Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

this is regarding the 4 zone ac on my car.

here is what i have observed so far:

When i start he car and turn on ac, the driver side (front and rear) feel nice and cold, but the passenger side (front and rear) feel much warmer.

It appears to me that something is not right and wanted to see if someone can help troubleshoot. the heat is not far away here in TX and i would like it resolved before then.

Where do i start, whac can be suspect, etc. looking forward to having this resolved.

Greatly aopreciate any help.

Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

OK. The Durametric cable came in today.

Here is what I see (these are the only codes I see in any section at all):


Part Number 11

Diagnosis Number 11

Current Fault Codes:

353 - Feedback from blower regulator front - Value below lower limit value

2600 - Temperature flap servo motor rear right

How much does this narrow down my search?

Would this explain the behavior I described above?

Much appreciate help with this. Thank you.

Link to post
Share on other sites

353 is common and can be triggered from something as simple as low battery voltage. You need to investigate code 2600 but the first course of action is to clear all codes and address any that return. A low or failing battery can cause endless odd electrical problems on CAN-BUS equipped vehicles so be sure the battery/charging system is up to par.

Link to post
Share on other sites

To make sure the battery charging system is up to par - does this vehicle have 2 batteries? I thought it did. If so, do both have to be checked?

I assume it would entail to verify batteries are fully charged to begin with? Like do a full charge on battery and then load test it to see if voltage drops below min levels (which would indicate weak battery).

Any other ideas? Test the alternator? How (is there a tool that will test it while in the car - I cant imagine having to take it out to test)?

Thanks again.

353 is common and can be triggered from something as simple as low battery voltage. You need to investigate code 2600 but the first course of action is to clear all codes and address any that return. A low or failing battery can cause endless odd electrical problems on CAN-BUS equipped vehicles so be sure the battery/charging system is up to par.

Edited by ciaka
Link to post
Share on other sites

OK. Got more info.

I reset the fault codes on Air Conditioner.

The only code that returned was code 2600 Temperature flap servomotor rear right.

Also, I measured the temps out of the 4 main outlets:

Ambient outside temp: 72F

AC condition: Set to Mono, LO, automatic (full blast), air recirculation, all windows closed and all doors closed.

Measured temp of air coming out of the two front center vents, and out of the two rear center vents:

FT LT - 51F

FT RT - 71F

RR LT - 55F

RR RT - 71F

So looks to me that the right side of the car is blowing air much warmer than teh left side. If anyone can hep trboubleshoot for root cause, I would greatly appreciate it.

Edited by ciaka
Link to post
Share on other sites

I set the temp on control panel to LO (in mono mode - all sides synced to same control temp as driver front).

Outside temp was 72F (as displayed inside car). Measured with my garage thermometer I took off the wall - it is about 4 inches long, I placed the mercury indicator right in front of each vent and held it there for about 3 minutes for each vent.

Car doors were closed, windows closed, car turned on idling.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Philip54
      The A/C compressor has seized  and the compressor clutch appears to be disengaged, but sometimes I hear noise coming from the engine compartment and the engine does not run smoothly.  If I stop, turn the engine off and re-start the engine, everything goes back to normal.  This has occurred 3 times in about 100 miles.  Any ideas on what is happening?
    • By Philip54
      When I turn on the air conditioning, everything seems normal, the compressor appears to be working and the fan goes on, but only warm air comes out of the vents.
      Where should I start to figure out what is wrong? I have Durametric , if that can help.
    • By royp4
      Hi all. Was driving my 2003 996 cab 2 days ago. I heard a strange noise from the rear and pulled over. I smelled a burning type odor and a small amount of white smoke was coming from the trunk vents. Since that time the a/c is not producing cold air. Fan still produces plenty of air, but it isn't cold. Am I looking at a blown compressor here, or are there other possibilities? It gets rather warm in South Carolina, and sometimes rather than dropping the top I use the a/c. Any input from any of you would be greatly appreciated.
      Thank you in advance,
    • By Zacatecaluca
      Hello All,
      The car has been awesome 2006 987.1 30k miles. The other day i took it for a drive and stopped after about 150 miles for about 30miins when I came out, all my coolant was on the floor. I refilled the coolant and constantly checked the temperature, initially it edged up to 180F but then settled back down to 175F and stayed that way all the way home. I was driving gently and kept cheeking the coolant level. Since then I found that I needed to open the coolant needle valve and drive around for 3 or 4 days to bleed the cooling system. I'm on day 2 and the coolant level has gone down slightly. Whenever I stop I check the floor and there has been no coolant leak.
      I am baffled, anyone seen this before?
    • By yeeha68
      Hello All,
      My A/C has been getting warmer over the last week to the point of just warm air.  The compressor is engaging as I can see, hear, and watch the tach drop slightly as it does.  I figured it just needed a quick recharge, but the low side pressure is ridiculously high at 90psi.   Before I go and pull the world apart does anyone have experience with this scenario?  Does this point to a bad compressor or Refrigerant Control Valve?  I'm not really finding anything in the search dialog.
      I have a vacuum and used it on other cars, but have never seen this "overcharge" high pressure issue.  I guess I'll try to lower the pressure first, but I have my doubts it will fix anything.
      Thanks in advance for any input.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.