Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

My top quit on me so I got a whole lot of info from you guys and found my hydraulic tank was below MIN

I followed the advice of this forum and added fluid to my top (it was below MIN). The cylinders now work well, but I think either the sync is off or I screwed something up messing with it before I finally checked the fluid. So here's what going on:

1) I start by mechanically opening up the 'hook latch' on the front of the top (top is in the half way closed position).

2) I continue to close it....it closes and latches. And then there is the back lid motor running but does NOT close the back lid...it times out

3) I push the open switch, it unlatches, top goes all the way down, side flaps fold up......motor starts for lid closure, but doesn't move....times out

4) I open top, side flaps open, top starts closing.....goes a foot from the windshield and stops (as does the hydraulic motor).

5) I notice that the 'hook' has not opened to receive the slot.

6) I manually open the 'hook', hit the switch and it closes and latches......but again, there is no closure of the rear cover. I do notice that the lever for the back cover (connected by the flexible shaft to the rear hook that draws the cover down) is not moving.....and therefore not hitting the microswitch).

Is this a timing issue? Can the PST2 unit fix this.....or are there many more variables? Thing is, it was working fine and then one day it just 'stopped'....only 2 clicks...no motors

Thanks guys

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in the middle of dealing with an issue like this right now. For me, the reason the microswitch for the rear "hook" cable was not engaging was because the gear that drives it is shared with the left side clamshell cover hinge drive cable. The cable was binding, along with the drive mechanism slider for the left side hinge. I'm still not sure of the root cause, but ultimately, the left side cable is damaged internally, and the slider is out of alignment.

Haven't fixed it yet, but I'm working on it. PM me if you want some more ideas to check. I have some pictures to share and write up once I finally fix it. Warning: the parts aren't cheap.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello, first time to post here.

Just had the same issue on a 99 C2. The rear top lid would not operate, up or down, but the actual top works fine. I could operate the lid manually, but that was it. The cable for the rear hook was also not moving under manual operation or under power, but I could hear the motor running. Same sort of thing, timing out.

So I removed the motor and took it apart, the gears are not binding and are rotating under power, but the square driver is not turning or engaging. My first thought was that the top control module may by not be working properly, engaging the driver. I acquired another module, still no engagement or lid movement. I did get the module from ebay, so it could also be bad. I'll have to test it to be sure.

During manual operation, the rear cable/hook doesn't move, to engage the microswitch. So I took that apart and found the bottom ear on the slide that connects to the rear cable was broken off. This slide rides on the gear that operates the left side cable, with the ear fitting into the slot on the gear. I will try to weld this ear back on to make that repair, but the issue is still the motor not engaging to move the top, and that the rear cable doesn't move under manual operation.

Still trouble shooting, I'm sure it's something pretty basic, just need to eliminate a few things first. I'll locate another control module and see if that works. I think the control module is not talking to the motor, telling it to engage, or that part of the motor is not operating properly.

More to follow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't weld that piece on. I believe it is meant to be a separate piece. It slides up and down while the rack and pinion system moves.

Post some pictures, so I can be sure we are talking about the same thing.

Here's some troubleshooting advice:

Remove the rear lid by removing 4 bolts on the underside of the lid (using a 10mm socket) and unclipping the rear brakelight wire. Set the lid aside. Then, with the gearbox motor apart, you can actuate the hinge and hook on each side by pushing/pulling the cable that attaches to the rack gear. By doing this, you can check for binding in the right and left side cable and hinge mechanism.

For me, the left side was binding, causing damage to the cable and hinge. I ended up buying a whole new assembly. Depending on what's wrong with yours, I might have parts you can use.

Edited by frisbee91

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been dealing with multiple top issues after I took it in to have the material replaced and converted to a glass window. The shop that did the work broke the left arm bracket behind the quarter panel. After I replaced it, I was having a problem with the clamshell going down all the way and noticed the hinge arms were broken so i replaced both. Now I've found that the latch lock is not engaging. After taking apart the gear assembly, the ear that slides into the left cable to open the latch is broken off probably the same as yours. Mine will open if I manually lock the latch but will not close and lock so it doesnt hit micro switch and it keeps the light on.

