Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Andymuir

Help! Changed clutch but now pedal is floppy

Recommended Posts

2000, C4 Cab

Help! I was just patting myself on the back after getting the transmission back in and only had the sway bar and wheels to refit. Decided to check the clutch felt right and unfortunately it doesn't. The pedal is really soft and the clutch doesnt disengage.

I didn't open any hydraulic lines but could this just be air? Or do I need to drop the transmission again to check what's wrong inside?

If I take the slave cycliner off can I gently press the clutch pedal to see if it drives the slave?

As far as I can tell everything went back together OK so I'm stuck...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Try bleeding the slave first, it you somehow got air into it, that should clear it. If it does not do it, the problem lies deeper...........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It may also be that the slave cylinder push rod is not in the correct position of the fork, anyway, this is only visible after removing the slave cylinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dropping the transaxle was not all that difficult. I made up an engine support from some heavy aluminium channel I had. All four of the bolts holding the sway bar (anti roll bar) to the rear subframes sheared and drilling them out took a lot of patience. I disconnected the drive shafts at the flanges. I'm not sure if that's the recommended way but it was simple enough. I supported the transaxle on a floor jack with timber blocks to lift it high enough. Mines a C4 so I had to dissconnect and remove the drive shaft to the front wheels as well. The support bracket for the front of the transaxle wouldn't come off over the drive flange so it stayed there loose until the transaxle was most of the way out. I was able to reach all of the bell housing bolts with a mixture of 1/2" and 3/8" drive sockets and for the one at the top a combination spanner. Depending on the year you need the right size spline bit for one of the bolts.

I've lowered a couple of gearboxed before by basically lying under the box and letting it rest on my chest then kind of rolling it off. DON'T try this with the Carrera as the transaxle is really heavy!

I used two floor jacks, some levers and lots of timber blocks. A transmission jack might have made things easier but then I'd have needed the car up higher which would make getting at the bell housing bolts more difficult.

The problem I had meant that I had to drop the transaxle trwice. Second time was really straight forward, about 2 hours down and 2 hours back up.

I hate to admit it but I had put the clutch plate in backwards! I think the thing with the engine at the wrong end of the car threw me off!

All back together now and going fine.

Made my first attempt at a donut the other day and the new clutch worked a treat!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By gary_cs
      The left door key switch on my 00’ 996 c4 will not lock or unlock. I took the handle and bracket out of the door frame. I was told what usually breaks is the cylinder but nothing appears to be broken. I don’t want to buy a new key so simply replacing the bracket isn’t an option. Is there a straight forward solution or do I need a specialist??
       
      Any my feedback would be much appreciated thanks!
       
    • By Nicky_Noodle
      I have a 2004 Cayenne S. I just got it recently, interior lights have never worked. I checked the fuse and it was blown. It calls for a 20 amp fuse but the blown one in it was a 25 amp. I had the key in the ignition if I remember correctly and put the new 20 amp fuse in and everything came on. Side note, I noticed a weird glitch with the light above the rear passenger side door and the switch on the main map reading light. The interior lights had gone off and I turned the back on and the backlight above to passenger side door was very dim. I slid the switch on the overhead console for the main map light and the rear light came back to full strength. I found that odd. Everything then worked fine. I took the key out. Next time I put the key in, immediately heard the fuse blow. Any ideas on where to start?
    • By el greggo
      Hello all
       
      Planning to replace the gauge cluster in a 2010 GTS with a Turbo gauge cluster and have a few questions.  In researching this swap, I found some references in the archives to swaps done as far back as 2006 or so, but no answers to the questions below.  I did a test fitment this past weekend and planning to do a permanent swap in the coming weeks when mileage on both clusters is the same (or within 10 miles or so!)
       
      In the settings on the Turbo cluster, COMFORT is in all caps and subsequent menus overlap in all caps.  It appears setting can be set.  Does this quirk affect usage at all? Is it possible/simple to swap the clock set button + trip mileage reset button?  On the Turbo cluster the clock is half worn off, but on my GTS cluster it is perfect.  I would like to keep the better looking clock set button if possible/simple. Any possibility of swapping in voltmeter on Turbo cluster?  I know the gauge front is one big piece and may be tough to get right, but more wondering if the electronics are there and would be plug-and-play behind since the wiring sends the battery/electrical volt data to the cluster. (clearly I am not an electrical engineer!) If question 3 is an absolute NO, then how do you Turbo owners know how many volts your battery/electrical system is putting out (without the use of a radar detector that can tell you)?  
      Thanks for reading this far, and thanks in advance for any useful responses to my queries above.
       
      el greggo
    • By Uwon
      2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time? 
      Thoughts?
      Thanks in advance.
      Johan
    • By CHARLES KORN
      Can the standard 2001 Boxster Roadster 2.7 L Porsche clutch friction disk be installed backwards?  If so what feature faces the forward (towards motor) direction?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.