Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

I have recently heard that there is an upgrade tiptronic gearbox oil/fluid available in the market which should give a better response for the Tip box. Does this really work? Have anyone tried before?

I am interested to learn as I have realized that the tip at high revs seems not responding as good when compares to mid to low range revs.

Thx

Edited by eso1968
Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

"sport" mode increases the shifting pressure in the tip, maybe this is what should have ( I don't have sport Chrono on mine)

Pressing the Sport Chrono switch when the gearshift lever is in shift gate “D”

boosts the basic gear-changing map. This ups the engine speeds for gearchanging

and renders gear-changing sportier by shortening the shifting times.

The reduction in shifting times results from faster filling of the clutches with

oil (response time) and a higher oil pressure level when performing the shift

operation. These measures lend the shift operations a more dynamic and

noticeably sportier character. The shift points are then adjusted between this

boosted basic gear-changing map and the sport gear-changing map according

to the present driving style. System downshifts are initiated at lower

acceleration and higher speeds (in comparison with when the Sport Chrono

switch is off) to increase agility.

Link to post
Share on other sites

"sport" mode increases the shifting pressure in the tip, maybe this is what should have ( I don't have sport Chrono on mine)

Pressing the Sport Chrono switch when the gearshift lever is in shift gate “D”

boosts the basic gear-changing map. This ups the engine speeds for gearchanging

and renders gear-changing sportier by shortening the shifting times.

The reduction in shifting times results from faster filling of the clutches with

oil (response time) and a higher oil pressure level when performing the shift

operation. These measures lend the shift operations a more dynamic and

noticeably sportier character. The shift points are then adjusted between this

boosted basic gear-changing map and the sport gear-changing map according

to the present driving style. System downshifts are initiated at lower

acceleration and higher speeds (in comparison with when the Sport Chrono

switch is off) to increase agility.

Thanks for your info. In this case, I think I better stick with the OEM oil. Possibly change the oil during my next service which should improve the performance.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By LuckyBoy
      Instrument cluster completely dark and gauges not moving.

      How to save $5000 in 3 easy steps.

      2002 Boxster S

      41,000 mile

      Tiptronic

      Here is my story, the problem AND THE SOLUTION.

      My story:

      I have a 2002 Boxster S which was sitting for approximately 6 months unused. As you might expect the battery was dead when I went to use it. It was easy to jump with a portable jumper starter. The car started right up and it was easy to drive. However, when I stopped to get gas, the dashboard instrument cluster went crazy and all the idiot lights came on. Even though I had driven the car for about a half-hour the battery was dead, so being prepared, I use my portable jumper starter. The car started up fine, however all the idiots lights stayed on. The instrument cluster otherwise worked. Drove home, left the doors slightly open so that I would not get locked out, and open the hood so I could get to the battery, then turned off the car. Shortly thereafter drove to get a battery, but now all the idiot lights were on and the instrument cluster was completely dark. Gauges were not moving. Nothing! The battery was replaced while the car was off. After restarting with a new battery, the gauges were not moving, the instrument cluster was dark and now only the check engine/oil pressure idiot light was on. Drove home and turned the car off. However, the check engine/oil pressure idiot light stayed on, even though the car was off. I asked my local mechanic who recommended, "Just take it to Porsche". So I called the Porsche dealer, who could not take the car for a week, but figured it needed a new instrument cluster and after diagnosing fees and the all the other fees and costs would be a few thousand dollars. So, I decided to search the web. I did not find an example exactly like mine, but after my research it seemed that the main computer might have been confused by too many low-voltage signals since the battery was weak. I was sure there had been no overvoltage situations or sparks. I had little to lose, so I thought I'd try the following which worked!

      The solution:

      Tools needed: 10 mm socket wrench and portable jumper starter.

      Step 1:

      Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench.

      Step 2:

      Wait overnight.

      Step 3:

      Reconnect the negative (black) cable to the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench.

      If needed use the portable jumper starter to start the car.

      Step 4:

      Smile and save $5000.

      The instrument cluster is working perfectly and all the idiot lights are off, even the radio works! Hope this helps someone else!

    • By Jrfishel1
      I have a 2003 Boxster base model (2.7) with auto. Current showing code P0600 and DTE 61. Had a few different Porsche mechanics look at the issue and have not found a solution.  Cleaned the electrical connection at the transmission and verified the ground connections at the tiptronic control module. Had the DME, tiptronic module and immobilizer checked and they were found to be working.
       
      Does the Can-bus connection between the DME and the tiptronic module extend to the immobilizer or other modules? All I could find is information up to the 2001 model year.
       
      Looking for a reason why the DME Is not communicating with the tiptronic and how to test the Can-bus circuit.  Is there a wiring schematic available for the 2003/2004 boxster?
       
      Thanks,
       
      jason
    • By Garra671
      Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays).   The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF.

      I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving.  

      Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today.

      However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄


      Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor?    Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor)   

      THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
    • By Bardia Manafi
      Hi all, just purchased a 1961 notchback 1600s, I have never drove a Porsche until the day I purchased this car, got the bug now and i love Porsches more than ever now, the car is in very good shape, but i want to change all the fluids, grease all the parts, and do all the maintenance there is, the oil was so dark when I checked the level and it was all the way to max line of the stick, i would appreciate if you guys can tell me where to buy all the maintenance parts, and where can I buy the shop manual, and what are the things I should do, there is a small leak on the floor from engine very small, but a palm size of oil from transmission on the ground,  thanks guys cheers😁

    • By crwarren11
      Hi all,
      2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi.  I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled.  I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission:

      I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven.  Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual.
       
      Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve.  The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before.  I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification).  The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. 
       
      I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful.  I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing.
       
      Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections?
       
      Many thanks for your input!
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.