Frisbee, do you have the lock cable slider piece? My right cable has also been previously repair by someone with 10 zip ties. I wouldn't mind changing that as well

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Toyguy
      I just bought myself my first Porsche, a 1998 Boxster.  I have an issue with the soft top that I'd like to get some guidance on.
       
      The top goes down smoothly with no issues.  It also comes up smoothly until it is nearly all the way up.  Just before the dashboard Top light goes out, there is a pretty sharp metallic twang or snap.  It did this when I was looking at the car before purchase, and it did it again this evening when I put the top up after driving the car home.  I'm assuming it's getting caught on something but I wonder if anyone might have suggestions on what to look at given the late point in the cycle where it occurs?
       
      Thanks!
      Dave
    • By crwarren11
      Hi all,
      After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue.  After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable.  However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image).  Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic.  The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission.  Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions.  Thank you!
       

    • By OscarAH1W
      I am completely flummoxed by this noise I am getting in my 2004 Turbo Cab.  A couple nights ago while driving home with the top down, I noticed a rattle different from the normal sound of the motor and not accelerating/decelerating with changes in engine RPM.  It occurred at 1800-2000 rpm and was most noticeable when decelerating in 2nd gear in my neighborhood at slow speeds (~20MPH)...  with a helper on the throttle and the engine compartment open, it sounds like it is coming from the right side-top of the engine, around the Hydraulic reservoir.  Putting a spanner/wrench on the component and up to the temple seems to have confirmed this as the source.  I checked my manual and the Pentosin level (mid range on the HOT side of the dipstick at operating temp)  I realize that Porsche recommends checking at 20C but I live in Texas now and that won't happen until November.  Just out of curiosity I looked at the clutch reservoir up front and after removing the gooey trim cover, found it leaking (Seeping) from the recently replaced cap and appearing to be overfilled.  The car has never really been operated in the 8 years I have had it in particularly high average temperatures, so I am hoping that the front is thermal expansion.  Any thoughts on this matter are greatly appreciated... Loren?  What Say You??
       
      Thanks in advance,
       
    • By Dennis Bergman
      does anyone have a wiring diagram for the convertible top? 987.2 boxster. ive narrowed the issue down to (pretty sure) being between the relays tray and actual switch in the center console. ive gone as far as cut the green wire that goes to the top motor under clam shell and put 12v to it, it started to work. ive checked the relays and swapped them aswell and still nothing. ive tested the switch in the center and the green and brown wire switch while pulling the switch up from positive to negative like it should. which make me think its somewhere in between the switch and the relay tray. in process of tearing apart middle console, i add power from right before the relays directly to the wire and it works fine just doesnt seem to get the connection when the switch is triggered.
    • By Andre Kristian
      Hi guys,   Newbie to the forum here.   I have a 2002 996 C2 Cab new to me and been enjoying it since I got it 2 years ago. Mostly trouble free until two weeks ago when the cab top started to acting up and then quit all together. I had to do the emergency manual procedure, after checking all the obvious stuff (i.e. fuses, relays, micro-switches all tested and works). I started taking the mechanism apart, checked, cleaned and lubed everything, put it back together, run the calibration (Durametric), things start to work again wonderfully (or so I thought). The clam-shell lid started to hesitating and eventually got stuck halfway. I had to do the manual emergency operation again.   Durametric gave a timeout error, the problem seems to be the clam-shell lid. Removed the motor and turned the mechanism manually it moves smoothly. Removed the lid motor by connecting it directly to the AC battery it's humming but the gear seems to turn hesitantly. So I took the motor apart and I found out that the plastic gear got chewed on one area (see attached pictures) where the worm gear rotating. I tried to rebuild the gear teeth by using JB Weld (and all kinds of epoxies brands and types), it's always working for a while and then same thing at the same area got chewed again. I guess it's not strong enough to hold the metal turning screw.   My question now is, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor or do you guys have any recommendation if I can get this gear fix or custom made obviously within reasonable price (scratch that I just check with a CNC machine company it will cost roughly $300-$400). The price of a new motor is around 600 dollars at Sunset Porsche, a used one at eBay maybe around 300 - 400 dollars with the whole mechanism (which I don't need).   Any suggestion is appreciate it.   -Andre

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.