolant. I plan to buy the Airlift tool - it's a time vs cost issue, time wins.
       
      I know from searching that JFP has recommended to others to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance on a car this age. Fair enough. Porsche pump, clean the mating surfaces carefully and:
      1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant?
       
      2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it?
       
      I'll replace the thermostat at the same time.
      3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat?
      3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit?
       
      4. Which hoses should be replaced?
       
      5. Anything else?
       
      Since the start of ownership I've done mostly preventative and general maintenance with very few actual failures of any kind. With that being said, I think mileage is beginning to expose some common failures cropping up like what happened yesterday - the turn signal stalk won't hold in-place, so now I need to replace it but at least getting the 4-stalk version will give me the OBC functions.
       
    • By ShadetreeMech
      Turbo/Turbo S (maybe even GTS) thermostats are not the typical looking reverse poppet design I've come to know an love (hate?) over the years. The "standard" design is pretty obvious - a hole opens up in the middle against the flow of water. 
       
      On the Turbo/Turbo S it seems to be a balanced sleeve (am I correct?), which allows pressurized coolant to circulate around all of its moving parts. Sounds great, but I don't understand how it restricts the flow. Upon 1st impression it would seem to me coolant can pass right through it unrestricted, regardless of the position of the internals. I do realize the water pump sits in front of the thermostat and that the inlet(s) coming from the engine and the outlet tubes exit out just over the water pump both are both behind the thermostat. This must have something to do with it but in my mind, having both inlet and the outlet on the other side of the thermostat means the water pump isn't doing anything but churning coolant. See diagram on page 89 of this parts diagram: https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_9PA1_KATALOG.pdf
       
      Does somebody know how this all works? Your knowledge is appreciated!
       
        
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.