Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

The convertible top on my Boxster has a verticle tear close to the seam. I'd like to replace it with a Porsche part, but my local dealer quoted $3200 just for the part (labor not included). That seems outrageous, since the OEM part seems to be available on-line for less than $1000. I don't want to attempt the labor myself. Any advice is appreciated. post-82495-0-27189300-1341857421_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

The best option, which also involves minimal labor, is to replace the entire top with a used OEM convertible top and frame from a 2003 or 2004 Boxster. Since your Boxster is a 2001, it would take less than an hour to swap the tops.

Here are instructions and the pros and cons of doing the conversion: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97

As mentioned in the DIY, search on car-part.com for tops.

Regards, Maurice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Sea_Galley
      1999 986 2.5 Boxster. (5 spd)
       
      Not many problems with the car but cruise control doesn’t work and the spoiler only extends halfway or so.
       
      Current actual problem with the car is that I  can feel vibration or shaking in the steering wheel (and in the car to a much lesser extent) after shifting into fourth gear. After shifting into fourth gear, the shaking seems to persist even as I slow down, or after shifting into fifth. It will persist even if I shift into neutral but will stop after I come to a stop.
       
      It’s strange to me that this is the case when gears 1-3 don’t have this problem. I am guessing that it’s an issue with bearings or alignment in the front wheels since i’m feeling the vibrations in the wheel but hopefully someone here has a better idea.
    • By Garra671
      Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after.    Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has?
       
      Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V?     True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle.    Thanks in advance 
    • By nightrn1
      I'm new to the Porsche family.... Just over a month and the proud owner of a 1999 Boxster.  It's a project car but still on the road and my point to point ride.  Must say, LOVE to drive this car....This one has  been lowered some, well alot... and does it hug the road..... Just doesn't miss much being that low....  My question is, I am having an issue with the rear lights on this car...  I know I had a problem with the left rear brake light.  I tried tracing back the wire but found no problem... I then switched the lamp holder from the right side to the left and all the lights worked... So I thought I had an equipment issue.  I bought a (Porsche) replacement bulb holder.  Came in last night.  Changed out today...Guess what????  Turn indicators work, Backup lights work,  Brake light works on the Right Side ONLY, (still) Now no rear tail lights what so ever......I have checked ALL the fuses, only had to replace one and it had nothing to do with the lights.  NOTHING has changed....Where did my tail lights go??????  Can't figure this out.......Please help.......Just FYI,  ALL the LIGHTS were working as of last Wed. when I did the bulb holder swap and checking the lights.  Power is to both wire harnesses.   Everything else works except the left brake light and the drive lights.  Go figure.......
    • By ninedragons986
      For some reason my front drivers side speaker was going in and out then cut out completely. As a result I swapped out the speaker with another 4" speaker.  I kept the existing plug and cut everything else out. I used the ring from the original to hold it down, but I cut small slots for the new speakers feet. Here are the photos but I did not make many notes. 

      After I install the speaker I noticed that it did not work but did work with volume turned up high. I tested it with the other front jack before soldering it all together. I also add a dab of plastic glue on sides since there was no screw.   I had a hack saw but did not use it. The mini dremel was cool.

      It might be worth noting that the red and yellow wires on the head unit needed to be reversed despite the diagram. Just look at the Crutchfield website and you will see it. I also swapped out the radio. I am going to sell it. It was a CDR-210. I am suspecting  that my problem is the amp and that particular channel.  Forgive the pictures I had shared it on my Facebook Story lol ?



    • By Kevin Bryck
      Okay this is REALLY specific.
      The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball.
      The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side?
      Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found.
      Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame?
       
      Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do?
      Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder.
      Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft.
      Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm.
      Right cable threaded into frame at top
      Right cable threaded into frame at top
      Missing cable location
      Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in
      Left cable
      Left upper cable end with 8mm thread
      Clip question
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.