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vacuum line replacement on 2001 Boxster S


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Every time I dive into the engine bay I am greeted by that sickening snap sound of one those tiny (maybe 1.5mm ID) vacuum lines or the 3 or 4 way fittings cracking. Well, maybe not EVERY time, but often enough that I'd like to replace them all with nice traditional 3/8" rubber vacuum hose. Can anyone think of a reason this would be a bad idea?

Thanks

-michael

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Nope sounds like a great idea. My boxster is in pretty good condition in the vac line department . But when they do get bad I plan on just replacing them all at one time. I just did this on our old 1994 Isuzu rodeo with 230,000 miles. All of the vac lines were old and hard. It was pretty easy you just take them off one by one and cut a piece the same length . More time consuming than anything. Now the suv runs great. I say go for it. And good luck

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It's easier said than done. On the 2001 S the vacuum originates at a check-valve on one of the four rubber junctions downstream of the throttle body. From there it ends up at 3 change over valves and the vacuum tank. One of these change over valves lives under the passenger side intake manifold which I'm in the process of removing, the other two were easily accessible.

Thanks for the tip RFM, I'd already figured this out but having it written down is good for anyone who might stumble upon this thread in the future.

Fortunately driving this baby is enough fun that dealing with the confined space work is well worth it.

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  • 2 years later...

I know this is an old thread but thought somebody might get some use out of what I went through. I have been fighting CEL on my 2002 Boxster S now for close to a year. I started with the typical MAF or leak before the throttle body. It turned out to be some hoses unplugged and some going the wrong place. Now I have the P0410 and P1411 codes coming up. I found a good deal on used Vacuum Reservoir, AI pump valve and Vacuum solenoid valve all together (with less miles than I have) and for the price thought I'd try them. I had the same reservations about how to get at them and after some looking at the mess found that I could get at them easily, without removing the passenger intake, by removing the alternator and going in through there. Made the job much easier. I think now I've still got either a vacuum problem or the AI pump valve is still bad, but for $15 it was worth the try. Now I'll just bite the bullet and buy a new one. My pump still seems to be working since on cold start I can hear the annoying but sweet shrill sound from the pump

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I know this is an old thread but thought somebody might get some use out of what I went through. I have been fighting CEL on my 2002 Boxster S now for close to a year. I started with the typical MAF or leak before the throttle body. It turned out to be some hoses unplugged and some going the wrong place. Now I have the P0410 and P1411 codes coming up. I found a good deal on used Vacuum Reservoir, AI pump valve and Vacuum solenoid valve all together (with less miles than I have) and for the price thought I'd try them. I had the same reservations about how to get at them and after some looking at the mess found that I could get at them easily, without removing the passenger intake, by removing the alternator and going in through there. Made the job much easier. I think now I've still got either a vacuum problem or the AI pump valve is still bad, but for $15 it was worth the try. Now I'll just bite the bullet and buy a new one. My pump still seems to be working since on cold start I can hear the annoying but sweet shrill sound from the pump

For your P0410 and P1411 error codes you might consider dropping your Headers/Catalytic Converters and inspecting the air injection ports. See my experience in the following thread on 986forum:

 

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/49666-p0410-secondary-air-injection-system-cylinders-1-%96-3-a.html

 

It would help if you had a Durametric system to help troubleshoot the problem.

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