Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
The car has been awesome 2006 987.1 30k miles. The other day i took it for a drive and stopped after about 150 miles for about 30miins when I came out, all my coolant was on the floor. I refilled the coolant and constantly checked the temperature, initially it edged up to 180F but then settled back down to 175F and stayed that way all the way home. I was driving gently and kept cheeking the coolant level. Since then I found that I needed to open the coolant needle valve and drive around for 3 or 4 days to bleed the cooling system. I'm on day 2 and the coolant level has gone down slightly. Whenever I stop I check the floor and there has been no coolant leak.
I am baffled, anyone seen this before?
By Charles Bradley
Today while sitting in traffic I heard a slight pop on the passenger side and saw smoke/steam fly out from the passenger side at the windshield. Temperatures climbed slightly over the next 10 minutes but came back to normal as I made my way home. Upon immediate inspection, I see nothing obvious except some coolant on the ground coming from behind the passenger front wheel, and the fill cap there at the windshield junction was a little wet. There was also a little on a bolt directly down from the torque arm.
I do not know the routing of the lines or what to look for once I get this all off, if I can even see where the leak is coming from. Can someone explain the coolant line routing in that area and suspected fail points?
Turbo/Turbo S (maybe even GTS) thermostats are not the typical looking reverse poppet design I've come to know an love (hate?) over the years. The "standard" design is pretty obvious - a hole opens up in the middle against the flow of water.
On the Turbo/Turbo S it seems to be a balanced sleeve (am I correct?), which allows pressurized coolant to circulate around all of its moving parts. Sounds great, but I don't understand how it restricts the flow. Upon 1st impression it would seem to me coolant can pass right through it unrestricted, regardless of the position of the internals. I do realize the water pump sits in front of the thermostat and that the inlet(s) coming from the engine and the outlet tubes exit out just over the water pump both are both behind the thermostat. This must have something to do with it but in my mind, having both inlet and the outlet on the other side of the thermostat means the water pump isn't doing anything but churning coolant. See diagram on page 89 of this parts diagram: https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_9PA1_KATALOG.pdf
Does somebody know how this all works? Your knowledge is appreciated!
I just resolved a window issue on my 2007 Porsche Cayman and wanted to post and help out anyone with a similar issue. My passenger side window was functioning normally except for when I closed my door the automatic window drop to clear the door seal was not returning to the complete up position and was staying down. The automatic up feature on the window was also not working. The auto-down feature worked and all other functions of the window performed normally.
So to be clear, when you pulled the exterior and interior door handles the widow dropped the 10mm or 1/4 inch it should. However, upon shutting the doot the window would stay down in this position and not return up. So....
I decided to do some research and came across the "latch micro switch issue".. I figured hey part isn't that expense so I replace the latch and the issue remained. After much more research, I came across a post about that issue being caused from a faulty door motor ECU. This IS the reason for the issue. After, disconnecting the battery, taking off the door panel using numerous videos and instructions from this site and others I was able to quickly replace the motor unit with a new one that I got on ebay for $120. The motor is easy to remove, 3 screws and then just pull the motor straight out and it will disconnect from the window regulator. Next, pop in the new one and you are good to go. Finally, the issue was resolved upon reconnecting the car battery and the motor auto cycled up and down and is now functioning normally. I wanted to post this as I am hoping someone else who does a google search for a similar issue will find this and save them hundreds if not a thousand dollars from taking the car to a Porsche dealer. The part number for the motor that I used to replace the current window motor was 997.624.182.06 replacing the original part that was 997.624.182.03
2002 Porsche 911 Carrera
Manual 6 speed
So my friend and I started to the process of changing the IMS to the Solution and noticed while we were removing the second from the top left bolt of the transmission (facing the rear of the car) that there was a lot of corrosion. The bolt was very difficult to get out and actually took some of the threads with it. Once we removed the tranny we saw inside the housing of the tranny and the crank crystallized particles. It was also around the bolt that was tough to get out. After a closer look it appeared that the oil cooler had leaked antifreeze at some point which over time, seeped around the tranny/crank housing (did not enter the tranny though). It (the flakes) also was near where the cooler mount to the crank. This led us to belive that possibly the oil cooler is bad or going bad or possibly the oil cooler o-rings. Any ideas or comments? This is where I plan on getting the replacement parts. I can post some pics even if it would help.