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I'm new to the Porsche family.... Just over a month and the proud owner of a 1999 Boxster. It's a project car but still on the road and my point to point ride. Must say, LOVE to drive this car....This one has been lowered some, well alot... and does it hug the road..... Just doesn't miss much being that low.... My question is, I am having an issue with the rear lights on this car... I know I had a problem with the left rear brake light. I tried tracing back the wire but found no problem... I then switched the lamp holder from the right side to the left and all the lights worked... So I thought I had an equipment issue. I bought a (Porsche) replacement bulb holder. Came in last night. Changed out today...Guess what???? Turn indicators work, Backup lights work, Brake light works on the Right Side ONLY, (still) Now no rear tail lights what so ever......I have checked ALL the fuses, only had to replace one and it had nothing to do with the lights. NOTHING has changed....Where did my tail lights go?????? Can't figure this out.......Please help.......Just FYI, ALL the LIGHTS were working as of last Wed. when I did the bulb holder swap and checking the lights. Power is to both wire harnesses. Everything else works except the left brake light and the drive lights. Go figure.......
For some reason my front drivers side speaker was going in and out then cut out completely. As a result I swapped out the speaker with another 4" speaker. I kept the existing plug and cut everything else out. I used the ring from the original to hold it down, but I cut small slots for the new speakers feet. Here are the photos but I did not make many notes.
After I install the speaker I noticed that it did not work but did work with volume turned up high. I tested it with the other front jack before soldering it all together. I also add a dab of plastic glue on sides since there was no screw. I had a hack saw but did not use it. The mini dremel was cool.
It might be worth noting that the red and yellow wires on the head unit needed to be reversed despite the diagram. Just look at the Crutchfield website and you will see it. I also swapped out the radio. I am going to sell it. It was a CDR-210. I am suspecting that my problem is the amp and that particular channel. Forgive the pictures I had shared it on my Facebook Story lol ?
By Kevin Bryck
Okay this is REALLY specific.
The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Right cable threaded into frame at top
Missing cable location
Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
I'm new to this website. Here is a question:
I have a 1998 Boxster 2.5 Tiptronic. I just had a new key programmed at dealership ( the old key fob newer worked). With new key fob, all doors (including gas) lock and unlock appropriately. However, when pressing the button to open the rear trunk lid, the lid doesn't move and the rear lock actuator/solenoid is silent. I disconnected the actuator from the car (separating the plastic connector) and using a 9v battery, made the actuator ( and lock) open and close. So I believe the problem is not the actuator. I also connected a volt meter to the two wires that connect from the car to the actuator, then pressed the fob button, and no voltage was recorded. However, the red light on the fob and the red light on the dash near the windshield did light up
So i believe the problem lies in the electrical system somewhere between the actuator and the fob. Any ideas on how to test the wiring running from the trunk lock actuator to the CLU? immobilizer? or wherever it goes? Or should I be spending my time evaluating the CLU? immobilizer? ??
Thanks for any advise!
I just bought myself my first Porsche, a 1998 Boxster. I have an issue with the soft top that I'd like to get some guidance on.
The top goes down smoothly with no issues. It also comes up smoothly until it is nearly all the way up. Just before the dashboard Top light goes out, there is a pretty sharp metallic twang or snap. It did this when I was looking at the car before purchase, and it did it again this evening when I put the top up after driving the car home. I'm assuming it's getting caught on something but I wonder if anyone might have suggestions on what to look at given the late point in the cycle where it occurs?