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I guess both are not "dead vertical" simultaneously. If Left is dead vertical (locking tool sitting properly), the right one is a little off. If I then rotate pulley by 360deg and then lock it - right is dead vertical and left is a little bit off.

When I say it is a little off, it is only a guess - because if I look or just hold the tool by hand, it feels vertically aligned but when I try to fasten the tool it slips out at the end.

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so this is before loosening the chain tensioner or removing the bearing flange. The car was running fine till i pulled it in for this job.

Is it even possible that I manage to get the cams out of timing while removing transmission/flywheel etc...?

Or is it possible to have the engine running ok with the timing off? Is there a tolerable margin on that?

too bad i forgot to get a reading on the timing using my durametric before starting.

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The cam deviation specs are +/- 6. We have seen engines that seemed realtively fine that were as much as +/- 8-9, but they needed to be looked at to find out why (parts wear, bad position sensors, VarioCam issues, etc.).

When the engine is locked at TDC, the slot on the cam on both banks should look like this (ignore the comment in the upper right of the photo, it concerned inserting the P253 cam timing tool so the cam cover could be removed, which was a bad ides in the first place because it is not the correct tool for the job):

548298d1309402705-issue-with-p253-camshaft-timing-tool-101_0634-low.jpg

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Here is a cleaner photo of the slots in a three chain motor, and with the locking tool in place. The slots have to be in line with the cam cover parting line for the tool to seat correctly:

Pic136.jpgPic137.jpg

Pic133.jpg

Edited by JFP in PA

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So the LN instructions that I received along with the kit are slightly updated (Rev14 June12) than the one JFP linked to. I have attached the scanned copy here and hope LN does not have issues with that.

Its talking about locking cam on bank-1 ONLY. So i guess my concern about not being able to lock both cams while pulley locked in TDC compression was unnecessary. This fine DIYarticle by "insite" also mentions "Engine @ TDC compression for aligning timing marks on bank-1 and TDC-exhaust for aligning timing marks on bank-2". Let me know if I am missing something here.

To summarize, here's what I did:

1) Lock engine at TDC compression (notch on intake cam on bank-1 pointing roughly outwards)

2) lock cam on bank-1 (drive belt side) using the 5-chain lock (shorter one)

3) used a little shim and MODIFIED longer-cam lock from the LN kit to "kinda lock" cam-2 as well at a slight angle. (although this wasnt required as per the new instructions from LN)

4) Removed all three chain tensioners (the new instructions makes the removal of the third chain tensioner optional)

5) Removed the old bearing using the LN removal tool and it came out without too much fuss. yay! :)

Now I have some trouble getting the new bearing in. Most procedures say light tapping will do it but not in my case. Did freeze the bearing with install tool overnight but it still wont go in.

Is my attempt to lock the bank-2 cam as well causing some unwanted tension? should I take that out?

The intermediate shaft does not appear completely centered and I wonder if thats the reason why the new bearing wont go in easily?

post-40550-0-28712200-1347827516_thumb.j

IMS install procedure.pdf

Edited by hucqym

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Alright! so finally closing in on this task! :)

Managed to get the bearing in (had to use a regular hammer instead of the deadblow mallet and it went in like butter). Engine buttoned up and timing checked by manually rotating and using cam lock to verify alignment. All looks perfectly lined up. yay! keeping fingers crossed till I can get to fire it up!

Now the tranny is back in and I am struggling a bit with the slave cylinder installation. I had left it tied up still hooked to the fluid line and now it is a struggle getting it all the way in to bolt it back up.

It measures about 64mm from the edge of the plastic sleeve to the tip of the pin, when idle. I can push it in smoothly by hand as shown. Is it just a matter of struggling and seating it back in or am I going to have to open bleeder valve and then do the bleeding work etc...

Would much like to avoid that task now if possible since I am in a little hurry.

post-40550-0-71698200-1351189280_thumb.j

post-40550-0-53123700-1351189427_thumb.j

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Without the bleeder valve open, the rod will keep pushing out and that will make it very difficult to get it back in position to bolt it in place.

If you don't want to open the bleeder valve (and then have to bleed the system, etc...), you can wire it in the depressed position.

Take a small flat disc (think of a something like a bottle cap)and drill a hole on two sides, then attach a short length of wire to each side and tie it around the sides of the base while the rod is depressed . Then install the slave cylinder. After you have it bolted in place, cut and remove the two wires and the "cap".

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanks Maurice. Sounds like going the bleeding route is the cleaner/easier route.

So I'll

-> attach a drain pipe on the bleeder and open the valve,

-> push back the pin (hopefully now it will stick there).

-> install and bolt the slave cylinder.

-> Close the valve. attach the power bleeder with fresh fluid in it, pressurize and then open the bleeder valve again to get all air out,

correct?

Edited by hucqym

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That sequence is correct.

Whenever there is a possibility that air was introduced into the system, I like to bleed the entire system, including the bleeder valves at each of the brake calipers.

If you just bleed the clutch, you should be able to tell whether there is any air in the system when you step on the brakes. If the pedal feels "spongy", you will know that you have the to bleed the entire system.

Regards, Maurice.

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