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changing the oil in a 996 while the car is on an incline


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I was wondering if there was anything specific in the mechanics manual for the 996 that says the car should be completely level/flat (eg. 0 degree incline) when doing an oil change. I'm about to do my first DIY oil change on this car since getting it. I'm guess it would be best to have the vehicle completely level, however, that said, I was wondering what the caveats are, if any, to having the vehicle on an incline while I do the oil change.

I recently purchased some "rhinoramps" since ramps seemed to be more convenient and practical for my needs vs. jack stands. Obviously one consequence of using ramps is that when I work on the car, it's a bit tilted.

I saw some related posts -- users who thought changing their oil on an incline caused some old oil to stay in the engine as they measured by how much new oil they put in the engine after the change -- however, the consensus I took away from that seemed to indicate an incline was ok.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Edited by ferrugia
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You risk not getting all the old fluid out of the sump. I would use jack stand to support the vehicle equally at all four corners to keep it level and have access underneath.

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Should not be a problem -- just let the oil drain for a long time. Also remove the filter and let it drain a long time. I let mine drain for a couple of hours. Even after a hour you still get oil. Lots of crooks and crannies in the 996 engine. Good luck.

Chuck

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My car is low enough that I can't fit my drain pan under it. I back the rear wheels onto a couple of pieces of 2x12 on each side that raise it up just enough to clear the pan. With this low angle you might get a little oil left in the pan, but hen there is some oil throughout the engine that does not drain. On Dino ramps the angle is steep enough to hold more oil in the pan, but not a big deal.

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Thanks for the response, guys.

i know that jack stands would be the best....I was basically just wondering if I could be lazy and get away without having to use them :) I know it's kind of the easy, sloppier way but since I only need to be under the car for such a short period of time for an oil change anyway, I'm trying to cheat.....

Otherwise I'm going to see if I can get Loren to do it like in the first response to this post:

http://www.renntech....-on-jackstands/

:)

That's a long DIY thread, 5+ pages... however, you can see there's a lot of disagreement about the proper way to jack up and hold a car. you can see that after the accident on page 4, they are now recommending that you replace your engine mounts first if your car has over 90k, etc. pretty scary what happened there actually.

So all that said, I may try the oil change with the car on a slight incline.... since I change my oil often (~5K miles), I don't think it would be the end of the world if some old oil stays in the sump....as long as it's not much.

Thanks very much for your input.

Edited by ferrugia
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I change the oil on my 996 by backing up onto 2 - 2 x 10 boards. It gives enough clearance to drain oil and change the filter without putting the car at an angle where oil will be trapped.

I have jack stands and ramps - but this is much easier than fooling with either of those.

post-1-0-59205200-1343574683_thumb.jpg

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Thanks guys, all very good input from all responders. I think I will take a page from Loren and Dharn's book and go with the "board" method, allowing me to be both lazy and able to keep the car level.

Thanks again.

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You are over thinking this! Shop for a shorter (lower) drain pan that will hold at least 10 QTS, and then:

1) Jack up left rear side of car (or right side depending on your garage layout)

2) Place jack stand under frame in case of jack failure

3) Slide drain pan under sump drain plug

4) Loosen plug and let oil start to drain, make sure pan is centered

5) Remove jack stand and slowly lower car over the drain pan

6) Go have a beer, then another one

7) Stand back, admire your car

8) Go take a nap (or take 30 minutes and polish your headlights/wheels)

9) Repeat steps 1 & 2

10) Reinstall drain plug with new washer, torque to spec, change filter

11) Lower car, refill with oil, fire it up and go for a spectacular drive!

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I changed the oil yesterday using the "board" method and it took under 10 mins (not counting drain wait time). No ramps, jack, or jack stands needed. Very effortless -- exactly the advice I was looking for.

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+1 on the board setup and beer. Just changed my oil this weekend using this setup. One question: i did not have a new aluminum washer so i reused the old one. No leaks yet. Anyone know where we can buy these in bulk?

Porsche has used this sealing washer for years.... I remember when a dealer would just hand your a handfull...

900-123-106-30 Sealing washer 18 x 24 -- US MSRP $1.39 each

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  • 4 months later...

I took Loren's 2x10 (or are they 2x12's ?? ) method but have 4 separate boards,(doubled up) that is, I cut a long board into 8 different sections , then used recessed bolts and Gorilla glue to fasten 2 of them together. Each is about 2 feet long , and the front is cut on an angle so the tires rollup easy, they work great, and take up less room for storage. What do you think Loren ?

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