Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

I plan on using the Motive to bleed my brakes this weekend and after searching the forum and maintenance manuals I cannot find an exact value to torque the bleeder valve. I have seen reference to 7.5 lbs-ft and 9 lbs-ft. I assume this is an ok range (staying on the low side, assuimng no leaks). I am a little sensitive to this since I had a 1 year service done at a dealer a while back and the left front outer bleed valve came back with a slightly rounded head, as if the tech over-tightened it and the wrench slipped off.

Any comments about the torque range or the exact value if you know it? Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

As your topic appears to be a DIY question (rather than a DIY Tutorial), we have moved it to the appropriate forum.

This is an automatically generated reply.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bleeder screw on brake caliper (M10 x 1) 8 - 12 Nm (6.0 - 9.0 ftlb)

Most torque wrenches are not very accurate at those low settings and many are not spec'd below 30 ftlb.

Not much torque - I usually just tighten until they do not leak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 on Loren's comments. When you encounter low torque values (like the oil cooler fasteners at 7 ft. lb.), you should be using an inch pound torque wrewnch instead of a foot pount unit.

Edited by JFP in PA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. I have an in-lb torque wrench but will take the advice about sufficient to torque not leak as best common sense answer (I'll see what my torque wrench says at that point for grins).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have "the touch", just do it by feel like Loren says, it will be fine, just check for leaks afterwards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also apply a very small amount of anti-seize to the threads to prevent the valve seizing and tighten them by hand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Hayestack
      Ive just had a dyno test on my Boxster S, 2000 model, 158 000km, RHD, daily driver.
      I have a 'dip' in the graph readings for both power and torque between 5 800 - 6 300 r/min - see attached.
      Any thoughts as to what this could be caused by?
      No misfires or any other symptoms. Scanner shows no fault codes.
      Im satisfied with the results, bar the 'dip', as the flywheel HP is usually about 12% more than is achieved at the wheels.
      Boxster HP graph.pdf
    • By andrewjt19
      Hello everyone,
                Does anyone have or know where I may have the bolt torque specs for a 2008 Cayenne Turbo? I need pretty much the specifications for all the bolts and nuts that would be included in a block replacement. I'm getting the back rebuilt by 928 Motorsports and reinstalling with an experienced friend. However, it's nearly impossible to find the specs for these motors. Additionally, if there's a place where I could find a complete 957 workshop manual, could someone please advise? Thank you.
    • By Adam D'Agosto
      Hello all!
      I'm new to the forum so please forgive me if I am posting this question in the wrong place.
       
      I have a general question about torque tolerance. For the moment, I'm not speaking of any particular bolt or nut or whatever you're torquing . But I imagine all car specifications for torque values should have (or even publish) the allowable tolerance or acceptable range the torque can be set to and it will be effective and safe. As an example, on the car I have, 1997 Boxster, the oil drain plug is stated at 39 ft./lbs. Great! That's probably the nominal value (middle of the range), but what is the range?
       
      Digging a little deeper, I'd imagine that just about every single bolt or screw has its own allowable tolerance and there is no one size fits all, but I want to stay general just for a moment longer...assuming published torque settings have a tolerance, generally speaking are we talking about a couple % either side of nominal or are torque setting tolerances measured even tighter, say a quarter of a % high and low of nominal?
       
      To continue the previous example in a bit more detail, let's say the oil drain plug wants 39 ft./lbs. +/- 3.9 ft./lbs. In this case the tolerance would be 10% of the nominal value. I'm just making up numbers now to tease out the point.
       
      Here's the deal...if I set my crappy torque wrench that has a published accuracy range of +/-4%, and I set it to 39 ft./lbs, and I use it with good technique I will hear the "click" as low as....well wait a second...we have to first understand what +/-4% actually means. 4% of what???
       
      So here's a little more detail.
      If I have 3/8" TW with a published range of 10-80ft./lbs., the actual range of the tool is 70. The accuracy is +/-4% of 70. This yields an accuracy of 2.8 ft/lbs. So going back to my previous example when I heard the "click", the actual torque applied to the oil plug was as low as 36.2 ft/lbs. and as high as 41.8 ft/lbs. Considering, again from my made up numbers from above, the oil plug has an allowable tolerance of 3.9 ft/lbs. the true range of acceptability is 35.1-42.9 ft/lbs. If this were all true, my crappy torque wrench is not so crappy after all as I hit the tolerance pretty well; I'm right in there.
       
      So first, is my logic correct?
      Second, what is a good general rule of thumb for specified torque tolerance, 1%? 10%? Yes I know some things are more sensitive than others, but rule of thumb here...
      Third, are the torque settings that are published, published with a tolerance? If not, what is the rule of thumb for those?
       
      Ultimately, this conversion, and understanding the math and data can effectively help you save a TON of money on buying your next torque wrench. Do you need to pay for 2% accuracy or is 4% just fine?
       
      Thoughts please!
      Happy Holidays to all!!
       
      Adam
       
       
       
       
    • By royp4
      I am posting this hoping it will benefit someone. I have a 2003 996 c2 cab. Recently the brake lights went out. After screwing with the brake pedal switch, I discovered that it needed to be replaced. Manually depressing switch with my finger showed that this was an intermittent problem. The interesting part of this is that I found that when the switch went out, neither the hazard flashers nor the cruise control would work. After replacing the switch, all these problems resolved. The switch is in a hard to reach location {of course}. While I could visualize the switch by lying on my back in the driver's side footwell, I had no room to manipulate. After a couple of hours of frustration and cursing, I found that I could manipulate and change the switch by sitting in the driver's seat and blindly removing and replacing the switch.
    • By nwGTS
      Hi all,
       
      Does anyone have the torque settings for the suspension bits on the 997.2?  Bits to carrier, bits to body, bits to cross member, bits to bits.. including the sway/stabilizer bars? 
      I'm replacing stabilizer, control arms, tie rods, springs, toe arms etc and need to know how much muscle to put on them.
       
      Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.