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I've got a 2008 997 C4 w/ 56k miles on it. It was cold this morning (30 degrees F) and I noticed clutch slip for the first time since I bought the car in higher gears under full throttle. The clutch pedal feels very mushy and lost alot of its spring on the return. I stopped by my local shop and he confirmed its the clutch.
The car is my daily driver but I do autocross about once a month and intend to track in the future. I told myself I'd get the light weight flywheel when its time to replace the clutch, and so it seems that time has come. I'm not adverse to the extra noise of the LWFW, but I've heard that you shouldn't do this mod on a C4. I see sharkwerks has a C4 project car with the LWFW so I assume it worked out, but who knows.
Aside from the flywheel obviously I need a clutch. I've been looking at the Sachs stage 2.5 performance clutch kit, and it seems like a good option. I've also heard that the BBI clutch slave cylinder is an upgrade that would be helpful for clutch performance and feel.
-Anyone have any experience with a LWFW on a C4?
-Anyone have any experience with the Sach's stage 2.5 kit on a C4?
-Any other clutch kit recommendations?
-Anyone have any experience with replacing the clutch slave cylinder?
Note: I'm going to get my IMS bearing inspected but if its not leaking I think I'm going to pass, seeing how I have 56k miles on it with no issues. Perhaps its past the infant mortality stage?
The left door key switch on my 00’ 996 c4 will not lock or unlock. I took the handle and bracket out of the door frame. I was told what usually breaks is the cylinder but nothing appears to be broken. I don’t want to buy a new key so simply replacing the bracket isn’t an option. Is there a straight forward solution or do I need a specialist??
Any my feedback would be much appreciated thanks!
I have a 2004 Cayenne S. I just got it recently, interior lights have never worked. I checked the fuse and it was blown. It calls for a 20 amp fuse but the blown one in it was a 25 amp. I had the key in the ignition if I remember correctly and put the new 20 amp fuse in and everything came on. Side note, I noticed a weird glitch with the light above the rear passenger side door and the switch on the main map reading light. The interior lights had gone off and I turned the back on and the backlight above to passenger side door was very dim. I slid the switch on the overhead console for the main map light and the rear light came back to full strength. I found that odd. Everything then worked fine. I took the key out. Next time I put the key in, immediately heard the fuse blow. Any ideas on where to start?
By el greggo
Planning to replace the gauge cluster in a 2010 GTS with a Turbo gauge cluster and have a few questions. In researching this swap, I found some references in the archives to swaps done as far back as 2006 or so, but no answers to the questions below. I did a test fitment this past weekend and planning to do a permanent swap in the coming weeks when mileage on both clusters is the same (or within 10 miles or so!)
In the settings on the Turbo cluster, COMFORT is in all caps and subsequent menus overlap in all caps. It appears setting can be set. Does this quirk affect usage at all? Is it possible/simple to swap the clock set button + trip mileage reset button? On the Turbo cluster the clock is half worn off, but on my GTS cluster it is perfect. I would like to keep the better looking clock set button if possible/simple. Any possibility of swapping in voltmeter on Turbo cluster? I know the gauge front is one big piece and may be tough to get right, but more wondering if the electronics are there and would be plug-and-play behind since the wiring sends the battery/electrical volt data to the cluster. (clearly I am not an electrical engineer!) If question 3 is an absolute NO, then how do you Turbo owners know how many volts your battery/electrical system is putting out (without the use of a radar detector that can tell you)?
Thanks for reading this far, and thanks in advance for any useful responses to my queries above.
2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time?
Thanks in advance.