Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses
Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help... THANK YOU!
Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
Can the 2001 behind the dash wire harness work with the 2003 harnesses including 3.6L engine, engine harness, rear harness, dme 7.8, immobilizer, etc
This is a swapped 3.6 car that was functioning properly in an earlier 2001 race car. Had to Retub the car and move all the harnesses to donor 2001 chassis. Moved everything except the wire harness behind the dash.
The car starts and functions except water temp gauge on the 2003 cluster connected to the 2001 wire harness behind the dash. Also durametric recognized the cluster as an earlier cluster and not the k21 (3.6l) cluster.
Any help will be appreciated.
Hi everyone. My 2006 Boxster S suddenly started making a squealing noise. Noise goes away at higher RPM, only to come back at lower RPM and at idle. Not related to gear or clutching at all. Noise seems loudest at the rear of the car; I can hardly hear it inside with the windows closed. Is this a serpentine belt issue? Or the bearing of some engine accessory? I have 50,000 miles, and have already changed the serpentine belt once, around 4-5 years ago, just due to age of the car. I have not yet had the time to open up the engine compartment to look further. If it's a belt, then I would expect more noise from inside the cabin, would I not? I have attached a recording indicating the squeal going away when I rev the engine.
Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after. Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has?
Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V? True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle. Thanks in advance
By Michael hurta
Hi - 2002 996: Scoured the lists but can't find this particular cluster problem anywhere. In short, my salvage cluster shows a list of errors on start up but my original was fine.... Here's the details. My current cluster shows an intermittent airbag failure warning on the led screen followed by the idiot light. It usually occurs at start up, clears at the stalk and the idiot light remains on, but flickers on occasion. My mechanic had ruled out everything he could related to the airbag warnings and since he didn't have a spare cluster, couldn't swap to test for that. I personally purchased a salvage cluster, removed the battery terminals, installed it and it came to life (I'm also having to buy replacement connector housings because mine disintegrated). The problem is the info screen pretty much scrolled through a variety of issues like oil pressure feedback, temp feedback, fuel feedback, etc. The oil pressure gage was also unresponsive. I expected the odometer to be wrong, but didn't expect all the errors. I also started the car and while it ran, it did run rough, sputtered a bit. Do I have a bad salvaged cluster? Does the cluster need to be programmed (beside the odometer)?
2002 Carrera 4S. I did a search and didn't see these exact symptoms simultaneously.
See attached picture. I was driving at 5k RPM in 3rd when the power of the car was suddenly reduced (by the computer I believe) and the console beeped displaying the following 4 checks: 1. Brake distribution 2. PSM failure 3. ABS failure 4. Battery -- also, as you can see in the pic, the battery voltage meter is maxing out. When I disengage the clutch from the engine the voltage drops some (and the brake/PSM/ABS messages go away and are temporarily ok) but is still running significantly higher than what I'm used to seeing. Could this high voltage be damaging to the electronics system? Presumably there's something going on with the voltage regulator. Does the ABS/PSM turn off automatically for saftey when there are voltage spikes?
My battery is an Interstate and is ~ 1yr old. This seems to me like the alternator (possibly the voltage regulator). I realize it would be better if I had a Durametric to hook it up to and get the exact error codes off of. That may need to be done to properly diagnose what's going on here.
Thanks in advance for any help/input.